2009 Vibe/Corolla/Matrix Brakes

[Rhymingmechanic]

Hi All,

The front brake pads on my 2009 Vibe just passed state inspection by 1/32." I got it used with 29,000 and it now has 62,000 miles. The shop wrote me a $480.00 estimate for replacing the front pads and rotors. (I get a yearly inspection and rotation there, because they sold me the tires. They always balk at the balance part of "lifetime rotation and balance," but this time the receipt actually lists balance and 8 weights. The same old weights with three years of brake dust and dirt are on the wheels, though.)

Can I just replace the pads and clean up the rotors with a wire brush on my cordless drill? I haven't pulled the wheels to check the rotors yet myself, but from what I can see, there's a slight ridge around the outside and they are worn evenly otherwise. The brakes work as they always have, with no noise or pulsation.

My plan at this point is to replace the pads with Akebono ProAct ceramics. (The stock pads are apparently ceramic.) I'll also get a hardware kit and bleed the brakes.

If I end up needing rotors, I'm considering the AC Delco OE line at $63 each or Beck Arnley Premium at $50. The OE Toyota rotor is somewhere in that range, too. Would that money get me anything better than the AC Delco Durastop or Raybestos Professional at $30-$35? These are Rockauto prices, except for Toyota.

Thanks for your input.

 

[CharBaby]

I take it as you will be installing you own pads???

As long as you don't have any brake pulsation/shaking when you step on the brakes, I'd just replace the pads with whatever you choose. Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic are GREAT pads and a very good choice.

I you end up needing rotors in the near futrue, do your homework now so that you'll be ready to buy the most recomended rotors and not have to do your research then. You'll be able to buy'em a slap'em on.

I don't replace rotors unless they're pulsing and only buy new rotors(not turn'em) as the cost of new rotors are close enough to the cost of turning rotors(at most shops)

 

[Sawdusted]

If there is no brake pulse, I would also just slap on new pads. I know original toyota rotors are thick. I would also check the rotor thickness if you have a pair of micrometers. IIRC, the min required thickness is 0.906". New rotors would be 0.984".

If not, I have had good luck with Centric Premium series rotors and Raybestos Professionl grade rotors from the Rock. Cost much less than AC Delco or Beck Arnley and work fine for the life of a set of pads. Turning rotors in my area costs $20 each. New rotors $30 each. No brainer to buy new. Plus if you have them turned, you're having the car sit for a while immobilized while you get the rotors turned.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
If there is no brake pulse, I would also just slap on new pads. I know original toyota rotors are thick. I would also check the rotor thickness if you have a pair of micrometers. IIRC, the min required thickness is 0.906". New rotors would be 0.984".

If not, I have had good luck with Centric Premium series rotors and Raybestos Professionl grade rotors from the Rock. Cost much less than AC Delco or Beck Arnley and work fine for the life of a set of pads. Turning rotors in my area costs $20 each. New rotors $30 each. No brainer to buy new. Plus if you have them turned, you're having the car sit for a while immobilized while you get the rotors turned.


It cost a bit more in my area to have rotors cut which makes the cost of new rotors even more of a NO BRAINER

And then, your thinnng out your existing rotors causing a replacement very soon anyway(like, 6mo/1yr)

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Thanks for the replies so far. Yes, I will be changing the pads myself.

I figured turning would be close to the cost of new rotors, and could introduce its own problems. Except a pad change on a '94 Saturn, I'm new to brake work on cars with "throwaway" rotors. Most of my brake experience is from older cars that had more material for machining.

I should have said 2010 model year in the title, by the way.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Usually rotors are replaced on second pads, you don't need to replace rotors now.

My mechanic charges same labor($50) for: replace pad only, replace pad and rotor, replace pad and resurface rotor. Obviously the last one is the most labor.

 

[artificialist]

Mid grade brake rotors aren't much more expensive than having a machinist refinish your OEM rotors, and perform just as well. That is what I have done on most cars in my family.

The other thing to consider is that do you know if your machinist actually measures the rotors after machining so you don't have brake rotors out of specification?

Raybestos Pro is an excellent choice. They are so good, they didn't warp like the OEM rotors on my mom's 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Thanks for the comment about Raybestos Pro rotors. I'll keep that in mind for when I do change.

I don't have a machinist at this point, and I don't know if the inspecting shop measured rotors or just figured worn pads= "full brake job for us." I may see about finding a caliper to measure the old ones myself, though.