2008 Subaru WRX STI, 6854 Miles OCI, Amsoil Euro

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gathermewool

gathermewool

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Location
New England
Car: 2008 Subaru WRX STI

Oil: Amsoil Euro (Low-SAPS) 5W-30

Filter: Subaru OEM (Blue)

Previous Data: The previous oils are, in order from newest to oldest: Amsoil Euro (latest UOA), Amsoil SSO 5W-30, Amsoil SSO 5W-30, Rotella T6. Subaru OEM filter used for all.

Mods: Stage 1 - Boost increased from 14.7 psig to 18 psig; advanced timing, etc. I log often, and everything with respect to the tune looks immaculate, from fuel trims to dynamic advance multiplier to knock values. If you'll notice, my Si numbers have steadily fallen since installing an AEM cold-air intake a couple of oil changes ago.

Driving Habits: Very conservative around town. Daily drive consists of 5 miles of driving through 25 MPH zones, with one brief on-ramp romp over a bridge before taking the first exit to where I work. 2 hr highway trip at least every two weeks.

UOA:
Test8RAW6854shared.jpg


Filter, Cut open:
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DSCN0005.jpg


The TBN isn't surprising, considering the abysmally low Ca. The rest of the add pack (that we can see in this UOA) looks pretty terrible, too.

I bought 12 qts of Amsoil Euro, so what's in the sump now is the as same this latest UOA. Based on this UOA, I plan to do a relatively short run of 4k miles. This oil obviously isn't intended for long drains, especially in application such as mine.

I've decided that I'm going to try Renewable Lubricants HD 5W-40 next. I spoke with the VP, Tim, today and he gave me some specs on the oil.

Zn: 1470 ppm
P:1320 ppm
N2: 990 ppm
Sb: >400 ppm
Cu: Didn't get an exact number, but it's in the HD, non-low-ash formula
Ca: 3360 ppm

It's thicker than I probably need, but I'm looking forward to seeing the results!

Any thoughts?
 
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I also don't plan to send out the next sample for analysis. I'm so disappointed that I don't even care about the results of a 4k run on this oil. My next UOA will most likely be of the RLI, after maybe 6-7k miles for an initial trial run.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Wow, that filter looks terrible too.


It seemed to do its job pretty well, so far as I can tell.

The odd thing is that I remember cutting open the Subaru OEM blue filter from two changes ago and it looking very similar to the old Tokyo Roki filter that included metal endcaps and had what seemed like a better bypass setup.

I've been debating changing filters, but these have the correct bypass setting and seem to produce good UOA results, so I haven't made the decision quite yet.
 
What is antimony? Is it similar to boron or sodium, or is it more like moly and titanium?
 
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Originally Posted By: volk06
What is antimony? Is it similar to boron or sodium, or is it more like moly and titanium?


I believe it's an anti-wear additive, like moly or titanium.
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool


Any thoughts?


I'm not at all sure why you thought a low SAPS oil is a good choice in this engine when we have seen such great results from oils such as Amsoil HDD 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: gathermewool


Any thoughts?


I'm not at all sure why you thought a low SAPS oil is a good choice in this engine when we have seen such great results from oils such as Amsoil HDD 5W-30.



I mentioned it in previous posts, but I bought this for a good price off another BITOG member. Don't take the fact that this oil is not suitable for long drains in this application personally. I'm not blaming Amsoil for my curiosity.
 
"abysmally low Ca and terrible add pack"???

I don't understand what you expected, it is a Euro low SAPS oil. They have less AW additives thus don't need as much detergent. I don't see what was so bad about this UOA other than you don't need a low SAPs oil.

Thanks for posting!
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
"abysmally low Ca and terrible add pack"???

I don't understand what you expected, it is a Euro low SAPS oil. They have less AW additives thus don't need as much detergent. I don't see what was so bad about this UOA other than you don't need a low SAPs oil.

Thanks for posting!


I think I chose my words poorly and it may have offended Pablo - this was not my intent. It would be more appropriate to say that this oil, with it's purpose-built additive package, is not suitable for my application. My initial reaction may have been tainted by the fact that this oil costs 2X+ as much as some oils that, in my application at least, out-perform it.

With that being said, it mentions turbo-charged vehicles on the bottle and online in Amsoil's literature, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I sort of expected the results, but a member on here was offering it for a good savings and I was curious. I don't in any way blame Amsoil for my choice to "test" this oil in what could possibly considered an other-than-intended application; however, I won't recommend this oil to any one, not even those who drive cars with, "sophisticated European engines [that] subject the oil to severe operational conditions."
 
