2011 Traverse Air Conditioner issues...

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Mar 14, 2014
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253
Location
The Rockies
I'm not having the best luck with AC these days.... The AC in my Traverse didn't want to wake up and work this spring. The AC light flashes 3 times and the compressor does not come on. Adding a little bit of refrigerant got it up in the 'green' with the crude gauge from the store. So I had a friend hook to both the high and low sides and it measured no pressure at all. Fuses and relays are fine. I replaced a pressure sensor near compressor recently too. I'm assuming there's a leak somewhere at this point. But adding refrigerant didn't wake up the compressor.
 
Yeah it's leaking and i wouldn't bother with stop leak either unless it's something that's going to the junk yard in a year but i assume this one is nice enough to do proper work on it.
 
Is the compressor turning on?? The system may have a major leak and just adding refridgerant is a waste of time. A vacuum pump needs to be used as a start to verify a leak in the system. A sniffer then can be used to locate the exact leak source. Many times a leak source will present itself as an oily area.
 
I had a 2010 Traverse, same symptoms. I believe the rear evaporator was known to spring leaks. I took a gamble, shot some A/C Pro into it, and it held up for a few years before I got rid of that junker. If you shot some refrigerant in it but the gauges are still reading nada, then you've got a big leak.
 
I had a 2010 Traverse, same symptoms. I believe the rear evaporator was known to spring leaks. I took a gamble, shot some A/C Pro into it, and it held up for a few years before I got rid of that junker. If you shot some refrigerant in it but the gauges are still reading nada, then you've got a big leak.
I added some refrigerant and the gauge quickly got up into the 'green' but compressor never kicked on. I'm worried it could be the rear evaporator...
Is the compressor turning on?? The system may have a major leak and just adding refridgerant is a waste of time. A vacuum pump needs to be used as a start to verify a leak in the system. A sniffer then can be used to locate the exact leak source. Many times a leak source will present itself as an oily area.
Compressor hasn't kicked on since last summer. There were no obvious symptoms last summer. I've looked everywhere that I can see without digging too deep and don't see any obvious oily areas.
 
I added some refrigerant and the gauge quickly got up into the 'green' but compressor never kicked on. I'm worried it could be the rear evaporator...

Compressor hasn't kicked on since last summer. There were no obvious symptoms last summer. I've looked everywhere that I can see without digging too deep and don't see any obvious oily areas.
Did you try jumping the load side of the AC relay to see if the compressor can turn on? If you filled the system with refrigerant, the compressor should come on unless you have an electrical problem somewhere. You may not be getting a power or a ground on the control side of the relay to activate the relay.
 
Those often have leaky hoses. I have replaced many.
I haven't seen anything obvious, but I'll keep checking.
Did you try jumping the load side of the AC relay to see if the compressor can turn on? If you filled the system with refrigerant, the compressor should come on unless you have an electrical problem somewhere. You may not be getting a power or a ground on the control side of the relay to activate the relay.
Forgive my ignorance.... but you can jump it from the actual relay?
 
I haven't seen anything obvious, but I'll keep checking.

Forgive my ignorance.... but you can jump it from the actual relay?
You can pull the relay out and jump the two load side pins which are typically pins 30 & 87. This is key on, engine off. But you have to make sure you are jumping the correct pins or you can do some damage. There is usually a diagram on the side of the relay which tells you which pins are what if you know how to read it. If you jump those pins and the compressor clutch activates, you know that the wiring from the relay to the compressor is good. If it doesn't, you either have a wiring problem to the compressor or the compressor is probably bad.
 
I'd refill the system with refrigerant that has a UV dye. Let it run until it won't run. Start looking for leaks.
 
The lines to the rear a/c evaporator coil are problematic over time as they are for any vehicle with this setup. Also if I recall correctly on this vintage of Traverse, copper particles emitted from the rear HVAC blower motor can embed into the rear evap core, causing corrosion and refrigerant leakage.

On a 2011, I'd look for a kit to block off of the rear a/c and just go with the front.
 
Those often have leaky hoses. I have replaced many.
I'd refill the system with refrigerant that has a UV dye. Let it run until it won't run. Start looking for leaks.
I haven't seen any obvious leaks looking around. I need to get some dye in there soon.
The lines to the rear a/c evaporator coil are problematic over time as they are for any vehicle with this setup. Also if I recall correctly on this vintage of Traverse, copper particles emitted from the rear HVAC blower motor can embed into the rear evap core, causing corrosion and refrigerant leakage.

On a 2011, I'd look for a kit to block off of the rear a/c and just go with the front.
The lines going to the rear look 'ok' as far as I can tell. If it's the rear evaporator I will be disappointed, but I will dig in there and replace it (and check actuators and stuff at the same time). I have a youngling that gets car-sick easy and so we need it good and cool back there.

So both ports haven't had caps on them as long as I've had it. I finally added some (should have done that a long time ago). I replaced the schrader valve on the low pressure port at least. Next step at the moment is to see if it will hold a vacuum (it was completely empty when I replaced the valve). If it doesn't hold a vacuum very well then I will suspect the rear evaporator. But start with the UV dye.

I appreciate the tips everyone! I'll post an update as I gain more information.
 
Look at the hoses that connect at the condenser. Those were a common repair for me. Are they dry or wet along the entire hose?
Thanks for the tip! That's been a tricky place to get a good look. I'll get my scope camera and check it out when I get a minute. Apparently it had dye in the system from the factory! Didn't realize that was a thing...

But latest update... my neighbor brought his gauges and vacuum pump over and it appeared to be holding a vacuum. We put some refrigerant in it and got it to wake up! I'm hoping that it at least gets us through the summer. I'm going to be on high alert though (probably for the rest of the time that I own it ... which ideally would be another 5 years... ). We'll see. Thanks again for the tips.
 
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