I just cant bring myself to extend my oil changes past 5k, so I stick with dino. If your wanting to push it past 8k stay with a synthetic the money is going to be about the same.
2007 Cobalt switch from synthetic to PYB?
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Couldn't he use Super Tech Syn as a decent middle of the road solution? Cheaper than big brands, a bit more than a good conventional.
Originally Posted By: Tim H.
I was under the impression, from reading in past BITOG posts, that the GM OLM system was the Holy Grail of Oil Change technology of the time? I was under the assumption that if his OLM is 'calibrated' for conventional oils, then what he is seeing for mileage change intervals should be attainable on conventional oil without issue, no?
Most definitely not. The idea behind the OLM is that it calculates your driving patterns based on an army of sensors that plug data to the algorithm that then gives you the % of life (theoretically left in your oil) I am not sure what it is "calibrated" for - although I have heard that you can get it calibrated depending on which way you swing.
My experience in seeing UOA - not only my own but many others where there is still lots of life on the OLM and the oil has become acidic, oxidized or to wear beyond what I would consider acceptable limits. In a generalized world, the OLM will give you an idea of how your oil should be under your driving conditions but the only way to know how it really is doing is with a UOA program. But a single UOA is next to useless if you don't have anything from the same vehicle to compare it to.
I was under the impression, from reading in past BITOG posts, that the GM OLM system was the Holy Grail of Oil Change technology of the time? I was under the assumption that if his OLM is 'calibrated' for conventional oils, then what he is seeing for mileage change intervals should be attainable on conventional oil without issue, no?
Most definitely not. The idea behind the OLM is that it calculates your driving patterns based on an army of sensors that plug data to the algorithm that then gives you the % of life (theoretically left in your oil) I am not sure what it is "calibrated" for - although I have heard that you can get it calibrated depending on which way you swing.
My experience in seeing UOA - not only my own but many others where there is still lots of life on the OLM and the oil has become acidic, oxidized or to wear beyond what I would consider acceptable limits. In a generalized world, the OLM will give you an idea of how your oil should be under your driving conditions but the only way to know how it really is doing is with a UOA program. But a single UOA is next to useless if you don't have anything from the same vehicle to compare it to.
Yeah I too have looked at a lot of UOA's on here but like you said few that are close to my vehicle and mileage. I think I might stick with synthetic. I looked at Walmart again and with PYB being about 15 dollars and QSUD being about 20 dollars I might as well just stick to the synthetic. That extra 5 dollars is not gonna break me.
If my OLM was taking me to 7,500-8,000 miles, I would personally continue using M1 or PP. That is starting to become a lot of miles for a conventional, even for arguably the best one. You can get good deals on PP pretty often. M1 as well. It honestly isn't that much more money over PYB per oil change. What is another $7-10 more an oil change for an oil you know will protect the whole OCI you are going for?
Originally Posted By: tc1446
Couldn't he use Super Tech Syn as a decent middle of the road solution? Cheaper than big brands, a bit more than a good conventional.
At my W/M, the difference between a 5qt jug of Super Tech synthetic & QSUD is less than a dollar. I would use the Quaker State
Couldn't he use Super Tech Syn as a decent middle of the road solution? Cheaper than big brands, a bit more than a good conventional.
At my W/M, the difference between a 5qt jug of Super Tech synthetic & QSUD is less than a dollar. I would use the Quaker State
Originally Posted By: Treb
if he were to use PU with 9000 OCI, what kind of filter would be best? would a pureone be ok or better off with something similar to a bosch distance plus?
Bosch Distance Plus....or...a Mobi1 EP filter.
7,500 OCI or under....the PureOne would work.
if he were to use PU with 9000 OCI, what kind of filter would be best? would a pureone be ok or better off with something similar to a bosch distance plus?
Bosch Distance Plus....or...a Mobi1 EP filter.
7,500 OCI or under....the PureOne would work.
Originally Posted By: Tim H.
I was under the impression, from reading in past BITOG posts, that the GM OLM system was the Holy Grail of Oil Change technology of the time? I was under the assumption that if his OLM is 'calibrated' for conventional oils, then what he is seeing for mileage change intervals should be attainable on conventional oil without issue, no?
I used to think this as well, and used to advise GM owners to follow the OLM.
However, not all API SM or SN oils are created equal.
Some, including some synthetics, are pretty well done after 6K or so, judging by the UOAs in that forum, especially those that include TBN.
This may have been a factor in GM's adoption of their Dexos 1 standard. Presumably oils complying with Dexos 1 will hold up to a drain interval defined by 0% OLM.
The OLM knows nothing about the oil you pour in. It cannot factor in either virgin TBN or TBN retention.
I was under the impression, from reading in past BITOG posts, that the GM OLM system was the Holy Grail of Oil Change technology of the time? I was under the assumption that if his OLM is 'calibrated' for conventional oils, then what he is seeing for mileage change intervals should be attainable on conventional oil without issue, no?
I used to think this as well, and used to advise GM owners to follow the OLM.
However, not all API SM or SN oils are created equal.
Some, including some synthetics, are pretty well done after 6K or so, judging by the UOAs in that forum, especially those that include TBN.
This may have been a factor in GM's adoption of their Dexos 1 standard. Presumably oils complying with Dexos 1 will hold up to a drain interval defined by 0% OLM.
The OLM knows nothing about the oil you pour in. It cannot factor in either virgin TBN or TBN retention.
Your best bet is to look in the manual and see the oil requirements. Most cars don't require synthetic. It won't hurt anything to switch.
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Originally Posted By: Solarent
Most definitely not. The idea behind the OLM is that it calculates your driving patterns based on an army of sensors that plug data to the algorithm that then gives you the % of life (theoretically left in your oil) I am not sure what it is "calibrated" for - although I have heard that you can get it calibrated depending on which way you swing.
