2000 Lexus LS400 starting problem

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tnt31

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My mother has a 2000 Lexus LS400 that has recently started giving her a starting problem. It intermittently would just not start. Sometimes a click sometimes nothing. Wait a few minutes try again and it would start. A couple of weeks ago it would not start so she called me. I checked her battery and it was reading 10.4v. So I charged it for a few hours, cleaned the terminals and connectors, and then started it up. At idle with everything off the voltage was 14.19v. Battery is a 1.5 year old Duralast Gold. As far as I know the Alternator is the original except a local rebuild shop replaced the voltage regulator in it two years ago.

I took it to both AAP and AZ to have it tested and both indicated the battery and alternator as good. AAP also indicated the starter was not drawing too much when starting the vehicle.

Two weeks later it would not start for her so I charged the battery for four hours and then when I tried to crank it the first time it clicked but the second time it started with no problems. I took it to a local independent shop I trust and they tested it and also indicate no problems.

Any suggestions for what to check as I do not just want to throw parts at it?
 
TYhe famous Toyota solenoid problem. You can replace the contacts or just throw in a rebuilt starter. Toyota starters are actually a pretty standard item throught the range of cars. They have a power rating in "KW" with the more powerful starters being 1.2 KW ( the cold climate version) or above, and can be interchanged. I have a Toyota pickup starter in one Camry as a replacement and boy does it crank. Makes a bit more noise, though.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
TYhe famous Toyota solenoid problem. You can replace the contacts or just throw in a rebuilt starter. Toyota starters are actually a pretty standard item throught the range of cars. They have a power rating in "KW" with the more powerful starters being 1.2 KW ( the cold climate version) or above, and can be interchanged. I have a Toyota pickup starter in one Camry as a replacement and boy does it crank. Makes a bit more noise, though.
It's interesting what you can learn by using an outfit like Rockauto's catalog to cross reference part numbers between models and engines.
 
Sounds like starter issue to me aswell, especially the click then try again and off it goes.

This alone proves it isn't battery or alternator.

Sounds like typical starter motor solenoid trouble.
 
OP mentioned battery voltage was 10.4V, that is a badly discharged battery. Since the charging system seems to be working, it seems to point to a high key-off power draw. Check that first, before throwing a new starter/solenoid in.
 
@OP:

Make sure your battery is capable first (charge and hold charge properly) before you proceed to resolving/looking into your starter.

@Herrstig:

Given that the automobile in-question is 12 yrs old, imagine the solenoid switch to take on several hundred amps (momentary) several times a day for 12 yrs, I'd be pleased if the original starter can last that long.





Q.
 
starter is under neath intake manifold on these engines. Does not make it easy for DIY. If you dont have proper tools bring it to a shop. Common failure on toyota V8's for some reason. Usually it is the solenoid that fails.

10.4 volts no load is a shorted cell. I'd have it warrantied.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mattd
starter is under neath intake manifold on these engines. Does not make it easy for DIY. If you dont have proper tools bring it to a shop. Common failure on toyota V8's for some reason. Usually it is the solenoid that fails.

10.4 volts no load is a shorted cell. I'd have it warrantied.


The battery has been tested at three different places. AZ where the battery was purchased. AAP who could have sold me a new one and an independent shop. All say it is good. I am almost of the mind she must have left a door open or something and it drained down and the 10.4v was a coincidence to the actual problem but have not totally dismissed the battery.

After charging it then letting it sit 30 minutes the charge on it was 12.54v. I checked it three days later (she had been using the vehicle those three days) and it was still 12.54v. I will start checking it periodically.
 
To test for key-off current draw, pull the red lead from the right red terminal on the multimeter, and stick it into the left red terminal. This will give you a 10A max current capacity. Leave the black lead on the middle terminal (COM).

Take key out of ignition, and close all doors. Make sure all interior and exterior lights are off.

Put multimeter into mA (miliamp) mode.

Disconnect the positive lead from the battery.

Hook the black lead to the positive post of the battery, and the red lead to the positive clamp you just disconnected.

Observe readout on the multimeter once it stabilises. Anything more than 100-200mA, might be excessive and you will need to start tracing fuses and circuits.

Sometimes it can be as simple as a glovebox bulb left on due to a faulty close switch.
 
Originally Posted By: chrome
To test for key-off current draw, pull the red lead from the right red terminal on the multimeter, and stick it into the left red terminal. This will give you a 10A max current capacity. Leave the black lead on the middle terminal (COM).

Take key out of ignition, and close all doors. Make sure all interior and exterior lights are off.

Put multimeter into mA (miliamp) mode.

Disconnect the positive lead from the battery.

Hook the black lead to the positive post of the battery, and the red lead to the positive clamp you just disconnected.

Observe readout on the multimeter once it stabilises. Anything more than 100-200mA, might be excessive and you will need to start tracing fuses and circuits.

Sometimes it can be as simple as a glovebox bulb left on due to a faulty close switch.



Thanks. Will test it this weekend.
 
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