2005 Accord 2.4L - Oil Recommendation Wanted

Burning oil kills the effectiveness of a catalytic converter it doesn’t clog it. Running RICH will overheat it and may melt enough of the “honeycomb” to clog it. I bet his converter is nonfunctional by now but flowing exhaust well.
In my case it did. Back pressure was measured over 5 PSI. The car was not able to keep up with traffic.
 
Try the Restore & Protect in it. My 07 burned about a quart every 1000 miles and I've been using it for this current oil change and after a few thousand miles it seems to be slowing a bit finally. I need a bit more time/miles to test further but so far, so good. The issue with the K24 was usually sticking rings. Changing the PCV did nothing for my consumption, nor did thicker oils or high mileage oils. My catalytic converter was faulty for years, and finally got so bad it was causing acceleration and drivability issues. After replacing it, it accelerates so much better and I finally have no check engine light after owning it for almost 10 years.
 
Carbon blocked? Who / how does anyone measure back pressure in a converter? Do shops have a rig for this?
The honda accord has a rear oxygen sensor mounted on top of the catalytic converter. I used an OTC back pressure kit to measure the back pressure.

Not sure why you would think oil entering the catalyst cannot clog up the honeycomb. Yes, it can. Not immediately, but over time.
 
The honda accord has a rear oxygen sensor mounted on top of the catalytic converter. I used an OTC back pressure kit to measure the back pressure.

Not sure why you would think oil entering the catalyst cannot clog up the honeycomb. Yes, it can. Not immediately, but over time.
I've heard many times over the years people saying it can. In fact, isn't that why ZDDP was reduced in oils? To reduce or delay clogging cat?
 
First up, the plug fouling from my first post. #4 (far left) is obviously having issues. I originally thought oil fouling, but it's not wet. Maybe carbon fouling?

View attachment 303207

Thanks for the pictures.
The camshafts look O.K. although there is some wear, but I guess that's normal for over 200K miles.
Interesting spark plugs. It looks like to me only 1st and 3rd cylinder work properly. 2nd and 4th have some issues. The 2nd one looks like recently changed or overheating. The 4th one looks oil or carbon faulted.
I think the 2nd and 4th cyl. plugs were replaced because they don't have rust in the base like 1st and 3rd cyl. plugs. You can switch 2nd and 4th cylinder plugs to see how they would look after 500-1000 miles.

Are you planing to do oil analysis on the Valvoline Restore and Protect oil?
If not or even if you're planning to do oil analysis, pour in the last tank of gas, before you change the Valvoline Restore and Protect oil, Yamaha Outboard Ring Free Plus Fuel Additive and refuel with Shell V-Power.
 
The honda accord has a rear oxygen sensor mounted on top of the catalytic converter. I used an OTC back pressure kit to measure the back pressure.

Not sure why you would think oil entering the catalyst cannot clog up the honeycomb. Yes, it can. Not immediately, but over time.

Yes, it surely can mess up the catalyst. It happened to me some time back Had the system replaced and this vehicle ran like new once again.
 
I've heard many times over the years people saying it can. In fact, isn't that why ZDDP was reduced in oils? To reduce or delay clogging cat?
No, the phosphorus in the ZDDP poisons the catalyst metal and renders it ineffective as a catalyst. It doesn't clog the substrate, that takes ash. Or such excess fuel that you've melted it.
 
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The honda accord has a rear oxygen sensor mounted on top of the catalytic converter. I used an OTC back pressure kit to measure the back pressure.

Not sure why you would think oil entering the catalyst cannot clog up the honeycomb. Yes, it can. Not immediately, but over time.

Yes, it surely can mess up the catalyst. It happened to me some time back Had the system replaced and this vehicle ran like new once again.
It’s metallic zinc and other elements in oil SMOKE That kill an element. I can’t see how oil…liquid oil, unburned intact liquid oil can make its way into a catalytic converter. So a new converter helped. How does that prove oil did the damage and why didn’t the new converter die? No more oil getting there?
 
It’s metallic zinc and other elements in oil SMOKE That kill an element. I can’t see how oil…liquid oil, unburned intact liquid oil can make its way into a catalytic converter. So a new converter helped. How does that prove oil did the damage and why didn’t the new converter die? No more oil getting there?
If its not the oil consumption that is causing it to become clogged causing excessive back pressure, what else could it be? The fuel trims were normal prior until the catalyst was clogged.

The oil deposits reduce the converter's efficiency in reducing harmful emissions and restrict exhaust flow, leading to reduced engine performance and the potential for the internal structure to melt or break apart

As I had mentioned earlier, it takes time to clog the catalyst with oil consumption. It is misfire is what causes immediate damage to the converter.
 
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Like I said, if not mistaken. I wasn't sure. I was close though. So, 5W20 it is. My 13' CRV K-24 takes 0W20, but it will run fine on 5W30. All has to due with CAFE standards of the particular year. You also have the K-24 engine in that 05' Accord..... One of the best Honda ever built.
Our beloved '06 Acura TSX has a measley 240K on the clock. Steady diet of m1 5w30 at 4500 OCIs.
I never even check the oil; no reason.
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