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Yeah, if it were me I'd have gone with their 5w-40 Euro or another oil. JMO.

Is there a turbo in this app? Perhaps not the best combo with 5w-30 Euro, try a different oil.
 
Not offended in the least! Just curious - that's all (and I forgot about the other thread). I guess some people could read this as an Amsoil fail. But the oil held up OK.
 
Yes you went too long on this oil.
I don't think the viscosity is an issue, perhaps the low AW additive levels. From the conservative way you drive I doubt you're seeing high oil temp's. I presume you don't have an oil temp' gauge or OP gauge?

RLI 5W-40 is a very heavy oil, heavier than T6.
If you want to try RLI I'd suggest their 0W-30 which has a HTHSV in the 3.6-3.8cP range; similar viscosity characteristics to M1 0W-40.
 
I noticed a pattern in your UOA report. The oil that was run from around June to January showed better results than the oil from January to June. January and February are the colder months which would explain more start-up wear.
 
Originally Posted By: Loobed


I noticed a pattern in your UOA report. The oil that was run from around June to January showed better results than the oil from January to June. January and February are the colder months which would explain more start-up wear.

A good observation particularly when taken in conjunction with the OP's short commute.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Yeah, if it were me I'd have gone with their 5w-40 Euro or another oil. JMO.

Is there a turbo in this app? Perhaps not the best combo with 5w-30 Euro, try a different oil.


To be fair, I think I’ll give Amsoil another try, but this time with the correct oil.

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Not offended in the least! Just curious - that's all (and I forgot about the other thread). I guess some people could read this as an Amsoil fail. But the oil held up OK.


I used some inappropriately harsh words to describe the results, and that really wasn’t necessary.

I guess you’re right, for being way out of its league, this oil did hold up pretty well, though I really would like to compare this to an HDD Amsoil selection. I’ll be in contact with you within the next few months, Pablo.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes you went too long on this oil.
I don't think the viscosity is an issue, perhaps the low AW additive levels. From the conservative way you drive I doubt you're seeing high oil temp's. I presume you don't have an oil temp' gauge or OP gauge?

RLI 5W-40 is a very heavy oil, heavier than T6.
If you want to try RLI I'd suggest their 0W-30 which has a HTHSV in the 3.6-3.8cP range; similar viscosity characteristics to M1 0W-40.


I agree, and switching to something thicker will be purely to satisfy my curiosity. An ~10cSt@100C oil is probably fine, but I don’t see any reason not to try a 15cSt@100C oil just to compare. If anything, the results will most likely be skewed because of the massive amounts of AW and cleaning additives.

You’re also right that I most likely do not see very high sustained oil temps. The only exception would be times like two weeks ago where I spent a good amount of time boosting up and around “mountain” passages near the Mohonk Preserve in upstate NY. I’d say I was in sustained boost for the entire time, and often at peak when the road cleared, allowing me to really open’er up.

Aside from times like this, and on most work days, the oil has time to just get up to normal operating temp. If I’m feeling frisky (probably 2/5 work days) I’ll achieve max boost in 3rd gear until I reach the apex of the bridge, then shift to 5th and engine brake all the way down to where I take the first exit.

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

Is there a turbo in this app?

Yes. A flat four turbo that puts out ~305 hp stock and a bit more with his mods.
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More info on antimony:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729162#Post729162


Correct, the tune I have ups the boost from stock 14.7# to “stage 1” boost levels of 18#. Stage 1 also changes timing to correspond with the availability of 93 AKI around these parts – Subaru requires 91 AKI.

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
The oil was way too heavy. Try a light 0w-20 next time.
48.gif


-Dennis


Believe it or not, I’ve actually debated using a stout, high HT/HS 5W-20, like what Redline offers, just to see how it compares. I never lug the engine and only really ever get on it in the higher revs, which is where the hydrodynamic wedge pressure would be maximum, possibly allowing for a lower visc oil that would be shear resistant in localized areas.

In other words, something like Redline 5W-20 might provide better protection and performance than a Formula Shell 5W-30.

Originally Posted By: Loobed


I noticed a pattern in your UOA report. The oil that was run from around June to January showed better results than the oil from January to June. January and February are the colder months which would explain more start-up wear.



You’re absolutely right. It’s the same for all of my analyses, throughout the life of the car.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Loobed


I noticed a pattern in your UOA report. The oil that was run from around June to January showed better results than the oil from January to June. January and February are the colder months which would explain more start-up wear.

A good observation particularly when taken in conjunction with the OP's short commute.


I believe fuel dilution and additional cold-clearance blowby has a lot to do with this.
 
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