2007 Pontiac G5GT2.4L 3,739/ 32,557 5W-30 Royal Pu

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Can you tell me exactly what he wrote here, the part in the (( )) not sure I get what he means.
I also heard lately that this oil was not good for an oil cooled aftermarket turbo application, Thoughts ?

Thanks for any help or replys on what you see.
I'll be reading as much as I can here about royal purple, Thanks again !
Code:


RANDY: Thanks for the notes. The Royal Purple seemed to get the job done. ((Universal averages show

typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 6,100 miles on the oil.)) Of course, this car has a turbo

on it, so wear might not match up exactly with averages. Copper is a little high, showing some extra wear at

brass/bronze parts like a bushing or a turbo bearing, but this level could be normal for your engine. The TBN

was strong at 3.4 showing lots of active additive; 1.0 is low. All in all, things look pretty good here, but check

back at the next oil change to start trends.

..........



MAKE/MODEL: 2007 Pontiac G5 GT, turbocharger added

GM 2.4L 4-cyl EcoTec

FUEL TYPE: Gasoline (Unleaded

)

ADDITIONAL INFO:



OIL TYPE& GRADE: Royal Purple

5W-30

MI Oil: 3,739

MI Unit: 32,557





ALUMINUM 2

CHROMIUM 1

IRON 7

COPPER 5

LEAD 0

TIN 5

MOLYBDENUM 6

NICKEL 0

MAGNESIUM 0

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 2

POTASSIUM 2

BORON 2

SILICON 8

SODIUM 388

CALCIUM 2165

MAGNESIUM 46

PHOSPHORUS 706

ZINC 820

BARIUM 0



PROPERTIES

cSt Vis @ 100°C 8.94

SUS Vis @ 210°F 55.6

Flashpoint °F 425

Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0.0

Water % 0.0

Insolubles % 0.1

TBN 3.4
 
I think he is saying your wear levels where typical for a car with 6,000 miles on the oil comparing averages.It seems a little odd with 32,000 miles it would still be breaking in.Where you running it hard?
 
^^ Right.

It sure did shear down.

Flashpoint stayed high, but that's a lot of Sodium in the oil!
 
Originally Posted By: jsnyder49090
I think he is saying your wear levels where typical for a car with 6,000 miles on the oil comparing averages.It seems a little odd with 32,000 miles it would still be breaking in.Where you running it hard?


But he says the RPO was doing its job ?? but has wear for way more miles than on the oil ??
Not running it hard !
This was a 36000 mile freeway drive to Oregon with less than normal boosted time, not beating on it at all.
 
I change it 3000-3500 miles since I have heard a few things about aftermarket turbo'd engines and royal purple. So this is a normal change time frame for right now.
I'd just like to know if this oil and my turbo'd engine get along well together.
 
Really doesn't look that bad. These engines do tend to shear oil and all of the RP tests we've seen have been on the lower end (>9). Doesn't seem to have hurt it at all. If the low viscosity is a concern, try something different maybe with the Honda HTO-06 spec and see how it does.

Based on that TBN you cold likely run it longer if you wanted but I would get a UOA done after an normal use OCI first. Unless this highway run is normal for you, this UOA doesn't really show a true picture.
 
Was this the OE style, API certified Royal Purple or the HPS (non-API certified) or another higher end, high performance oil? It's an important distinction. The HPS is more robust. The lower cost API stuff is Gp III vs PAO and the Synerlec additive for the HPS & raceing oils.

I really don't like the shear either but by the look of the metals, there was no harm done at all. Based on this, you could have run it a LOT longer. Insols low. TBN high. The oil was certainly doing its job. It would't have sheared any more than this if you'd run it out more.

If you didn't have a turbo, I wouldn't worry at about the viscosity all. The turbo indicates you might like spirited driving, so at the ragged edge of thin oils, in the warm climate you are in, you might want a little more viscosity edge to counter higher oil temps. If you won't drive it hard, it's less of a worry.

My advice, worth what you paid for it, is run this fill of RP out (I presume you put the same back in) to 5K and see. I'll go out on a limb and predict that if you go to 5K you will see little, if any, more shear slightly more metal and a little more TBN drop along with slightly higher insols.... as you would expect from a longer run... but still a good UOA.

Most of the Gp III 5W30s will shear this much or more, so you'd really need to step up to a more expensive one if that's a big concern for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Was this the OE style, API certified Royal Purple or the HPS (non-API certified) or another higher end, high performance oil? It's an important distinction. The HPS is more robust. The lower cost API stuff is Gp III vs PAO and the Synerlec additive for the HPS & raceing oils.

I really don't like the shear either but by the look of the metals, there was no harm done at all. Based on this, you could have run it a LOT longer. Insols low. TBN high. The oil was certainly doing its job. It would't have sheared any more than this if you'd run it out more.

If you didn't have a turbo, I wouldn't worry at about the viscosity all. The turbo indicates you might like spirited driving, so at the ragged edge of thin oils, in the warm climate you are in, you might want a little more viscosity edge to counter higher oil temps. If you won't drive it hard, it's less of a worry.

My advice, worth what you paid for it, is run this fill of RP out (I presume you put the same back in) to 5K and see. I'll go out on a limb and predict that if you go to 5K you will see little, if any, more shear slightly more metal and a little more TBN drop along with slightly higher insols.... as you would expect from a longer run... but still a good UOA.

Most of the Gp III 5W30s will shear this much or more, so you'd really need to step up to a more expensive one if that's a big concern for you.




