2002 Subaru WRX - Redline 10w30 - 4982 miles

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This is the second UOA on this vehicle.
The first numbers are from the first UOA using Redline 10w40 with 4131 miles on the oil. The second numbers are for this UOA using 4 qts. Redline 10w30 and 1 qt. Redline 20w50 with 4982 miles on the oil. Vehicle had total of 35050 at time of this UOA. I may have driven the car a little harder this time around, as in revving to redline more often, but otherwise driven about the same.

iron 4/2
chromium 0/0
Lead 3/7
copper 7/7
tin 1/6
aluminum 2/3
nickel 0/0
silver 0/0
silicon 13/9
boron 1/1
sodium 15/28
magnesium 12/10
calcium 2524/2691
barium 0/0
phosphorus 1181/1150
zinc 1352/1301
moly 410/380
titanium 0/0
vanadium 0/0
potassium 0/0
fuel vis @ 100c 14.35/12.31
water 0/0
glycol neg/neg
TBN 5.75/5.57
oxid 31/29
nitr 26/25
 
Solid results. Iron is better, but lead is a tad worse. Everything looks good. TBN is still strong. These Subaru's do wear low though so I'm not blown away here by Redline's performance. How would you describe the driving conditions?
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Fantastic numbers. Those iron numbers are impressive. The more I look at these things the more I am positive that Mobil 1 is doing a terrible job with the irons-its probably just corrosion-but still. But anyway-great numbers for the Sube.
 
I wonder what caused the tin to spike up on the second interval?

Looks like this engine liked the 10w40 a bit better, although it's hard to say for sure since you mention you drove it harder on this 10w30 run too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
Solid results. Iron is better, but lead is a tad worse. Everything looks good. TBN is still strong. These Subaru's do wear low though so I'm not blown away here by Redline's performance. How would you describe the driving conditions?
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I drive about 40 miles round trip to work 5 days a week. It's mostly highway and I average 80mph on my way to work in the early morning and about 60 on the way home. Quite a few errands around town, some of them short trips that don't fully get the oil up to temp. I try to get out a few times on the weekend to really wring her out. During those times it sees lots of full throttle accelerations up to the redline in each gear, hard braking, and hard cornering. But the car is never abused. I always warm it up completely before driving like this.
 
I'd stick with RL. It's working well. The Fe numbers are excellent as Al has said and with M1, they would most likely be 3x as high. Plus, Redline does the best job with keeping your engine clean.
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No mods. The engine is bone stock. I've been wanting to add a Cobb exhaust and ECU reflash but just haven't done it so far.
 
I like Red Line and am using it in my car but for this application, I don't know if there is a real benefit.
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All these Soobs, even highly modified and track-driven cars show low wear ... even using dino oil.

Tin and copper together make brass and bronze. Bronze has more tin in it than brass.

Odd that tin would spike while copper remained the same. I bet the copper leaching is more of a constant while tin is physical wear.
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Harrydog you're fine with Red Line but probably could get the same results with other, less expensive oils.

--- Bror Jace
 
I don't know anything about these engines, but tin is also often used in babbitt (main bearing) material. To see the tin spike with the lead would not give me a good feeling.
 
Lead 3/7
copper 7/7
tin 1/6
aluminum 2/3
nickel 0/0
silver 0/0
silicon 13/9
boron 1/1
sodium 15/28
Did you add any fuel treatment or adds with the oil?

When lead JUMPS OTHER metals will follow if its berings... Hummmmm, just a guess... maybe dirt
dunno.gif

Lead up Tin up copper same maybe something had affected the copper de-activators/??? the other metal that jumps is Tin... I NEVER like it above 1 o r 2, below 1 is better, and ZERO is best... TIN is the biggie here... It's all linked to Tin.

donno, I would say since all other metals are FINE that it is maybe related to Sodium.... hummmm
That's also dirt or other problems it appears like not... some kind of dirt maybe!

This is where it would be handy to KNOW the RATIOS of wear. A trained eye can say for sure what exactly is going on...
Hey, maybe.... well I donno

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I donno the ratios...
Could be related to Pistons bering issue
???
Maybe...

[ January 02, 2004, 12:08 AM: Message edited by: Robbie Alexander ]
 
Amazing. Almost no iron at all. I believe I have read somewhere that the newer soobs (>1997 ?) have a molybdenum coating on some of the parts (cylinder walls, piston rings maybe?) which is supposed to reduce wear rates and friction. Don't trash Mobil though, I think the price/performance ratio is not bad. How much does this RL oil cost? (Probably an arm and a leg.)

Also, I think the 10w30 blend with a qt of 20w50 did quite well, even 2ppm (-100%) less iron. I usually replace burnt off 10w oil with 20w50 to prevent thinning/shearing down in older oil, so it is assuring to be reminded that mixing viscosities is not a bad practice.

[ January 03, 2004, 02:08 AM: Message edited by: giant_robo ]
 
quote:

The first numbers are from the first UOA using Redline 10w40 with 4131 miles on the oil. The second numbers are for this UOA using 4 qts. Redline 10w30 and 1 qt. Redline 20w50 with 4982 miles....
iron 4/2

So the 2 ppm iron corresponds to the 10w30 + 20w50 mix.
 
Hmmm. Now yo've got me wondering about the increased tin and lead.
I'll be doing another UOA in a couple of months with straight 10w30, so it'll be interesting to see what happens.
 
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