^^ Nice, you saved yourself a ton of money.
2010 Optima engine failure. 115k
- Thread starter Richtrashman
- Start date
- Status
Probably the machining process that left filings in the engine during assembly. This is the main reason I avoided the Sonata / Optima when car shopping a little over a year ago.
Edit: never mind, I think the manufacturing issue was 2011-? model years.
Edit: never mind, I think the manufacturing issue was 2011-? model years.
Last edited:
KIA has identified problems associated with after-market oil filters and issued a TSB. This might explain some reported engine failures.
http://www.kia-forums.com/2011-2013-xm-s...ftermarket.html
http://www.kia-forums.com/2011-2013-xm-s...ftermarket.html
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
One engine failure does not mean Kia is junk.
Most Kias only have one engine, therefore it only takes one engine failure to make a Kia junk.
One engine failure does not mean Kia is junk.
Most Kias only have one engine, therefore it only takes one engine failure to make a Kia junk.
Looks like the PO went too long on the FF
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Great job on recovery from this mess. Is oil/filter in signature what the new motor got ...?
The fairy dust from H looks like piston metal with some iron/steel chunks for good measure. I suspect that some hardened Fe got loose and embedded in the piston skirts. And then started grinding wall material until enough got into circulation to start the failure cascade ...
Is there anyway to fit an oversized filter to these? What filter is the recommended that crosses to a common Fram?
I also suspect that it was the first 20K that did it. Something that created a downward spiral with the miles as they rolled up ...
And, this is a good reminder to slap a magnet on the bottom of the pan and use a magnetic drain plug ...
Is there anyway to fit an oversized filter to these? What filter is the recommended that crosses to a common Fram?
I also suspect that it was the first 20K that did it. Something that created a downward spiral with the miles as they rolled up ...
And, this is a good reminder to slap a magnet on the bottom of the pan and use a magnetic drain plug ...
Last edited:
I highly doubt its oil related. I would blame the engine itself, something wasn't right.
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry to hear that. I'm sure the 20wt oil caused this (bad attempt at a joke).
no, can't be that. we are told there are no engine failures on 20 weight oils.
but seriously, i myself use 0W20 in my daily commuter toyota with light duty cycle (mostly suburbs driving). I would use something heavier for high speed hwy driving though.
Why wouldnt 0w20 be fine with high speed highway runs? I do mostly highway 70-75 mph runs regularly on it without any issues.. although I am not trying to solve a problem I dont have. To each their own.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry to hear that. I'm sure the 20wt oil caused this (bad attempt at a joke).
no, can't be that. we are told there are no engine failures on 20 weight oils.
but seriously, i myself use 0W20 in my daily commuter toyota with light duty cycle (mostly suburbs driving). I would use something heavier for high speed hwy driving though.
Why wouldnt 0w20 be fine with high speed highway runs? I do mostly highway 70-75 mph runs regularly on it without any issues.. although I am not trying to solve a problem I dont have. To each their own.
None of the fairy dust stuck to a magnet. Lots of aluminum in this engine. Yes fill in my sig is in "new engine"
The first 20k are haunting me also.
The first 20k are haunting me also.
I wonder if dumping the factory fill early [if that wasn't done] might have saved this engine or at least extended the life a bit more?
One thing for sure is we'll never know.
Any engine can go bad. Use a good oil and good oil filter and air filter and engines should be good for a long life.
Avoid quick lub oil changes.
Avoid quick lub oil changes.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
It's really odd it took 95K miles for a manufacturing defect to rear it's ugly head, but like we all know, anything is possible for something with so many moving parts. Really doubtful this was related to oil/filter choice. Was the oil level ever run low on this engine?
Nope. Never had to add any oil as long as I've had it. Always came out looking good at 4K OCI. Always Brownish/orange between the fingers. Usually used purolator 14459 and a brand name Dino 5w20. Usually qsgb,valvoline of some variety or motorcraft syn blend.
One change of napa syn and a few napa filters thrown in. That O'reilly and Napa were the only 2 OCI on "generic" oil
I say chalk it up to a loss and roll with it. Can't win them all.
Here is a thought I had. Had remote start installed for the wife 2 yrs ago. I live on a hill (20-30* or so angle) wonder if the long pre-starts in the winter could have something to do with it? Just a thought. Maybe the angle pointing uphill starved the engine somehow? Seems a long shot but it's a thought....
One change of napa syn and a few napa filters thrown in. That O'reilly and Napa were the only 2 OCI on "generic" oil
I say chalk it up to a loss and roll with it. Can't win them all.
Here is a thought I had. Had remote start installed for the wife 2 yrs ago. I live on a hill (20-30* or so angle) wonder if the long pre-starts in the winter could have something to do with it? Just a thought. Maybe the angle pointing uphill starved the engine somehow? Seems a long shot but it's a thought....
wemay
Site Donor 2023
One that we know of out from 27,382 sold that year and they're junk? Lol
http://www.goodcarbadcar.net/2011/01/kia-optima-sales-figures.html
OP, sorry to hear of the failure. Hopefully the replacement engine will serve you well.
http://www.goodcarbadcar.net/2011/01/kia-optima-sales-figures.html
OP, sorry to hear of the failure. Hopefully the replacement engine will serve you well.
Something got in there. Reminds me of the cascading engine failures triggered by debris in the recent Corvette well-publicized problem:
"After bringing it back to Chevrolet HQ for inspection, the engineers determined that the likely cause was a piston connecting rod bearing that was damaged by debris in the oil that was left behind after tapping the threads for the oil filter. Once a piece gets jammed in there, it starts creating more debris, which keeps making things worse until finally … kablooey. In this case, it took out a few more pistons with it." http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2015/08/2...engine-problem/
"After bringing it back to Chevrolet HQ for inspection, the engineers determined that the likely cause was a piston connecting rod bearing that was damaged by debris in the oil that was left behind after tapping the threads for the oil filter. Once a piece gets jammed in there, it starts creating more debris, which keeps making things worse until finally … kablooey. In this case, it took out a few more pistons with it." http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2015/08/2...engine-problem/
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Good time to remind folks check your OM for timing chain/belt service life -- ain't many "cascades" faster than some of those wrecks ...
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.
Not true.
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.
Not true.
This is unfortunate and most likely all we will ever be able to attribute this to is a case of bad luck.
What's even more unfortunate is how quickly some took this opportunity to spew out their nonsense.
What's even more unfortunate is how quickly some took this opportunity to spew out their nonsense.
- Status