So, I had a chat with the service manager, and the mechanic at the Chevy dealer today while lovely spouse was getting schooled on all the Equinox buttons by the delivery folks. They have had zero issues with the Traverse DI engines, including an 08 with about 80k on it. This particular Traverse is mostly highway driven, and the owner returns to the dealer for a change when indicated by the OLM. The dealer uses bulk Valvoline. This is not to say the intakes are not filthy, but they have not been into a DI engine because of that issue, which is somewhat encouraging. They (the service dept) recommends (obviously) 3/3k OCI's for all engines. He did not have a preference for conventional or synthetic, but said they use M1 if a customer requests synthetic. He also said that GM is beginning to realize that the OLM "IN SOME CASES" (his words) is overly optimistic. They had a Trailblazer in one bay, engine removed. The TB had 80k on it, and had spun a rod bearing. This car had followed the OLM, and it's last change was 11k on the same Valvo conventional mentioned above. Now it may just be this guy talking, thinking he convinced GM that the OLM needed tweaking, or maybe his statement is accurate. I don't know. I do know that my Envoy survived very well on 5k OCI, and I see the new Equinox doing the same.
2010 Equinox 2.4 Oil/Filter combo
- Thread starter Rummspringa
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Originally Posted By: beanoil
They have had zero issues with the Traverse DI engines, including an 08 with about 80k on it.
FWIW the DI engine for any Lambda vehicles began with the 09 MY. And there is no 08 Traverse. First MY for the Traverse is 2009.
Originally Posted By: beanoil
This is not to say the intakes are not filthy, but they have not been into a DI engine because of that issue, which is somewhat encouraging.
Since the DI engine in the Traverse has been around for only 2 MY it is for sure too early to know if their are issues re carbon buildup and deposits for these power plants.
But multiple UOAs of the 3.6l DI for sure show lots of fuel dilution. But having said this maybe the newer Equinox DI engine is...better
.
They have had zero issues with the Traverse DI engines, including an 08 with about 80k on it.
FWIW the DI engine for any Lambda vehicles began with the 09 MY. And there is no 08 Traverse. First MY for the Traverse is 2009.
Originally Posted By: beanoil
This is not to say the intakes are not filthy, but they have not been into a DI engine because of that issue, which is somewhat encouraging.
Since the DI engine in the Traverse has been around for only 2 MY it is for sure too early to know if their are issues re carbon buildup and deposits for these power plants.
But multiple UOAs of the 3.6l DI for sure show lots of fuel dilution. But having said this maybe the newer Equinox DI engine is...better
I know its an old thread but I wanted to post an update. Yesterday I finally got around to changing the oil in the 2010 Equinox (6500 mi). I picked up a 5 quart jug of Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 at ChinaMart for $28. After starting her back up with the Ultra the constant ticking sound of the DI decreased by about 75 percent. Idles and revs much smoother too. The old oil was just about 4 quarts measured back into the jug and was black as night. I probably should have changed it 3k miles ago! Im going to send off the factory oil for an UOA for a baseline then see how it does with the ultra I put in yesterday.
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
After starting her back up with the Ultra the constant ticking sound of the DI decreased by about 75 percent. Idles and revs much smoother too.
Your initial impressions are different than Lonestar's after putting in PU in the GM 3.6L DI.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1853400/
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
The old oil was just about 4 quarts measured back into the jug and was black as night. I probably should have changed it 3k miles ago! Im going to send off the factory oil for an UOA
I would imagine the wear #s for this dino factory fill will be (sky) high as 6500 miles on the FF is alot of miles for these GM DI engines.
After starting her back up with the Ultra the constant ticking sound of the DI decreased by about 75 percent. Idles and revs much smoother too.