I see what your saying, but I just cannot help but feel that it "should" be calibrated for whatever GM factory filled, or whatever oil GM uses in a majority of it's vehicles, notwithstanding also that GM knows most consumers, even ones that do their own oil changes, will use a conventional oil, either at their GM dealership, or a "jiffy" lube kinda place. So seems to me it would be "calibrated" to a conventional, hence my post.
Most definitely not. The idea behind the OLM is that it calculates your driving patterns based on an army of sensors that plug data to the algorithm that then gives you the % of life (theoretically left in your oil) I am not sure what it is "calibrated" for - although I have heard that you can get it calibrated depending on which way you swing.
I see what your saying, but I just cannot help but feel that it "should" be calibrated for whatever GM factory filled, or whatever oil GM uses in a majority of it's vehicles, notwithstanding also that GM knows most consumers, even ones that do their own oil changes, will use a conventional oil, either at their GM dealership, or a "jiffy" lube kinda place. So seems to me it would be "calibrated" to a conventional, hence my post.
Originally Posted By: Tim H.
Originally Posted By: Solarent
Most definitely not. The idea behind the OLM is that it calculates your driving patterns based on an army of sensors that plug data to the algorithm that then gives you the % of life (theoretically left in your oil) I am not sure what it is "calibrated" for - although I have heard that you can get it calibrated depending on which way you swing.
I see what your saying, but I just cannot help but feel that it "should" be calibrated for whatever GM factory filled, or whatever oil GM uses in a majority of it's vehicles, notwithstanding also that GM knows most consumers, even ones that do their own oil changes, will use a conventional oil, either at their GM dealership, or a "jiffy" lube kinda place. So seems to me it would be "calibrated" to a conventional, hence my post.
I'm almost sure the OLM in my car is calibrated for conventional. I will double check. I think that the 2.0 and the 2.4 ecotecs come from the factory filled with Mobil 1 so the OLM for those engines should be calibrated for synthetic. Not positive but that's what I seem to recall.
Originally Posted By: Solarent
Most definitely not. The idea behind the OLM is that it calculates your driving patterns based on an army of sensors that plug data to the algorithm that then gives you the % of life (theoretically left in your oil) I am not sure what it is "calibrated" for - although I have heard that you can get it calibrated depending on which way you swing.
I see what your saying, but I just cannot help but feel that it "should" be calibrated for whatever GM factory filled, or whatever oil GM uses in a majority of it's vehicles, notwithstanding also that GM knows most consumers, even ones that do their own oil changes, will use a conventional oil, either at their GM dealership, or a "jiffy" lube kinda place. So seems to me it would be "calibrated" to a conventional, hence my post.
I'm almost sure the OLM in my car is calibrated for conventional. I will double check. I think that the 2.0 and the 2.4 ecotecs come from the factory filled with Mobil 1 so the OLM for those engines should be calibrated for synthetic. Not positive but that's what I seem to recall.
Originally Posted By: FFeng7
Ok I know I don't post often but I do visit this board everyday and you guys always have the answers that I'm looking for. I have been researching this on this board but I'm still not sure what to do. I have a 2007 Chevy cobalt with the 2.2 ecotec engine. Car has about 80,000 miles on it. Driving conditions are about 90% highway and 10% city and my wife is the primary driver. I have been using Mobil1 or Pennzoil Platinum since we got the car. Except for one OCI of QSGB from the dealer when I had some work done to the transmission. Generally I change the oil when the OLM get to about 25% remaining and she is good about reminding me. That works out to be about 7500-8500 miles. My question is am I wasting money by using synthetic. Can PYB 5w30 pull this off without harm. We would like to keep this car for a while but I hate to spend the money on synthetic if it not providing any more protection then conventional will for this OCI. Thanks guys
FFeng7,
The question for yourself is how many years translates into "a while"???? If it's only gonna be about a few years more then just run the least expensive synthetic in your motor.
As the others have said your OLM doesn't know the difference between the two so if you drive allot of freeway driving then your fine too. I myself do about half n half so my OLM tells me to change the oil out at 6K.
My two cents tells me if you can afford a good synthetic like the ones you mentioned then go for it and to the maximum your OLM tells you to do. Both brands are fantastic either way your still a winner.
Durango
Ok I know I don't post often but I do visit this board everyday and you guys always have the answers that I'm looking for. I have been researching this on this board but I'm still not sure what to do. I have a 2007 Chevy cobalt with the 2.2 ecotec engine. Car has about 80,000 miles on it. Driving conditions are about 90% highway and 10% city and my wife is the primary driver. I have been using Mobil1 or Pennzoil Platinum since we got the car. Except for one OCI of QSGB from the dealer when I had some work done to the transmission. Generally I change the oil when the OLM get to about 25% remaining and she is good about reminding me. That works out to be about 7500-8500 miles. My question is am I wasting money by using synthetic. Can PYB 5w30 pull this off without harm. We would like to keep this car for a while but I hate to spend the money on synthetic if it not providing any more protection then conventional will for this OCI. Thanks guys
FFeng7,
The question for yourself is how many years translates into "a while"???? If it's only gonna be about a few years more then just run the least expensive synthetic in your motor.
As the others have said your OLM doesn't know the difference between the two so if you drive allot of freeway driving then your fine too. I myself do about half n half so my OLM tells me to change the oil out at 6K.
My two cents tells me if you can afford a good synthetic like the ones you mentioned then go for it and to the maximum your OLM tells you to do. Both brands are fantastic either way your still a winner.
Durango
I would go with the pyb. It's cost effective and as already mentioned you olm won't know the difference.
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