2009 Honda CRV - End Links Rusted on

[Chester11]

Hey folks:

I tried to change out the front struts - but ended up having trouble with rusted nuts on the end links.

Like a dope - I should have just stopped, but instead I destroyed the end links by gripping the back with a locking pliers. (I had them replaced a few years back and hoped that they would come loose pretty easily - but was wrong).

Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the rusted nuts? I tried to cut one off - but the nut still spins (this end came out with the strut). The lower is a problem - because it connects to the sway bar, and it is tough to access. (This is the one I really need to cut off).

It really is a ridiculous design. You are supposed to hold the stud with an allen key and crank the nut. The stud rusts and makes it hard to remove. (I'm explaining it poorly). Most guys seem to be able to get it somewhat lose, and then cut or grip the stud. Mine do not loosen at all and there is nothing to cut.

Should I try a nut splitter? I can cut the back of the link - but this does not solve the problem - the nut and stud will remain attached sway bar. I supposed I could cut the end link off and heat it the nut - but you cannot really put much leverage on it, because the sway bar absorbs most of the force.

Thanks - I'm really jammed. I can at least replace the strut so it rolls - but will not be able to connect the end link again if I cannot get the lower nut and stud out.

1A Auto link - they were able to work it loose with locking pliers and an air gun. I couldn't get a good grip, and destroyed the rubber boot.

 

[ctechbob]

What tools do you have at your disposal? I've used an air angle grinder to just go in right next to the swaybar and cut nut and all with a thin disk.

The OEM links are a dumb design. Aftermarket ones are usually a little better since they put flats on the inside to get a wrench on, but usually you have to slim down a wrench to make it fit.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Often you will have to cut off the end link

They make aftermarket end links that have wrench flats. Get a set of those

 

[atikovi]

I just cut the nut in 2 places with a Dremel cutoff wheel. That splits it in two and comes off easy.

 

[spasm3]

I would try removing the lower bolt of the end link and then you can attack it with the strut assembly off the car.

I would replace that end link anyway, with some anti-seize.

 

[oggb]

Grip the other side of the threaded "stud" where the boot is with a pair of needle nose vice grips and you'll be able to break the nut off/stud off, one or the other. It's already ruined so no loss.

 

[eljefino]

Get a little cut off wheel like a dremel for the tight side. A 4 inch angle grinder will do the "easy" side, and much faster.

Cut off the stud flush with the end of the nut. Grind a little nut, too, so it's all shiny metal. Then cut a slit in the stud, appropriate for a screwdriver.

They rust together at the interface you just cut off. That nut should spin right off, but if it doesn't, you can stick a screwdriver in your new slot and turn it clockwise while holding the nut steady.

Do this right and you can even reuse it, LOL.

 

[Number_35]

Agreed, these are a poor design for the rust belt - it's rare that a 5 mm Allen key will allow you to hold the shaft while you remove the rusted-on nut. (As you've experienced, without a way to hold the shaft, the ball will spin in the socket when the nut is turned.)

I consider these to be sacrificial, and often have to grind them off.

I slather on the anti-seize compound when installing them, and that usually allows them to be removed intact, even years later.

Aftermarket replacement end links sometimes use a large hex nut on the shaft, allowing you to hold it more securely when installing and removing the nut.

 

[JimPghPA]

I just cut the nut in 2 places with a Dremel cutoff wheel. That splits it in two and comes off easy.

+ 1 on using a Dremel. A Dremel is a very good versatile tool to have. Years ago one of my neighbors had a totally rounded off lug-nut on a car wheel rim that was also a little sunk in where it was. He said he gave up and even if I ruined the rim and stud that would be ok as long as the rim was removed. I used the long narrow small ball cutter and a lot of patience and was able to reach down in there and cut the nut on two sides to cut it in half, and did not damage the stud threads or rim. The newer design quick attach quick release Dremel cutoff wheels that come in wheels made for metal and wheels made for plastic are almost a must have. I've cut locks off of neighbors garage for her twice with the metal cut off wheel. Quicker and easier than a hack-saw. I have used my Dremel so many times over the years that I have lost track. Once there was a rusted on nut high up behind the kitchen sink and I cut it in half. There are a lot of uses for the Dremel rotary hand held tool. Definitely worth buying.

