2005 Accord 2.4L - Oil Recommendation Wanted

[50yr Street Mech]

A few rounds of BG PN 109 will clean that engine up, especially the rings. After you run 2 or 3 rounds of that, then run whatever the oil cap tells you to run, which should be 5W30, if not mistaken for that year., full synthetic. 3-4K oil & filter changes.

 

[Spring Break '92]

A few rounds of BG PN 109 will clean that engine up, especially the rings. After you run 2 or 3 rounds of that, then run whatever the oil cap tells you to run, which should be 5W30, if not mistaken for that year., full synthetic. 3-4K oil & filter changes.

Do you mean using EPR 109 for 2 or 3 oil changes after the initial treatment? Or back to back with cheap oil after the first one? I am pretty sure you mean the former. I actually just used it this past oil change in my K24.

 

[nwjones18]

I’ve been running 5w-30 syn blend in ours for 10 years with no issues. Change interval is normally 5-7k and it’s usually right at 1qt low when due for change

 

[M1Accord]

Is Valvoline Restore and Protect the new name for V High Mileage?

 

[50yr Street Mech]

2 or 3 treatments of EPR 109. Cheap oil. 3K oil changes. Worked on my 13' K-24 engine. 615K on it now. No oil burning.

 

[Japanese]

Is Valvoline Restore and Protect the new name for V High Mileage?

No, it's completely different oil. Valvoline Restore & Protect. It's popular for cleaning the engine internals at level unknown untill now. It supposed to clean 100% of the engine after 4 oil changes.
That helps many engines to stop burning oil because it frees piston oil rings.

 

[TomYoung]

Is Valvoline Restore and Protect the new name for V High Mileage?

No

 

[50yr Street Mech]

As per BITOGER'S...it is an exceptionally good oil to clean engines, and keep them clean. Especially the piston rings, amongst other related parts. 5 star product. Personally, I have never used it,,,,,,yet.....but one day...when my stash of endless 5qt jugs runs dry.....I will give it a go. May take a few years. Yeah, I'm always buying something on sale, full synthetic, online with free delivery. BITOG hoarder ??? Probably....But they are quality oils : Castrol / Valvoline / Pennzoil/ Mobil 1/ Quaker State

 

[TomYoung]

A few rounds of BG PN 109 will clean that engine up, especially the rings. After you run 2 or 3 rounds of that, then run whatever the oil cap tells you to run, which should be 5W30, if not mistaken for that year., full synthetic. 3-4K oil & filter changes.

The oil cap says 5w20

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Like I said, if not mistaken. I wasn't sure. I was close though. So, 5W20 it is. My 13' CRV K-24 takes 0W20, but it will run fine on 5W30. All has to due with CAFE standards of the particular year. You also have the K-24 engine in that 05' Accord..... One of the best Honda ever built.

 

[Unify4490]

IMO.... 1. Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30; (3x to 5x); afterwards

2. Any full synthetic xw30 on sale, often.

Source: owned a '04, 4-cyl. Accord from mile 3 to 189,000 miles. Stupidly sold it to make room, when I should have been a card hoarder and kept it, lmao.

PS, tap the unlock button on the fob once, then twice and hold ==== open the car windows.

Lots of other hacks, tips, repair hints, etc on the major honda forums. And don't use the physical key---use the fob---the teeth inside the lock cylinder wear easily

This is the coolest thing ever. My jaw just dropped watching this happen lol.

This ^. Plus replace the PCV & the breather hose it attaches to.

I just resolved a horrendous oil burning problem in my neighbors 03 CR-V. I was burning 1 quart in 300 miles. Twice as bad as your oil burning.

I switched it from 5w20 Maxlife to 5w30 Maxlife. The change to 5w30 slowed the oil consumption to 1/3 quart in 300 miles.

Then I replaced the PCV and the breather hose that attaches to the PCV. The old PCV was dirty, but still partly functional. The old breather hose was shrunken and collapsed at one of it's angle bends. The collapsed breather hose was the main problem.

With a new breather hose and new PCV the oil consumption stopped completely. I will continue using 5w30.

However, if I had a do over, I'd have put 5w30 Valvoline Restore and Protect in it because that would have the added benefit of cleaning pistons, rings, valves. All of which would benefit from some cleaning after the prior oil burning.

During your first use of Restore and Protect, change the oil filter early. Like around 1000 miles. At 5000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first, change the oil and filter. Thereafter, change R&P oil and filter at 5000 miles or 1 year.

