My parents just purchased a 2011 Honda CR-V with the 2.4 engine and automatic transmission. Does anyone know what Honda uses for factory fill, as the dealer stated you should run the oil monitor down to 0% on it. Also, anyone who has real life experiences with this engine/transmission I'd appreciate hearing them.
2011 Honda CR-V
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There is much talk that Honda uses a "break in oil" that may have a dose of Moly that is above the average oil these days.
For sure it is a 0W-20 in your 2011 or that is what they want you to put in there on your next oil change.
Honda and Many say "DO NOT!" drain that break in oil early. Geeesh that car has to be broken in by 1000 miles, no? I changed my 2009 CR-V to Mobil 1 @ 1000miles. No dire consequences have shown up to date.
For sure it is a 0W-20 in your 2011 or that is what they want you to put in there on your next oil change.
Honda and Many say "DO NOT!" drain that break in oil early. Geeesh that car has to be broken in by 1000 miles, no? I changed my 2009 CR-V to Mobil 1 @ 1000miles. No dire consequences have shown up to date.
The CRV has a great drivetrain and this vehicle should last for literally 300K miles plus, if not even longer.
This engine I would go at least 5K miles on the FF before changing out. Then the Mobil 1 Extended Performance will give you 10K mile changes.
This engine I would go at least 5K miles on the FF before changing out. Then the Mobil 1 Extended Performance will give you 10K mile changes.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
I've always liked the CRV. Maybe not the most refined little AWD, but reliable. I've driven a few. I wouldn't hesitate to use the OLM right from the get-go. I know that's what we did with our 2008 Odyssey. For the Ody, ours hasn't exceeded 7Kmi between OCIs. I believe Honda sets them with some cushion.
In regards to the trans. Coupled to a 4cyl, they last forever.
Joel
In regards to the trans. Coupled to a 4cyl, they last forever.
Joel
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Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
The CRV has a great drivetrain and this vehicle should last for literally 300K miles plus, if not even longer.
This engine I would go at least 5K miles on the FF before changing out. Then the Mobil 1 Extended Performance will give you 10K mile changes.
+1
The CRV has a great drivetrain and this vehicle should last for literally 300K miles plus, if not even longer.
This engine I would go at least 5K miles on the FF before changing out. Then the Mobil 1 Extended Performance will give you 10K mile changes.
+1
+2
The engine is fantastic and can easily go the distance the MM system will tell you on about any oil. Enjoy it. By the time you wear the drivetrain out you'll be shopping electric cars.
I did the first change on my '09 at 8700 miles. I have been using the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w-20 and she runs a lot smoother and starts up a ton better in the cold winter mornings. I do 7500 mile OCI which puts my OLM down to 30%. This car is super easy to do OC on too.
There is a great CR-V forum, with maintenance threads. From them I decided to do a drain and fill of the ATF every 15,000 miles on my CR-V. I get exactly 3 quarts out exactly and I just replaced it with that much. This is a quote from a CR-V forum, and is why I choose to do them at 15,000 miles:
Quote:
Black Pearl: "I consulted my engineering buddy at work about the 1 X every 15 K or 4 X at 60K ATF change question. I explained the deal with the 1/3 oil volume being changed, and sent him the link to Honda’s procedure.
First off I was wrong, my buddy is a Certified Lubrication Specialist and is a member of the Society of Tribologists and Lubricating Engineers.
STLE
Here is the question I posed to my Spiritual Adviser in Tribological Affairs:
“Here is the problem. Owner A. Runs his car for 60,000 miles and then performs the 4X transmission oil change per Honda’s procedure. So that at 60001 miles, he has 81% new oil and 19% old oil.
Owner B says. Hmmm. I would like to refresh the transmission juice more often. I will do a 1 X change every 15000 miles. So at the 60001 miles both cars have had 10 to 12 quarts of new transmission oil put into them. However owner B has doled his out over four 15,000 mile segments. So theoretically he would have still have the 19% original oil but 33% new oil and the remaining at various ages in between.
So the question is which is better for the vehicle. Owner A or owner B?”
And here is his answer:
For me this is a no-brainer. The periodic 1X method is by far the best.
There are two major factors at play….. wear particle generation and additive depletion.
With the 4X method you are running at 40K and 50K and 60K with ever increasing levels of wear particles. The factor is not linear. The more particles present, the greater will be the particle generation rate. With the 1X method you will be constantly flushing out some portion of the particles and should have experienced less particle generated wear when you reach the 60K mark.
Likewise with the additive consideration. With the 1X method you will never dip as low in additives as you will at 59K with the 4X method.
One caveat is that if you use the 1X method you cannot change over to the 4X method during the 60-120K period.***
Also, I really don’t like the thought of the power flush. I salute Honda for recommending against it. (I once tried it on a Corsica transmission at the advice of my mechanic.
Very shortly thereafter a valve became clogged. Fortunately it was easy access for the transmission shop so the bill was minimal. My local transmission shop does not advise the power flush and does not offer it.)”
***I questioned what he meant by not changing over to the 4 X method. What he meant was that one can not use the 1 X at 15K method at 60K then decide to do the 4 X at 120 K with no additional 1 X changes. If you decide to go to the 4 X method with no further 1 X methods, then you should do the 4 X method at the beginning of the 4 X interval period.
Therefore if one did the 1X method up to 45 K, did a 4 X at 60 and a 4 X at 120, that would be acceptable.
Doing a 1 X up to and including 60 and a 4 X at 120 K is not acceptable.
The only exception I would take on this is that if you have an extended warranty that is valid for longer than 60K, I would use Honda’s procedure to keep your warranty in effect.