Your initial impressions are different than Lonestar's after putting in PU in the GM 3.6L DI.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1853400/
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
The old oil was just about 4 quarts measured back into the jug and was black as night. I probably should have changed it 3k miles ago! Im going to send off the factory oil for an UOA
I would imagine the wear #s for this dino factory fill will be (sky) high as 6500 miles on the FF is alot of miles for these GM DI engines.
I've spent a little time with the Nox now. Sorry, rumm, but an oil change is not going to have any effect on the DI injector ticking. No how, no way. Ultra is probably a fine choice. I did not (and would not) go 6500 on a FF. Too much is happening in a new engine. But that's me, and lots of folks have gone the distance on the first change in many cars. Fill is 5 quarts, I suspect you used a little oil during break in since you managed 4 quarts back into the bottle for recycle. But that's a 20% reduction in capacity to hold soot and fuel. I bet that oil is toast. I'm interested in fuel concentration in it. I changed my FF at 500 miles to Schaeffer 7k, and am switching to Schaeffer 9k with the next change. I thought long and hard about GC, but figured that during warranty, I'll stay with an oil that meets the specs. At 6.00 a quart, Schaeffer 9k is right at GC's price point anyway.
MPG last tank, 29.8 in combined driving.
MPG last tank, 29.8 in combined driving.
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Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
After starting her back up with the Ultra the constant ticking sound of the DI decreased by about 75 percent. Idles and revs much smoother too.
Your initial impressions are different than Lonestar's after putting in PU in the GM 3.6L DI.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1853400/
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
The old oil was just about 4 quarts measured back into the jug and was black as night. I probably should have changed it 3k miles ago! Im going to send off the factory oil for an UOA
I would imagine the wear #s for this dino factory fill will be (sky) high as 6500 miles on the FF is alot of miles for these GM DI engines.
Abvsolutely, my first impression was not a good one and it still is not.
If you UOA the FF I feel your will see results that scare the heck out of you - - we shall see. Maybe only the 3.6DI kills the oil.
I think your dealership is typical.... full of it.
I feel sorry for the Traverse owner who has used bulk Val & changed according to OLM. Engine should be toast soon or bulk Val is the best secret out there.
I am still running the PU in my 3.6L DI (only about 500 miles on the PU) and the timing chain noise is still there. I am anxiously awaited the dexos spec stuff to come out. Be interesting to see a VOA and better to see a UOA from a DI engine.
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
After starting her back up with the Ultra the constant ticking sound of the DI decreased by about 75 percent. Idles and revs much smoother too.
Your initial impressions are different than Lonestar's after putting in PU in the GM 3.6L DI.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1853400/
Originally Posted By: Rummspringa
The old oil was just about 4 quarts measured back into the jug and was black as night. I probably should have changed it 3k miles ago! Im going to send off the factory oil for an UOA
I would imagine the wear #s for this dino factory fill will be (sky) high as 6500 miles on the FF is alot of miles for these GM DI engines.
Abvsolutely, my first impression was not a good one and it still is not.
If you UOA the FF I feel your will see results that scare the heck out of you - - we shall see. Maybe only the 3.6DI kills the oil.
I think your dealership is typical.... full of it.
I feel sorry for the Traverse owner who has used bulk Val & changed according to OLM. Engine should be toast soon or bulk Val is the best secret out there.
I am still running the PU in my 3.6L DI (only about 500 miles on the PU) and the timing chain noise is still there. I am anxiously awaited the dexos spec stuff to come out. Be interesting to see a VOA and better to see a UOA from a DI engine.
Originally Posted By: lonestar
I am still running the PU in my 3.6L DI (only about 500 miles on the PU) and the timing chain noise is still there. I am anxiously awaited the dexos spec stuff to come out.
But essentially isnt PU GF5 compliant and by extension also an unofficial dexos oil?
I am still running the PU in my 3.6L DI (only about 500 miles on the PU) and the timing chain noise is still there. I am anxiously awaited the dexos spec stuff to come out.
But essentially isnt PU GF5 compliant and by extension also an unofficial dexos oil?
