2006 Honda Ody. 30K Mi Z1 & SF Z1 replacement

[Laminar Lou]

Code:




ALUMINUM 85

CHROMIUM 1

IRON 116

COPPER 16

LEAD 3

TIN 0

MOLYBDENUM1

NICKEL 1

MAGANESE 3

SILVER 0

TITANIUM 0

POTASSIUM 3

BORON 207

SILICON 14

SODIUM 9

CALCIUM 281

MAGNESIUM 158

PHOSPHORUS86

ZINC 278

BARIUM 6







































85

1

116

16

3

0

1

1

3

0

0

3

207

14

9

281

158

86

278

6

 

[benjamming]

What % is SF Z1 & what % is Honda Z1? So, you ran the Honda Z1 the 1st analysis?
What is the starting point for SF Z1 viscosity & TAN?

 

[Laminar Lou]

Yes the first analysis was 100% Z1. Not sure the Z1 viscosity or TAN starting point. I believe the trans is 5qts (but I don't have the manual in front of me at this moment). I am wondering if the iron is from the differential. I did send this out to Terry Dyson as well.

This is what I did:

7730MI - 12/09/06 - Swapped 2qts of SF Z1 ATF
14,480MI - 5/27/07 - Swapped 1 qt of SF Z1 ATF (was extracting from the dipstick hole on an incline and was too lazy to re-park to get the other 1 qt)

 

[benjamming]

So, you are not wiping the magnetic drain plug clean every time? :no-no:
The online AMSOIL online guide says the AT capacity is 8.5 qts. You don't have enough SF Z1 in there yet to help much. You need > 90%. This will also help in reading the tea leaves by BITOGers; (data to Terry).

How much more SF Z1 fluid do you have? I would highly recommend a full fluid swap. You will arrive at a higher % with less fluid than doing a drain & refill every time & much quicker than through the dipstick.

If you are going to send to Terry, I would just send the oil sample to him instead of another lab's data. You get a whole lot more data.

 

[Laminar Lou]

Thanks for the input. I am out of the SF oil, and unless he is back in business I will have to switch to something else. I plan to take it in to have a pan drop (I don't like messing with AT pan seals).

I use an extractor, because I don't have ramps for this van.

Yeah, I've used Terry's premium kit before. I've got a bunch of prepaid Blackstone kits and I didn't expect to get this result. The manual states that under severe conditions the AT fluid needs to be changed at 30K. I figured it would still be in decent shape, but apparently not.

Any recommendations on fluid brand? I use Amsoil in the Truck, but don't know how well it does in the Hondas.

 

[benjamming]

Honda Z1 really is pathetic. I'm currently running RLI ATF. You could try it or AMSOIL ATF. Both are good oils. Again, I would recommend a complete fluid swap. You won't be dropping the pan on that unit.

 

[The Critic]

Yeah, a pan does not exist on that unit. There's only a magnetic drain plug. You'll need a long handle 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the bolt.

 

[HondaMan]

So much mis-information on this thread.

I just did a drain and fill yesterday. Transmission with a total of 233k miles. Honda of course.
This was only the THIRD drain and fill on the transmission. Only Honda Z1 has ever been used.

Honda had a bad run of transmissions. Had nothing to do with fluid.

There is no pan Lou .... and Lou not cracking that bolt to clean it and being too lazy about anything while spending the money on a useless Blackstone report makes no sense at all.

Don't know how you got you only swapped 2 qts... you do not need ramps to do this either.

SF Z1 was very, very good as I can personally attest. But if you knew Mola at all, he would tell you that you that Honda Z1 was gonna do just as well any and every day.

 

[benjamming]

HondaMan,

I've never said that an AT won't make it w/o frequent changs or only on certain fluids. However, it will improve odds of certain failures. The Honda Z1 fluid is pathetic especially in the oxidation area. Does this mean that it will cause the AT to explode (or implode)? That is debatable. Anecdotal evidence doesn't do much for me. However, empirical data will tell the truth so not sure how that is a waste. Glad you are here to set us free!