My hats off to Badgerland…the honorary tribologist of the month!"
Not sure if you have the RT-4WD option, but a lot of people on that forum change there differential fluid every 15,000 miles. My fluid gave out at 13,000 and Honda took care of it and the burnishing process for free, but I am going to do a drain and fill this Fall when I hit 30,000. It is a very easy process.
Here is the link for the CR-V Forum
There is a great CR-V forum, with maintenance threads. From them I decided to do a drain and fill of the ATF every 15,000 miles on my CR-V. I get exactly 3 quarts out exactly and I just replaced it with that much. This is a quote from a CR-V forum, and is why I choose to do them at 15,000 miles:
Quote:
Black Pearl: "I consulted my engineering buddy at work about the 1 X every 15 K or 4 X at 60K ATF change question. I explained the deal with the 1/3 oil volume being changed, and sent him the link to Honda’s procedure.
First off I was wrong, my buddy is a Certified Lubrication Specialist and is a member of the Society of Tribologists and Lubricating Engineers.
STLE
Here is the question I posed to my Spiritual Adviser in Tribological Affairs:
“Here is the problem. Owner A. Runs his car for 60,000 miles and then performs the 4X transmission oil change per Honda’s procedure. So that at 60001 miles, he has 81% new oil and 19% old oil.
Owner B says. Hmmm. I would like to refresh the transmission juice more often. I will do a 1 X change every 15000 miles. So at the 60001 miles both cars have had 10 to 12 quarts of new transmission oil put into them. However owner B has doled his out over four 15,000 mile segments. So theoretically he would have still have the 19% original oil but 33% new oil and the remaining at various ages in between.
So the question is which is better for the vehicle. Owner A or owner B?”
And here is his answer:
For me this is a no-brainer. The periodic 1X method is by far the best.
There are two major factors at play….. wear particle generation and additive depletion.
With the 4X method you are running at 40K and 50K and 60K with ever increasing levels of wear particles. The factor is not linear. The more particles present, the greater will be the particle generation rate. With the 1X method you will be constantly flushing out some portion of the particles and should have experienced less particle generated wear when you reach the 60K mark.
Likewise with the additive consideration. With the 1X method you will never dip as low in additives as you will at 59K with the 4X method.
One caveat is that if you use the 1X method you cannot change over to the 4X method during the 60-120K period.***
Also, I really don’t like the thought of the power flush. I salute Honda for recommending against it. (I once tried it on a Corsica transmission at the advice of my mechanic.
Very shortly thereafter a valve became clogged. Fortunately it was easy access for the transmission shop so the bill was minimal. My local transmission shop does not advise the power flush and does not offer it.)”
***I questioned what he meant by not changing over to the 4 X method. What he meant was that one can not use the 1 X at 15K method at 60K then decide to do the 4 X at 120 K with no additional 1 X changes. If you decide to go to the 4 X method with no further 1 X methods, then you should do the 4 X method at the beginning of the 4 X interval period.
Therefore if one did the 1X method up to 45 K, did a 4 X at 60 and a 4 X at 120, that would be acceptable.
Doing a 1 X up to and including 60 and a 4 X at 120 K is not acceptable.
The only exception I would take on this is that if you have an extended warranty that is valid for longer than 60K, I would use Honda’s procedure to keep your warranty in effect.
My hats off to Badgerland…the honorary tribologist of the month!"
Not sure if you have the RT-4WD option, but a lot of people on that forum change there differential fluid every 15,000 miles. My fluid gave out at 13,000 and Honda took care of it and the burnishing process for free, but I am going to do a drain and fill this Fall when I hit 30,000. It is a very easy process.
Here is the link for the CR-V Forum
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: shadow7
As for motor oil, i would pick Mobil 1 0w-20 5qt jug in Walmart for $23.50!
I have not seen Mobil 1 0w20 in the 5 qt. jug at WM.
I have, surprised that the Walmart I found it in, they usually are behind in the oil department.
Going to buy some more before the nice price of 23.50 changes.
Good Day,
Steven
Originally Posted By: shadow7
As for motor oil, i would pick Mobil 1 0w-20 5qt jug in Walmart for $23.50!
I have not seen Mobil 1 0w20 in the 5 qt. jug at WM.
I have, surprised that the Walmart I found it in, they usually are behind in the oil department.
Going to buy some more before the nice price of 23.50 changes.
Good Day,
Steven
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: shadow7
As for motor oil, i would pick Mobil 1 0w-20 5qt jug in Walmart for $23.50!
I have not seen Mobil 1 0w20 in the 5 qt. jug at WM.
Hi tig1, my local Walmart doesn't have Mobil 1 0w-20 jug either. I saw it at a Walmart that opens 24 hours a day and the price was $23.50! It beats paying $6.2 per quarts when i bought it for a 2010 Honda CRV!!!
Originally Posted By: shadow7
As for motor oil, i would pick Mobil 1 0w-20 5qt jug in Walmart for $23.50!
I have not seen Mobil 1 0w20 in the 5 qt. jug at WM.
Hi tig1, my local Walmart doesn't have Mobil 1 0w-20 jug either. I saw it at a Walmart that opens 24 hours a day and the price was $23.50! It beats paying $6.2 per quarts when i bought it for a 2010 Honda CRV!!!
Edge might also be an option...
I would like to thank everyone for all the comments. Sounds as if my parents chose a fine vehicle to buy that will provide them with great service and reliability. I also plan to check out the CR-V forum and share that link with my father. He stated he was likely going with Amsoil 0W-20 and the Amsoil oil filter as well. With the type of driving they do in FL this should serve them well for a yearly change after the factory fill is dumped in about 5,000 miles.
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