Also, I recall reading somewhere that CR-V (with high mileage) are prone to camshaft failure. For this reason (and other reasons) you should use a full synthetic oil in a CR-V.

After you use 5w30 R&P for 4 oil change intervals, I suggest then using either of these oils:

5w30 Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic
5w30 Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic

See my update below. I think you may be on to something!!!!

 

[Unify4490]

I spent a few hours this morning with the car. I put another 300ish miles on the car this week, and made it through about a half a quart of oil. I bought some Valvoline Restore and Protect and a M1 filter for the car this week, along with a valve cover gasket so I could pull that and take a peek.

First up, the plug fouling from my first post. #4 (far left) is obviously having issues. I originally thought oil fouling, but it's not wet. Maybe carbon fouling?

Next I pulled the valve cover. Not terrible for a 215k motor that I have zero idea of the history of. No abnormal cam wear, everything looks and feels good to me anyway.

Out with whatever this trash is. Oil is horribly contaminated. I saved a sample to be sent off to Blackstone. Probably won't make a good salsa.

Upon starting the car after the oil change, I noticed oil on the driveway from the tailpipe. Not something I've noticed before. I had the same issue on my Silverado, caused by a bad PCV valve. I figured I'd pull mine and clean it. Forgot pictures, but there was a decent amount of crud. Figured I'd order a new one for good measure later.

After the oil change, I did a compression test. All 4 cylinders read 150-160 dry. I didn't bother with a wet test since I wasn't upset by that compression, and they were consistent. No pics, unfortunately.

I drove the car around to get it up to temp. Right off the bat, the car is quieter and smoother with the Valvoline Restore and Protect. Many years ago I had a Jeep with a 4.0 that sounded like an old tractor. I got recommended Rotella T5 HDEO for it, and the difference was night and day. This wasn't that drastic, but was clearly noticeable. Pleased with the Valvoline Restore and Protect so far.

I came back to post my findings as an update, and noticed a post where Carlostrece had a similar issue on a CRV that was solved with a bad PCV valve and collapsed PCV tube. I ran outside and lo and behold, it's flat as a pancake:

Going to get a new PCV and hose shipped to the house and install them soon. I'll update about oil consumption with the Valvoline Restore and Protect in a week or so, after I've put some miles on the car.

 

[ammolab]

With this kind of excessive oil consumption, sooner or later the catalytic converter will be clogged and the engine will lose power. I would definitely run Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 for the life of the engine.

Burning oil kills the effectiveness of a catalytic converter it doesn’t clog it. Running RICH will overheat it and may melt enough of the “honeycomb” to clog it. I bet his converter is nonfunctional by now but flowing exhaust well.

 

[melk]

Hey looks like my pcv hose on my 2007

 

[Carlostrece]

I used an Oreilly Microgard PCV because it cost $14. Also because I live near an Oreilly store so it was convenient.

The Microgard PCV (made in China) looks well made and is probably fine. However, because the PCV is difficult to access and change, I wish I'd purchased a Gates or NAPA (made in USA) $30 because I'd have more confidence aka more peace of mind.

You can purchase a Gates hose or OEM Genuine Honda hose online or from NAPA. Maybe also from Oreilly. A Gates hose is expensive. An OEM Genuine Honda hose is very expensive. I think the Gates/NAPA hose is just as good as an OEM Genuine Honda hose, but I purchased an OEM Genuine Honda hose because it was convenient.

I don't know anything about other autostores because there are no others in my area. Except Walmart, if you can call it an autostore.

Don't try to order the hose based on vehicle year and model because you might get the wrong hose (sometimes car makers change parts designs midway through model year).

The 1st time I purschased a breather hose (using model year and submodel) I received the wrong hose. I had to return it and reorder (using VIN #) to get the correct hose. I recommend you use VIN # when you order parts, especially the hose.

You should watch a "How to DIY" video (for correct model year) about how to replace PCV and crankcase breather hose (hose that PCV attaches to). On a CR-V it's more complicated than you'd expect due to all the stuff in the way.

By contrast my Buick has such easy access to PCV that a teenager could easily replace its PCV without needing instructions. Also, my Buick has no hose. So less to go wrong.

 

[Carlostrece]

Now that you're using Valvoline Restore and Protect, it's more important than ever to have a good oil filter that filters fine particles. 30 microns @ 99% is acceptable, IMO.

25 microns @ 99% is ideal, IMO. Microgard Select for example.

23 microns @ 99% is ideal, IMO. NAPA Gold for example. NG also has slightly more filtration material and slightly more pleats, which means it can hold slightly more debris.