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: lonestar
I am still running the PU in my 3.6L DI (only about 500 miles on the PU) and the timing chain noise is still there. I am anxiously awaited the dexos spec stuff to come out.
But essentially isnt PU GF5 compliant and by extension also an unofficial dexos oil?
Do not think so - but maybe it is. However, it is just like a SM / GF-4 oil that meest some specs but not the GM4718M spec (just using that as an example). The dexos1 spec is not the SN / GF5 spec. Now maybe SN / GF5 meets the dexos1 specs but at this point I certainly do not know. In short, just because an oil is SM / GF4 does not mean it meets GM4718m specs. Thus just becasue an oil is SN / GF5 does not mean it meets dexos1 specs.
Originally Posted By: lonestar
I am still running the PU in my 3.6L DI (only about 500 miles on the PU) and the timing chain noise is still there. I am anxiously awaited the dexos spec stuff to come out.
But essentially isnt PU GF5 compliant and by extension also an unofficial dexos oil?
Do not think so - but maybe it is. However, it is just like a SM / GF-4 oil that meest some specs but not the GM4718M spec (just using that as an example). The dexos1 spec is not the SN / GF5 spec. Now maybe SN / GF5 meets the dexos1 specs but at this point I certainly do not know. In short, just because an oil is SM / GF4 does not mean it meets GM4718m specs. Thus just becasue an oil is SN / GF5 does not mean it meets dexos1 specs.
2010 Nox 4 cyl. Just changed my oil @ 2700miles/4 months. FF was very dirty(as expected). Filter was gunky. Replaced with PU 5w30 and acd 457G filter. After driving for several days the ticking noise has subsided slightly, maybe 20%. Still looking for the TSB or recall on the fuel pumpp, but that's another issue. Will post on future results of the Pennzoil Ultra
We got a 2.4L 2010 Nox during Cash for Clunkers. Because of some of the early issues they had with the software for the transmission (the new calibration still isn't perfect, but is much better) I got 2 years or 30k in free oil changes/tire rotations. I changed the factory fill at 6500k miles (probably half to 60% hwy) at the dealer, so I have no idea how it looked. OLM said I think 36%. Then it stalled on us over X-mas (started right back up), so we got that fixed (there is a service bulletin on the issue) and as part of that they change the oil (I think that change only had 3k on it). Both of these were conventional 5W30 Goodwrench oil.
It has been about 4k since the last oil change (the one as part of the engine fix). I haven't checked OLM lately, but it is probably about 50% if not higher. It is in the shop right now getting some paint issues taken care of under warranty. I was going to wait another 3k and then put in M1 full synthetic because I believe that is what the dealer uses for full syn and I still have those free oil changes (probably will have to pay the difference between it and conventional).
Should I have them change the oil while it is in there or might I be OK to wait? Sounds like these engines are pretty hard on oil. And how good of a "cleaning oil" is M1 full syn? Seems PP or PU are thought of being the best in this regard.
It has been about 4k since the last oil change (the one as part of the engine fix). I haven't checked OLM lately, but it is probably about 50% if not higher. It is in the shop right now getting some paint issues taken care of under warranty. I was going to wait another 3k and then put in M1 full synthetic because I believe that is what the dealer uses for full syn and I still have those free oil changes (probably will have to pay the difference between it and conventional).
Should I have them change the oil while it is in there or might I be OK to wait? Sounds like these engines are pretty hard on oil. And how good of a "cleaning oil" is M1 full syn? Seems PP or PU are thought of being the best in this regard.
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
We got a 2.4L 2010 Nox during Cash for Clunkers. Because of some of the early issues they had with the software for the transmission (the new calibration still isn't perfect, but is much better) I got 2 years or 30k in free oil changes/tire rotations. I changed the factory fill at 6500k miles (probably half to 60% hwy) at the dealer, so I have no idea how it looked. OLM said I think 36%. Then it stalled on us over X-mas (started right back up), so we got that fixed (there is a service bulletin on the issue) and as part of that they change the oil (I think that change only had 3k on it). Both of these were conventional 5W30 Goodwrench oil.