 

[Chester11]

Thanks all - appreciate the help.

I do have a dremel. I'll take another look at it, but I don't think I can get my hands in there and place wheel on the nut. It needs more diameter - if that makes sense. I will try to cut the nut vertically and see if I can get it off.

I have a die grinder and a cutter - but I cannot find the mandrel to attach a cutting wheel to either. (These air tools were handed down to me - and not to be an ingrate, they are incomplete, and I probably just should just trash them).

I did use the 4 inch grinder right angle grinder on the top side - that worked somewhat.

I was going to give this a try if the dremel does not work.

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[mightymousetech]

At the dealer, this is how we do it:

-break link off the ball joint prying with a pickle fork
-grab ball of ball joint with good vice grips
-hit nut with 1/2” impact
-once first joint is off, can just grab link and twist off second joint
-vice grips and impact on second ball

Takes less than 5 mins per link.

 

[Number_35]

Agreed, these are a poor design for the rust belt - it's rare that a 5 mm Allen key will allow you to hold the shaft while you remove the rusted-on nut. (As you've experienced, without a way to hold the shaft, the ball will spin in the socket when the nut is turned.)

I consider these to be sacrificial, and often have to grind them off.

I slather on the anti-seize compound when installing them, and that usually allows them to be removed intact, even years later.

Aftermarket replacement end links sometimes use a large hex nut on the shaft, allowing you to hold it more securely when installing and removing the nut.

 

[Chester11]

Attached are the latest pics. I was able to remove the end link and install the strut - so the car rolls anyway.

The sway bar is still a mess and I cannot get the rusted nut out. I tried cutting it with a dremel first and ended up cutting the end link off.

Any further suggestions?

 

[spasm3]

Attached are the latest pics. I was able to remove the end link and install the strut - so the car rolls anyway.

The sway bar is still a mess and I cannot get the rusted nut out. I tried cutting it with a dremel first and ended up cutting the end link off.

Any further suggestions?

I would use a nut splitter and then you can push the remaining stud through the hole. You may need to employ the use of a chisel.

 

[Number_35]

Attached are the latest pics. I was able to remove the end link and install the strut - so the car rolls anyway.

The sway bar is still a mess and I cannot get the rusted nut out. I tried cutting it with a dremel first and ended up cutting the end link off.

Any further suggestions?

Can you take a file to the backside there? The remnant of the link is very thin.

Alternatively, can you put a wrench on the nut and spin the entire remnant?

 

[eljefino]

Keep grinding the backside then use a punch to knock the stud through.

 

[Chester11]

Thanks all for the suggestions.

I'm frustrated. I planned for this to be a two hour job, that is now into day 3.

I did order a stubby 18mm impact socket. I might be able to reach the nut with that and a swivel. (The book says OE is supposed to be 17mm, but the after market nut is 18mm for some reason. Of course, my stubby set doesn't have 18.) With the way this job is going I will chip my front teeth with it, and spend $3k on dental work.

Plan B (or Q?) is to take another cut at the knuckle side (the flat part in the photos). I'll probably start with a file - get fired up and cut the whole sway bar off in a rage.

As a side note - I only use a dremel a few times a year - every time the disk breaks and goes flying.

I have to step away for this for a bit - before I do more damage.

 

[KrisZ]

Do you have enough room to drill on the side you cut? You don’t need to drill all the way through, just enough to weaken the bolt.

 

[Chester11]

Do you have enough room to drill on the side you cut? You don’t need to drill all the way through, just enough to weaken the bolt.

I'll try anything at this point. How small should I go? The stud itself is about 3/8 diameter.

(I have stayed away from drilling - because when I attempted this job before I burned through a titanium bit and didn't have much success making a decent hole. The sway bar moves all around - so the bit wanders, I even tried a hammer drill)

 

[KrisZ]

Here is the thread about my saga with a stubborn end link. Start off with a small drill and try to get it as close to center as possible. Then go with a bigger drill bit, but smaller than the shaft. I drilled maybe a 1/4 inch into it and that was enough to twist the remains off. You still have a good nut, in my case I rounded it off.


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/just-when-you-think-a-repair-will-be-easy.309422/