2010 Accord VTC Issues

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Originally Posted by Phishin
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Why are you replacing the VTEC spool valve assembly?.....BTW, You have 2 listed......You only need one of them, Look at the back of the engine on the passenger side & identify which one you have. That is IF you decide to replace it? VCT Phaser rattle & P1009 isn't a good reason in my opinion! 15811-R40-A01 is the single Pressure Switch, Spool, Solenoid. 15811-R41-L01 is the dual Pressure switches, Spools, & Solenoids [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Why? Because I heard that the spool's oil control valve is responsible for "leaking" and causing pressure in the actuator to "leak down" causing the start up rattle. Is that not the case? Also, a highly respected member here, who wrenches on cars himself, highly suggested replacing the spool valve. I ordered both of them because I'm not 100% sure which valve I have (I needed to order right away and the mechanic had the car locked up in his garage). So I'll just send back the valve (or both) that I didn't use.
VCT & VTEC are 2 completely separate systems...... *The VCT is comprised of a Control Solenoid with a built-in spool valve & a the VCT Phaser/Actuator (Intake Cam Gear). *VTEC is for Primary & Secondary Rocker Arm control....While this system has it's own problems, It's a lot more reliable than the VCT system & has its own DTC's/Monitor's via the Pressure switches.
 

Phishin

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Just dropped off a few new parts at the mechanic's shop. He had the engine opened up. Doing a valve adjustment. He had the cams marked with a pen before he took it part and now with the new chain and everything installed (he was waiting for a new tensioner that was stuck in shipping), he showed me that the cam's were about 1/4--1/2" off. Yeah, that would cause a problem..... Hopefully it will be all ready to go later on today.
 

Phishin

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Originally Posted by Phishin
He showed me that the cam's were about 1/4--1/2" off.
I forgot to mention....that means the timing was off about 15-20 degrees. YIKES!!! The chain, and everything touching the chain, has been replaced with OEM parts. Plus a new Spool Valve Assembly. I was a little disappointed at the amount of varnish and maybe even slight crud around the cam's....of course the lobes looked clean and nice, but everything else was varnished heavily and maybe even some slight crud tucked away in some corners.
 
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Originally Posted by Phishin
Originally Posted by Phishin
He showed me that the cam's were about 1/4--1/2" off.
I forgot to mention....that means the timing was off about 15-20 degrees. YIKES!!! The chain, and everything touching the chain, has been replaced with OEM parts. Plus a new Spool Valve Assembly. I was a little disappointed at the amount of varnish and maybe even slight crud around the cam's....of course the lobes looked clean and nice, but everything else was varnished heavily and maybe even some slight crud tucked away in some corners.
Looks like you found the problem. Where were your oil change intervals?
 

Phishin

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Indiana
Originally Posted by The Critic
Where were your oil change intervals?
This is car is only driven on the highway for long stretches. 1 hour each way is MINIMUM for this car to get out of the garage. It's used for BMX racing on the weekend only. I figured 8-10k mile OCI's were fine in this Honda...these 4 cylinders are known to be easy on oil, and these are all highway miles. I guess, at least for awhile, I'll cut back to 5k mile OCI's for a bit and hope for some cleaning. Might dose a little Berryman's and/or Kreen to help this process along.
 
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Originally Posted by Phishin
Originally Posted by Phishin
He showed me that the cam's were about 1/4--1/2" off.
I forgot to mention....that means the timing was off about 15-20 degrees. YIKES!!! The chain, and everything touching the chain, has been replaced with OEM parts. Plus a new Spool Valve Assembly. I was a little disappointed at the amount of varnish and maybe even slight crud around the cam's....of course the lobes looked clean and nice, but everything else was varnished heavily and maybe even some slight crud tucked away in some corners.
Good UOA's too, right. They mean almost nothing as to the cleanliness of the engine and even detecting severe wear which chain wear is and this proves it once again.
 

Phishin

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Well, Car is out of the shop. Car runs and sounds good so far!! While he was in there, the valves were adjusted: 0.008 on the intake, 0.010 on exhaust. The car got a new timing chain and anything touching the chain and a new spool valve assembly....EXCEPT I forgot to order the crank sprocket. That part was on a different part diagram so I totally forgot about it. Mechanic said it looked pretty good, it had minimal wear, so he wasn't worried. I'm cutting OCI's back to 5k miles for awhile after I saw the varnish around the cams in an attempt to provide a little clean up. I'm sure I'll try to help it along with a bit of Kreen or Berryman's. $900 in labor. $600 in parts. DONE.
 
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Originally Posted by Phishin
Well, Car is out of the shop. Car runs and sounds good so far!! While he was in there, the valves were adjusted: 0.008 on the intake, 0.010 on exhaust. The car got a new timing chain and anything touching the chain and a new spool valve assembly....EXCEPT I forgot to order the crank sprocket. That part was on a different part diagram so I totally forgot about it. Mechanic said it looked pretty good, it had minimal wear, so he wasn't worried. I'm cutting OCI's back to 5k miles for awhile after I saw the varnish around the cams in an attempt to provide a little clean up. I'm sure I'll try to help it along with a bit of Kreen or Berryman's. $900 in labor. $600 in parts. DONE.
Glad to hear that the engine is working properly again.
 

Phishin

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Since I observed a fair amount of varnish under the VC during the repair, what do you guys recommend to help clean up any sticky mess in the engine?? I really plan to drive this car to 400k miles. I'd like to combat the varnish and crud, instead of letting it continue to accumulate. I'm probably not going to go to a Cummins dealer and buy their $80/gallon oil. Besides that, any recommendations? Maybe an OCI or two of Red Line? Before the next few oil changes, maybe run some Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush or BG 109 or Berryman's?
 

Phishin

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Wanted to provide an update: Since the repairs about 4 months ago, I've driven the approximately 5k miles. It's probably been started approximately 100 times, including some very cold weather. This normally would cause the typical "VTC Rattle" which is very common in Honda's (including mine)....but since the repair, I haven't heard it once. The car starts and runs like it's brand new. I've had zero issues. I'm very happy.
 
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How long did you have the cold start grind i have it on 2012 si. Wondering if the vtc will fix this or if i need to do the whole timing chain i also have no engine light on
 
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