There are also many other excellent brands of filters made by Premium Guard (rebranded as autostore house brands, and as Valvoline brand). Each brand has a basic line and a premium line of filters. It's the premium line that's excellent.

For NAPA brand filters, NAPA Gold is premium.
For Oreilly Microgard brand filters, Microgard Select is premium.
For Premium Guard brand filters, Premium Guard XL is premium.

I could continue to list the names of other autostores housebrands premium line of filters, but I'm going to only mention NAPA & Oreilly because those are the only autostores near me. So those two autostores I'm most familiar with their product lines names, but AFAIK all other national autostore chains also offer excellent housebrand filters made by Premium Guard. The key is to buy their premium line of housebrand filter.

I don't recall the details of Mobil 1 oil filter, but I know it's not made by Premium Guard. I don't recall how fine the M1 filters. Hopefully others (perhaps @Glenda W.) will weigh in on how good Mobil 1 oil filter is and whether it filters fine enough for your 1st use of VRP.

Although I don't recall the intimate details of Mobil 1 oil filter, I do know that I didn't think it was good enough for my car(s), especially when I could buy a superior Oreilly Select filter for less money, or an even more superior NAPA Gold for equal money (compared to Mobil 1 filter).

VRP will loosen debris that will circulate in the oil, especially during your 1st use of VRP. You need an oil filter that filters fine enough to catch most of the junk. I'm skeptical if a Mobil 1 oil filter will filter fine enough.

 

[melk]

I run M1 filters on my vehicles which all run Valvoline Restore and Protect and haven’t had any blow up yet

 

[Carlostrece]

I run M1 filters on my vehicles which all run Valvoline Restore and Protect and haven’t had any blow up yet

Blowing up and what's ideal are two different things.

What is the Mobil 1 oil filter rating for filtration efficiency X microns @ 99% of M1 filter? What is X?

If X is 30 (ideally less than 30) microns @ 99% then the M1 filter is good enough (but I'd still prefer a NAPA Gold for other technical reasons).

Maybe M1 filter is good or acceptable for filtration efficiency, or maybe not. I don't remember what it is. I used to know back when I researched all brands of oil filters, but eventually I forgot the details of the non Premium Guard filters.

At this point, my brain only remembers intimate tech details of NAPA Gold, Microgard Select, and Premium Guard XL info because those are the filters I use. I settled on those 3 because they're the best filters that are conveniently available in my local area.

 

[facility1]

how are your plug wires??

 

[Carlostrece]

how are your plug wires??

That's a good question. My old high miles Buick 3800 ran way better after getting new NAPA premium plug wires. My old high miles Jeep 4L ran way better (better than new) with new MSD high performance plug wires and a new high output coil. More power and better gas mileage.

I've had best results with Autolite single platinum plugs.

Copper plugs wear out fast. Single platinum last twice as long with platinum plating only on the one part that wears out fastest. Double platinum last longer yet with platinum plating on both parts that get spark. Iridium last the longest.

The type that wear out the fastest (copper) conduct the best. So best performance and gas mileage. The type that last the longest (iridium) conduct the least. So worst performance and gas mileage. The platinum options are a middle ground compromise.

Autolite single platinum work best in my Buick 3800 and Jeep 4L. Single platinum lasts long enough (60K miles) and performs very well in Buick and Jeep (more power and gas mileage that double platinum or iridium). I assume the same would apply to Honda and other brands of cars because it's physics.

Autolite makes all types. Copper, single platinum, double platinum, iridium. I recommend single platinum if you're willing to replace plugs every 60K miles. Otherwise double platinum if you want them to last longer (and are willing to give up a little power and gas mileage). I'm not a fan of iridium plugs because they reduce power and gas mileage too much, IMO.

I use Autolite single platinum in Buick 3800 and Jeep 4L There are probably also other good brands that make single platinum type plugs. If there are single platinum plugs available for CR-V, then that's what I'd try.

As for plug wires, I've had excellent results from NAPA premium plug wires. The NAPA premium plug wires are at least as good as OEM (maybe better than OEM). MSD plug wires are a signifigant upgrade when combined with an upgraded high output coil. Reasonably affordable too, IMO.

Better spark gives more complete combustion, which means more power and gas mileage, and a cleaner topend.

P.S. - if you upgrade coil and plug wires with MSD, then use a slighter wider than stock plug gap to benefit from longer (larger) more powerful spark. This works especially well with single platinum plugs.