It has been about 4k since the last oil change (the one as part of the engine fix). I haven't checked OLM lately, but it is probably about 50% if not higher. It is in the shop right now getting some paint issues taken care of under warranty. I was going to wait another 3k and then put in M1 full synthetic because I believe that is what the dealer uses for full syn and I still have those free oil changes (probably will have to pay the difference between it and conventional).
Should I have them change the oil while it is in there or might I be OK to wait? Sounds like these engines are pretty hard on oil. And how good of a "cleaning oil" is M1 full syn? Seems PP or PU are thought of being the best in this regard.
Gotta love first model-year glitches and problems they've yet to work out. The 2.4L is not DI, and isn't too hard on oil at all. You don't have to worry about cleaning it out, it's fine. Just let the dealer do the changes.
We got a 2.4L 2010 Nox during Cash for Clunkers. Because of some of the early issues they had with the software for the transmission (the new calibration still isn't perfect, but is much better) I got 2 years or 30k in free oil changes/tire rotations. I changed the factory fill at 6500k miles (probably half to 60% hwy) at the dealer, so I have no idea how it looked. OLM said I think 36%. Then it stalled on us over X-mas (started right back up), so we got that fixed (there is a service bulletin on the issue) and as part of that they change the oil (I think that change only had 3k on it). Both of these were conventional 5W30 Goodwrench oil.
It has been about 4k since the last oil change (the one as part of the engine fix). I haven't checked OLM lately, but it is probably about 50% if not higher. It is in the shop right now getting some paint issues taken care of under warranty. I was going to wait another 3k and then put in M1 full synthetic because I believe that is what the dealer uses for full syn and I still have those free oil changes (probably will have to pay the difference between it and conventional).
Should I have them change the oil while it is in there or might I be OK to wait? Sounds like these engines are pretty hard on oil. And how good of a "cleaning oil" is M1 full syn? Seems PP or PU are thought of being the best in this regard.
Gotta love first model-year glitches and problems they've yet to work out. The 2.4L is not DI, and isn't too hard on oil at all. You don't have to worry about cleaning it out, it's fine. Just let the dealer do the changes.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Gotta love first model-year glitches and problems they've yet to work out. The 2.4L is not DI, and isn't too hard on oil at all. You don't have to worry about cleaning it out, it's fine. Just let the dealer do the changes.
Yeah, we've had our share of issues. They also forgot to put in the USB port on a bunch of the early 1LTs with the Vehicle Interface Package, and ours is one. Costs $400 to get it in, not worth it even though we'd really like it. We'd still buy the vehicle again, though, nothing else in the class comes close.
The 2.4 in the Nox is DI. The 2.4 in the Malibu isn't. So I'm thinking it might be closer to the engine in the Traverse everyone says is hard on oil. So I'm not sure if I should have them change the oil to M1 right away while it is already at the dealer or if I should wait another 2-3k like I was going to?
Gotta love first model-year glitches and problems they've yet to work out. The 2.4L is not DI, and isn't too hard on oil at all. You don't have to worry about cleaning it out, it's fine. Just let the dealer do the changes.
Yeah, we've had our share of issues. They also forgot to put in the USB port on a bunch of the early 1LTs with the Vehicle Interface Package, and ours is one. Costs $400 to get it in, not worth it even though we'd really like it. We'd still buy the vehicle again, though, nothing else in the class comes close.
The 2.4 in the Nox is DI. The 2.4 in the Malibu isn't. So I'm thinking it might be closer to the engine in the Traverse everyone says is hard on oil. So I'm not sure if I should have them change the oil to M1 right away while it is already at the dealer or if I should wait another 2-3k like I was going to?
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