2009 Mazda5 - Blower Motor Recommendations

Number_35

Number_35

Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
7,700
Location
Winnipeg MB CA
I posted a week or so ago about the fan quitting on our son's 2009 Mazda5.

I shorted across the resistor module to bypass it, and the fan worked at high speed only whenever the ignition was on.

I replaced the resistor module, and the fan worked well (with variable speeds!) for a few days, though it was rather noisy.

I figured (hoped) the noise was a leaf in the squirrel cage, but no. Over the next days the fan operation became intermittent, and now it's quit entirely.

Per the FSM and various YouTube videos, the fan motor assembly is a nightmare to replace, so I did a bit more troubleshooting.

Unfortunately, it's definitely the fan motor - I shorted across the fan-control relay, ensuring 12 V was reaching the motor, and grounded the low side right to the battery -ve. No go.

So I started pulling things apart. A weak fan motor was doubly confirmed when I was able reach up enough to touch the squirrel cage and give it a spin. It would start right up and run fine, though a bit noisily, and might start up again once or twice after that, but would not consistently start without a push.

So, now I need to buy a fan motor. My choices are limited to those listed as "with rear vent".

Given the extreme amount of work involved in replacing these, I'm certainly willing to pay more for the best product available, within reason. (I'm assuming the part from the dealer would be north of $300, so if one of the RA options would be almost as good, I'm open to it.)

Screenshot_20241110-190858.webp

Screenshot_20241110-190914~2.webp

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Last edited:
From the title, it sounded like you wanted to install a supercharged engine (e.g. "blower motor") in your Mazda! 😜
 
Is it really buried? The Focus one isn't, soI just got one from Canadian tire for the Focus, pretty cheap and its been going fine for 3 years now. I think it was around $100 all in, and the resistor was 30? I can't say I've had a problem yet with Can tire parts, but my fancy moog sway bar endlink has both boots cracked in 2 months? Must've been ancient old stock?
 
IndyIan said:
Is it really buried? The Focus one isn't, soI just got one from Canadian tire for the Focus, pretty cheap and its been going fine for 3 years now. I think it was around $100 all in, and the resistor was 30?
Click to expand...
Yes, it's in there deep. They could simplify the FSM by saying:

Step 1 - Disassemble most of the interior of the vehicle.

Step 2 - Remove the old blower-fan assembly.

Step 3 - Reinstall in reverse order.
 
Number_35 said:
Yes, it's in there deep. They could simplify the FSM by saying:

Step 1 - Disassemble most of the interior of the vehicle.

Step 2 - Remove the old blower-fan assembly.

Step 3 - Reinstall in reverse order.
Click to expand...
Yikes, then go for a good one! Sometimes removing the passenger seat is 1 wiring clip and 4 bolts and it gives you more space to work. Also try to find some youtube videos, often there is a better way than FSM says.
 
Number_35 said:
Yes, it's in there deep. They could simplify the FSM by saying:

Step 1 - Disassemble most of the interior of the vehicle.

Step 2 - Remove the old blower-fan assembly.

Step 3 - Reinstall in reverse order.
Click to expand...
'08-11 Focii heater cores are like that, as are many passenger cars I assume. It's basically 1) remove front seats 2) remove center console and parking brake surround and 3) tear down dash to firewall

My first car was an '80 Audi 5k and I'd regularly remove the front seats so I could lay on my back for under-dash work. The climate control bulb was comically placed but if you got your body just right you could reach it....blind.

Then there's the early '90s Caravans where you had to cut a big chunk of Insulation under the dash to drop the blower motor. Somehow a utility knife becomes instantly dull out-of-position ;)
 
IndyIan said:
Yikes, then go for a good one! Sometimes removing the passenger seat is 1 wiring clip and 4 bolts and it gives you more space to work. Also try to find some youtube videos, often there is a better way than FSM says.
Click to expand...
Yup, I watched several videos yesterday. The driver's seat is the one that's more in the way - I removed the four bolts, and was able to move the seat back about 30 cm (12") without disconnecting the wiring harness. (No power adjustments, so I imagine the wiring is for seatbelt status only.)

I figured the genuine Mazda part would be at least C$300 and possibly C$500, but have found it listed online with an MSRP of <C$200, so will phone the dealer tomorrow. (Remembrance Day here, as you know - we will walk up to a small ceremony at a local park.)

The online retailers offer some good discounts off MSRP, but my parts man at the dealer gives me 15% off, and there's no shipping charge.
 
D60 said:
'08-11 Focii heater cores are like that, as are many passenger cars I assume. It's basically 1) remove front seats 2) remove center console and parking brake surround and 3) tear down dash to firewall

My first car was an '80 Audi 5k and I'd regularly remove the front seats so I could lay on my back for under-dash work. The climate control bulb was comically placed but if you got your body just right you could reach it....blind.

Then there's the early '90s Caravans where you had to cut a big chunk of Insulation under the dash to drop the blower motor. Somehow a utility knife becomes instantly dull out-of-position ;)
Click to expand...
A friend replaced a heater core on an old beater '80s Ford - IIRC, something Fairmont/Zephyr-based. He looked at what was called for, the condition of the car, and cut the dash padding in half for access.
 
Number_35 said:
Yup, I watched several videos yesterday. The driver's seat is the one that's more in the way - I removed the four bolts, and was able to move the seat back about 30 cm (12") without disconnecting the wiring harness. (No power adjustments, so I imagine the wiring is for seatbelt status only.)

I figured the genuine Mazda part would be at least C$300 and possibly C$500, but have found it listed online with an MSRP of <C$200, so will phone the dealer tomorrow. (Remembrance Day here, as you know - we will walk up to a small ceremony at a local park.)

The online retailers offer some good discounts off MSRP, but my parts man at the dealer gives me 15% off, and there's no shipping charge.
Click to expand...
Wiring under the seats is for airbags, too. Unplug it after unhooking the battery. You don't want to risk damaging that harness and the headache it would create for yourself.

Basing this from my 07 Mazda 3 having ds seat airbags, I'd assume a 5 to be similar if not the same.
 
someonesomewhere said:
Wiring under the seats is for airbags, too. Unplug it after unhooking the battery. You don't want to risk damaging that harness and the headache it would create for yourself.

Basing this from my 07 Mazda 3 having ds seat airbags, I'd assume a 5 to be similar if not the same.
Click to expand...
Thank you, you may have saved me much grief!
 
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I removed the driver's seat completely (the electrical connector was challenging), and the accelerator pedal assembly (not too bad).

Now for more videos - the brake pedal assembly looks challenging, to say the least.

After that I should be able to get access to the driver's side of the blower motor.
 
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The carnage is ghastly ...
20241112_134809.webp
20241112_134817_HDR.webp
20241112_134903_HDR.webp


As it turns out, it's a real pain installing the blower fan assembly without the proprietary SST (special service tool, in Mazdaspeak).

But anyway, it's in, and I've almost got the brake pedal assembly reinstalled. I knocked off for the day after running out of daylight.
 
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