2002 Chevy Express - Suggestions/Recommendations on Deferred Maintenance

[Clarkbug]

Hello all.

Just had a family member give us a 2002 Chevy Express 3500. Its quite a beast, I have to say, but should serve as a great pickup truck replacement.

For the past few years, its just been sitting under cover due to health problems with the previous owner, and it only has about 66k miles on it now. I have fairly detailed records of most of the maintenance/service that has been performed, but am looking for some input/recommendations on where to start.

I am NOT a GM guy, so really dont even know what parts are recommended to use for anything engine wise (its got the 5.7 in it). I did put new tires on it since the old ones were pretty cracked on the sidewall, and the place that put them on said I have a leaking front shock and they didnt want to try and mess with an alignment due to crusty control arms. Mostly worried if they started adjusting it was going to get expensive.

My thoughts are that I should probably swap most of the fluids out (coolant, brake fluid, transmission, rear end), but havent done any looking for suggestions on what is OK to use here. The radiator says DexCool, but I thought there were some bad things that happened with that stuff....

I also dont know who makes a halfway decent front end component anymore. I typically buy the MOOG stuff from RockAuto, but am open to other suggestions.

Im also thinking a set of plugs/wires is in order since the ones there are originals as far as I can tell, but dont know if there is more that I should be looking for at the same time.

Appreciate any assistance/thoughts anyone has!

 

[LenZee]

Check out the underbody brake lines,transmission,fuel ect for rust first.

 

[clinebarger]

Intake gaskets if they haven't been done, Use the metal carrier Fel-Pro gaskets. Look up Cam Retard Offset for proper Distributor installation.

Any quick connect coolant connection needs deleted or replaced.

 

[captainbeandip]

Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on stuff. Definitely yes on changing all of the fluids and what the other guys have said.

I don't know the complete history with Dexcool, but I do remember it having a bad rep when it was new, but that was long, long ago. Now it's generally accepted as being good stuff, and similar to whatever all of the other manufacturers have settled on. It's commonly available and is relatively cheap, so I think I'd stick with it.

A 3500 is a beast, and if it's in good shape it should serve you well for many years to come.

Interesting tidbit about those... They were the last vehicle in the USA to be available with sealed beam headlights. It's an old-school design, but it's good. Chevy keeps threatening to discontinue and replace them with something more modern/European looking, but those deadlines keep getting pushed back, and they keep on cranking them out.

 

[clinebarger]

Interesting tidbit about those... They were the last vehicle in the USA to be available with sealed beam headlights. It's an old-school design, but it's good. Chevy keeps threatening to discontinue and replace them with something more modern/European looking, but those deadlines keep getting pushed back, and they keep on cranking them out.

Depends on the trim level, Higher trims didn't have sealed beams.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Flush the coolant and replace with Peak 10x. The Lisle coolant funnel is awesome. If you replace the thermostat, use GM OE.

For the spark plugs, use AC Delco Iridium (made by NGK) along with NGK wires (or you could use the OE wires if you're willing to spend that much)

Delphi and CTR (not sold by Rock Auto) are both good choices for suspension parts if you can't get OE. Rock Auto does still sell the GM OE shocks, if they need to be replaced. Otherwise, you can upgrade to Bilstein.

If your transmission doesn't have a drain plug, get an aftermarket pan that has one. Any Dexron VI will work fine in that transmission. Maxlife is good stuff. The Castrol ATF/CVT combo is probably OK to use in that transmission. But any modern LV that says Dexron VI will be fine.

Bosch ESI6 is good brake fluid, but it's more important to do it regularly than what brand name fluid you use.

 

[Dave9]

Fluids yes, depending on when last changed, prudent to do all of them. The owner's manual should list types and capacities.

New belt(s), maybe hoses, and check the suspension bushings, tie rod/steering/etc boots for cracks and leaks.

I don't buy the tire shop's excuse for too crusty to do an alignment. I mean if it needed a bolt/cam kit(s) and an angle grinder (wire wheel) to clean up slightly, it might have been more than they were willing to do, but that's maybe $30 and they should have at least checked the alignment and told you whether it needed done!

Spark plugs and wires, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do when you get around to it, but if not misfiring right now, there is no rush.

Do you know for certain that you need new suspension parts? With only 66K mi you may not yet, depending on how it was used previously, though do at least check the bushings as mentioned above, and check play on the tie rod ends and ball joints, and of course if one shock is leaking, may be time to replace all.

Get it on a lift and inspect all areas for wear and rust damage, particularly brake lines. If nothing else, it needs to be able to stop, every time.

