2008 Toyota Yaris M/T - Good deal or money pit?

Batteries that sit dead for a year are trash, may not be a draw, may just be a bad battery that won't hold a charge.
Erratic idle would be normal until the short and long term fuel trim tables get re-established resulting from the dead battery.

144K is a good bit of miles on a clutch, sounds like it needs to be replaced so factor that into the cost.
 
It sound like it needs to be driven longer. The battery being run down caused the computer to lose its settings

It would be worth the chance if it’s sound structurally and mechanically. New battery and check for that draw.

It needs to be driven.
I agree with PimTac. I have a 2014 Mazda2 which I'm told is the same as a Yaris (different year though). The m2 has been great and we've been discussing it in another thread. $1000 won't get you anything today beyond a ordinary tuneup and an oil change so I would certainly chance $1000 for that Yaris. It sounds like most of the Y's problems can be solved with some normal maintenance.

PS I bought a new 4 year full-warranty battery for the M2 about 2 weeks ago at Walmart and it costs $129. The previous battery lasted for 8 (IIRC) years. The first thing that I would do with that Y would be to put a new battery in it and then test for parasitic power draw.
 
With parasitic draw, look the fuse boxes over good first. You'd be surprised what some will do to keep things running by bypassing or tampering. One of my sons finer acquisition had a small piece of u shaped copper wire replacing a fuse. The old penny in the fuse box trick.
 
With parasitic draw, look the fuse boxes over good first. You'd be surprised what some will do to keep things running by bypassing or tampering. One of my sons finer acquisition had a small piece of u shaped copper wire replacing a fuse. The old penny in the fuse box trick.
How long does that work before magic smoke (tm) makes an appearance?

Never mind penny in a fuse box, this is a too good to be true urban legend but .. a .22 caliber fuse. https://darwinawards.com/legends/legends1998-04.html
 
most older cars will have small issues that need addressing, for the price seems to be a good deal. I have 2007 Yaris a/t, 310,000 miles on it, burns no oil. Still use it commute and has been a very reliable vehicle since I’ve owned it ay 195,000 miles.

Mine also has a low idle and sometimes kind of elevated idle for a few seconds then back down and repeat with blower motor and ac on.
 
The clutch of the YARIS is bit quirky when engaging into 1st . Never perfected it . Fun to drive . Not long after purchasing new I put REDLINE MT90 75w90 GL-4 in and shifting got better . Especially into reverse . The 1.5 Lt.r takes a beating . It was a 2 door with hatch . The YARIS was known to have a leaking ( minuscule ) timing chain cover . Can go well over 100,000 miles with proper maintenance . One issue was interior had many rattles 🤪 . Gas mileage averaged 38 m.p.g..
 
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Check for critters in the engine air filter housing and cabin blower ( w/ filter ? ) . Cars that sit for long period of time are a magnet . Turn on blower to see if noise , may indicate debris in the vents and blower . Turned on blower on HIGH for used VIBE and all kinds of items came flying out into cabin . Turned it down .
 
Like most here, I’d say go for it. For $1k you would usually get absolute junk and this sounds like it could be a solid car.
It’s great for younger folks to learn how to drive a M/T - a rare skill nowadays.
 
The only issue with such an older car is parts - some of which Toyota might not even make any longer and you need to go scouting for refurb parts or third party alternatives. Various generations of Yaris have remained in production for quite a while so this is less of a challenge, but given I had to hunt up a refurb starter motor for a 2011 car recently because the model / OEM changed in subsequent editions of the car ..
 
The only issue with such an older car is parts - some of which Toyota might not even make any longer and you need to go scouting for refurb parts or third party alternatives. Various generations of Yaris have remained in production for quite a while so this is less of a challenge, but given I had to hunt up a refurb starter motor for a 2011 car recently because the model / OEM changed in subsequent editions of the car ..
I’m finding this is happening with my 93 Tercel over the last few years. It had a good run of cheap and easy parts availability but those days are coming to and end.

Hopefully OP’s potential car has some time left.
 
The thing to remember, is that EVEN if....these were major issues that on a Yaris parts and procedures wont be terrible.

And the bones are most definitely there.

I would bleed the clutch and change the fluid, new battery, brake shoes and grab your multimeter.

I think itll be a great car when youre done with it
 
My daughter recently became motivated to finish learning to drive, and wants to get her own car. This particular one came up in conversation, when she was talking with a friend of hers, the mom has an old car that's been parked for about a year, which she just wants gone: the mentioned 2008 Toyota Yaris with manual transmission.

She wants $1,000 for it. Absolutely unheard of if all is okay. It's a 5-door hatchback, and has around 230,000 km (144,000 miles), body in good shape for the year, minor rusting. Interior looks excellent. She bought it second hand, used it as her daily commuter, then wanted to get a new car. She apparently tried justifying the new car, asking her mechanic how much life is left on the Yaris, to which he said you'd literally have to beat on it for a long time before it would die. She got her new car anyway, and has had this in the driveway, not moving it at all for nearly a year.

Issue that she's disclosed is there seems to be a parasitic draw, not an issue if started and driven daily, but if left to sit for 3+ days, it will need a boost.

We had a look last week, and boosted it to start it up, but coulnd't take it anywhere as the registration recently expired. After the boost, the RPMs at idle seemed a bit low (500), and then eventually it quit. Boosting again and starting, RPMs seemed to be normal, around 800 to 900 at idle.

We returned this afternoon to drive it after she re-registered it for this purpose. Except things didn't go quite so smoothly.

Low-ish idle RPM again.

I took the parking brake off, and put it into first, but the shifter felt like it didn't actually go all the way in. Not sure if this was just an oddity of this car, I slowly let out the clutch and revved, but it seemed like I wasn't in gear at all. No clutch bite. I tried a few times, still no luck. Then it stalled, while in neutral if I remember it right. I also got the sense the car was "stuck", and thinking that's what it was, we all tried pushing it. No luck.

I figured the brakes weren't releasing, and thought we could try again with my daughter and her friend's mom pushing while I tried to get it moving. No luck in first. But doing a second gear start got the car free. So we thought we would try a text drive, and maybe have luck with first after getting it moving.

We made it down the alley, to an intersection with another alley, I tried first, but no luck, but nearly stalled, not with a gear engaged at all. I revved it up a bit to keep from stalling, tried to get it going in first, and with the mom pushing to help, it seemed like it barely grabbed first, though I couldn't feel it in the clutch at all.

We circled around, with me keeping it in second the rest of the way and I decided to abort the test drive and bring it back. Reverse was okay into the driveway.

We could hear the brakes chirping as we drove, likely they rusted in place.

I know we are going to be dealing with at the least, a new battery, tracing a parasitic draw, new rear shoes, and probably drums as well. This stuff isn't too bad. But my concern is the difficulty with first. Could this be something caused by sitting idle so long? Synchros gone for first? Or is this some common issue on these transmissions?

Don't want to pass up on it if this is a steal, but I don't want to buy it if it's a money pit.

Still need to do the rest of the due diligence anyway (CarFax/lien search), and I need a mechanical inspection report in order to get the insurance company to cover it due to the age.

Thoughts?
Throw out bearing going bad? In many cases the clutch life is dependent on how much the owner "rode" the clutch or smoothly engaged it through the gears.
 
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