Straight from RP:

Quote:
Even our least expensive API licensed oils are still a proprietary combination of Group IV and Group V base oils and use the most current state of the art additives available.
Though that is an API-SN oil that has chemistry restrictions limiting phosphorous to 800 ppm, we will blend as close to the max as possible and use an extremely high retention version of the zinc and phosphorous anti wear additive.
 
Interpenetrating from Royal Purple's PDS their 5W30 API certified oil either uses quite a bit of group III or it is the biggest mickey mouse blend of PAO and Esters I have seen in the last 10 years.

Take your pick on what you want to believe. It really does not matter much because the oil in the bottle performs as advertised but this leads back to Royal Purple's advertising standards.
 
Regardless of what RP says, there's likely some Group III for solubility. The elimination of Synerlec in the API rated oils will have reduced some of the ester content, too. Their PDS on the API oils no longer lists the pour points, either. The pour points on previous formulations were given, and they were extremely low, among the lowest I've seen, giving at least some indication of a high PAO content. If they've pulled the data from the PDS, I think it's safe to assume that the numbers didn't get better.
 
Highway runs are not typical for this car.
It usually sees 16 blocks to and from work 4 times a day.
I change the oil like stated above at 3000-3500 miles always because the car is lucky to get 6000 miles per year. I just can't leave oil in a car for a whole year.
I did refill with RP and will have another UOA done when this fill get to my normal oil change interval.
We'll see what it looks like then.
Thanks for the help and replies.
 
Last edited:
How the heck does a top-tier synthetic oil only have a 3.4 TBN after 3600 miles?

I'm re-thinking my planned use of Royal Purple this winter...
 
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
How the heck does a top-tier synthetic oil only have a 3.4 TBN after 3600 miles?

I'm re-thinking my planned use of Royal Purple this winter...

Short trips and the API SN version of Royal Purple starts with a not-so-high TBN. If you want the Royal Purple version with high TBN, use the XPS version.
 
Ok, can the pros tell me what oil is better for my car here is another UOA
this is Mobil 1 before uoa was rpyal purple.
M1 was a 2000 mile hiway trip + short trips to work and a dozen 1/4 mile runs
with some leaded 110 mixed with reg fuel, but 700 miles less than the RP change.
Thanks for your time and reply !

MAKE/MODEL: 2007 Pontiac G5 GT, turbocharger added
GM 2.4L 4-cyl EcoTec
FUEL TYPE: Gasoline (Unleaded

RANDY: At first glance, there's nothing too unusual that sticks out in the latest sample from your G5. Copper is still high, but did stay steady. The other wear metals are low until you get to lead, which skyrocketed to 150 ppm. That's a nice round number and it seems a little too round to be from the bearings. Did you use an octane booster or any leaded fuel recently? If not, it's showing bearing wear and a lot of it. No fuel or coolant was present and the TBN was healthy at 3.5 showing plenty of active additive. Watch oil pressure if possible and check back in 3,000 miles.

2007 Pontiac G5 GT 2.4l turbo added
Code:


OIL 5W30 5W30

MOBIL 1 ROYAL PURPLE

MILES IN USE 3,036 3,739

MILES 37,536 32,557

SAMPLE TAKEN 06/16/13 08/01/12

ALUMINUM 3 2

CHROMIUM 1 1

IRON 10 7

COPPER 5 5

LEAD 150 0

TIN 0 5

MOLYBDENUM 70 6

NICKEL 0 0

MANGANESE 1 0

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 0 2

POTASSIUM 0 2

BORON 58 2

SILICON 8 8

SODIUM 85 388

CALCIUM 1200 2165

MAGNESIUM 682 46

PHOSPHORUS 678 706

ZINC 788 820

BARIUM 0 0



cSt Viscosity 57.1 55.6

@ 100°C

SUS Viscosity 9.40 8.94

@ 210°

Flashpoint in °F 415 425

Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0 0

Water % 0 0

Insolubles % 0.2 0.1



TBN 3.5 3.4
 
The M1 is thicker (or sheared less) and gave no added protection in terms of this analysis. Not bad though, RP is so darn expensive I still doubt it is worth it. Go with Edge FST or PP 5w30! Thanks for posting! Seriously you are splitting hairs with all of the top tier oils.
 
You've got an oil cooled snail that spins at 200000rpm and you are using a 30 grade. That in itself means your shearing an already too thin oil.
As far as turbo's go you need an hdeo,if you like 30 grades I'd use rotella conventional. You are running short intervals so I see no need for the extra expense and hdeo's are made for engines with sump oil fed turbos.
Jim made very valid points and the only thing I would add if I may is to use an hdeo. It will cost less for the same result.
And single digit wear numbers are stellar for such a hard worked little motor. Sure the oil sheared but it certainly didn't affect wear. An hdeo would shear less in my opinion.
If you are going to do uoa anyways why not try a less expensive hdeo and have it analyzed. You may discover that you can use a lube that costs less which makes that uoa pay for itself in out of pocket for oil.
If you like synthetics I'd use an hdeo,however rotella blue bottle shears fast in every uoa I've ever seen,so you likely won't gain much there but another viable option is M1 0w-40 or German castrol. Both would hold up well in that turbo and its tough to beat M1 at Walmart prices for jugs.
 
Originally Posted By: CherryGT
I change it 3000-3500 miles since I have heard a few things about aftermarket turbo'd engines and royal purple. So this is a normal change time frame for right now. I'd just like to know if this oil and my turbo'd engine get along well together.

If your concerns have been substantiated or are at least suspected, perhaps another brand of oil is in order? From what I gather here on BITOG RP is a fairly expensive oil and so there must be other oils in the same price range that could serve you better--if you feel RP does not.
 
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