 

[Clarkbug]

Check out the underbody brake lines,transmission,fuel ect for rust first.

Its definitely rusty/crusty. The brake lines for the rear were replaced from the ABS module to the back axle, along with all the hardware/drums/etc. a few years back when they failed. Same with transmission cooler lines.

Intake gaskets if they haven't been done, Use the metal carrier Fel-Pro gaskets. Look up Cam Retard Offset for proper Distributor installation.

Any quick connect coolant connection needs deleted or replaced.

This one is a new one to me. Ill have to look this stuff up. For the distributor, its not as simple as a cap/rotor? I am used to playing with them on much older 4 cylinder tractors, its my first time with a smallblock.

No idea if there are any coolant quick connects.

Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on stuff. Definitely yes on changing all of the fluids and what the other guys have said.

I don't know the complete history with Dexcool, but I do remember it having a bad rep when it was new, but that was long, long ago. Now it's generally accepted as being good stuff, and similar to whatever all of the other manufacturers have settled on. It's commonly available and is relatively cheap, so I think I'd stick with it.

A 3500 is a beast, and if it's in good shape it should serve you well for many years to come.

Interesting tidbit about those... They were the last vehicle in the USA to be available with sealed beam headlights. It's an old-school design, but it's good. Chevy keeps threatening to discontinue and replace them with something more modern/European looking, but those deadlines keep getting pushed back, and they keep on cranking them out.

Thanks for that info! What is in there now is an interesting shade of....everything. So definitely needs to be done. Ill see what I can get at the local parts store and add it to my growing list of colors of coolant on the shelf. (Have blue, pink, green, red, etc.)

Depends on the trim level, Higher trims didn't have sealed beams.

Its the LS trim. I haven't even paid attention to the headlights yet. Ill take a look...

Flush the coolant and replace with Peak 10x. The Lisle coolant funnel is awesome. If you replace the thermostat, use GM OE.

For the spark plugs, use AC Delco Iridium (made by NGK) along with NGK wires (or you could use the OE wires if you're willing to spend that much)

Delphi and CTR (not sold by Rock Auto) are both good choices for suspension parts if you can't get OE. Rock Auto does still sell the GM OE shocks, if they need to be replaced. Otherwise, you can upgrade to Bilstein.

If your transmission doesn't have a drain plug, get an aftermarket pan that has one. Any Dexron VI will work fine in that transmission. Maxlife is good stuff. The Castrol ATF/CVT combo is probably OK to use in that transmission. But any modern LV that says Dexron VI will be fine.

Bosch ESI6 is good brake fluid, but it's more important to do it regularly than what brand name fluid you use.

I wasnt sure if OE are the best way to go, or if its worth the money to go to a Bilstein B6. I dont want to cheap out given the size of this thing, but I also am not planning to put that many miles on it. It just needs to be reliable for when it does need to hit the road. I was thinking of AC Delco plugs, but thats good to know that they are actually NGKs. It has Packard wires on it now.

Any tips on actually getting the plugs out? I had the doghouse off already and looks like I can get the back four from inside, but the fronts might be more challenging...

I was wondering about the Transmisison fluid, since I think this is still Dexron III listed. Not sure about the drain pan, but Im guessing I should drop that also to do the filter?

Fluids yes, depending on when last changed, prudent to do all of them. The owner's manual should list types and capacities.

New belt(s), maybe hoses, and check the suspension bushings, tie rod/steering/etc boots for cracks and leaks.

I don't buy the tire shop's excuse for too crusty to do an alignment. I mean if it needed a bolt/cam kit(s) and an angle grinder (wire wheel) to clean up slightly, it might have been more than they were willing to do, but that's maybe $30 and they should have at least checked the alignment and told you whether it needed done!

Spark plugs and wires, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do when you get around to it, but if not misfiring right now, there is no rush.

Do you know for certain that you need new suspension parts? With only 66K mi you may not yet, depending on how it was used previously, though do at least check the bushings as mentioned above, and check play on the tie rod ends and ball joints, and of course if one shock is leaking, may be time to replace all.

Get it on a lift and inspect all areas for wear and rust damage, particularly brake lines. If nothing else, it needs to be able to stop, every time.

Tire shop was doing me a bit of a favor and squeezing me in kinda suddenly based on some other travel we had. What they told me was that if they started getting into it, they would probably have to start tearing things apart and werent sure if they would be able to get it done in time for our other travels. They mostly just said they couldnt set the camber, but did tweak the toe. So I got something out of it anyway... I havent looked deeper to see if it does need bushings or ball joints, but I know thats also a slippery slope of replacement and "While I am in here...." Been down that road on a Ford Ranger before, but was a bit easier since it didnt have HD springs to deal with...

Ill have to get this thing state inspected soon anyway, so will ask for a good once over from my mechanic to see what else they can find.

Appreciate all of the input/suggestions everyone! Seems like having a lift would really be helpful for working on this thing...

 

[Snagglefoot]

Dexcool is fine. I have 260,000 miles and the original radiator and heater core on a 2008 6.0 Chevy changing every 5 years.

 

[repairman54]

2x on Dexcool being OK. I've driven multiple fleet Express vans in my previous life that never had a coolant change over 200k miles and then some. 4.3 and V8 versions.

 

[Lawnman23]

I wasnt sure if OE are the best way to go, or if its worth the money to go to a Bilstein B6. I dont want to cheap out given the size of this thing, but I also am not planning to put that many miles on it. It just needs to be reliable for when it does need to hit the road.

I would highly recommend going with Bilstein B6’s for the shocks. Anything OE will pale in comparison. I love them on my 98 K1500.

 

[dogememe]

Solid vehicles. I've recently driven Expresses/Savanas twice, both as U-Hauls. Interior is a joke compared to Transit vans BUT I think they are 10x more reliable and 1/3 the cost to maintain and repair.

 

[Clarkbug]

I would highly recommend going with Bilstein B6’s for the shocks. Anything OE will pale in comparison. I love them on my 98 K1500.

I wasn't sure if this being a 3500 that the Bilsteins would make the ride harsh when the van isn't loaded. I am Ok paying the premium for them if I dont have to get back in there to swap them out again in a few years.

 

[Opelman]

We had several of those at work. Very fussy about misfire codes if OE ignition components weren't used. Front spark plugs access is easy if you remove the front wheels and go in through the wheelwell. Everything else has been covered.

 

[Lawnman23]

I wasn't sure if this being a 3500 that the Bilsteins would make the ride harsh when the van isn't loaded. I am Ok paying the premium for them if I dont have to get back in there to swap them out again in a few years.

It will be stiffer than OE but not harsh. There was a reason GM chose them as the shock for the Z71 package on the GMT400 trucks. They are high quality, last forever and drastically improve large vehicle behavior, moreso when loaded.

My dad had a 2005 Silverado 1500 2WD RCSB that he put a set on after having quality issues with other aftermarket brands. He loved the ride and the feel. Even on a "light" truck like that, the improvement was night and day.

 

[Clarkbug]

We had several of those at work. Very fussy about misfire codes if OE ignition components weren't used. Front spark plugs access is easy if you remove the front wheels and go in through the wheelwell. Everything else has been covered.

That is good to know. Ill stick with GM ignition bits and pieces when I get there. For now it seems like I have enough other projects with this thing that Ill try not to mess anything up. Do you get to all the plugs from underneath, or just the fronts? Ill probably have to mess with the ignition coil also at some point due to some chewed wires for the MAP sensor. They are patched for now, but Ill have to order the GM connector and do it properly when I am in there.

It will be stiffer than OE but not harsh. There was a reason GM chose them as the shock for the Z71 package on the GMT400 trucks. They are high quality, last forever and drastically improve large vehicle behavior, moreso when loaded.

My dad had a 2005 Silverado 1500 2WD RCSB that he put a set on after having quality issues with other aftermarket brands. He loved the ride and the feel. Even on a "light" truck like that, the improvement was night and day.

All great info to know. I took it for a ride down the road yesterday and it was super floaty on me. I think the fronts are just done. I'm going to put them on my list after the basic maintenance is done, and once I get it inspected to put on the road.

Now I just need to crawl under there and find out what kind of rear axle I have. I think I want to get a diff cover with a drain plug on it....

 

[Clarkbug]

Update here.

Coolant flushed and changed, Transmission pan dropped and filter changed, and brake fluid flushed. Put new Bilstein B6 on the front and it rides so much better. Feels "smaller" going down the road. Need to do the back shocks and front sway links to tighten it down a little more.

Any tips to torque the shock nut on the top? I'm guessing torque wrench with a crowfoot on it?

 

[ripcord]

Update here.

Coolant flushed and changed, Transmission pan dropped and filter changed, and brake fluid flushed. Put new Bilstein B6 on the front and it rides so much better. Feels "smaller" going down the road. Need to do the back shocks and front sway links to tighten it down a little more.

Any tips to torque the shock nut on the top? I'm guessing torque wrench with a crowfoot on it?

No torque wrench needed. Just turn the top nut down until the rubber bushings swell out even with edge of the metal washers.