Jim, I would think paper would crude/crust up to the point of the full flow is just running on bypass. This is why I would like to see what a full flow...paper and Eao look like after 40 or 50K even if a bypass filter was used.
2 years on my perpetual OCI
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Originally Posted By: LargeCarManX2
Jim, I would think paper would crude/crust up to the point of the full flow is just running on bypass. This is why I would like to see what a full flow...paper and Eao look like after 40 or 50K even if a bypass filter was used.
This is assuming there is a large amount of crud floating around inside your oil system...I'd be concerned if there was a lot of crud floating around in my more/less closed oil system.
Remember, an oil filter isn't subjected to a continuous dirty media like an air or fuel filter are...it is just filtering a fluid it just filtered a few minutes earlier, in a system more/less closed to outside contaminants. It should actually never really see much crud, period.
With a bypass, the main filter should be relatively clean...I would be more concerned with the filter media being able to withstand that many hours of heat and the heat up/cool down cycles...not that the filter actually plugged.
Jim, I would think paper would crude/crust up to the point of the full flow is just running on bypass. This is why I would like to see what a full flow...paper and Eao look like after 40 or 50K even if a bypass filter was used.
This is assuming there is a large amount of crud floating around inside your oil system...I'd be concerned if there was a lot of crud floating around in my more/less closed oil system.
Remember, an oil filter isn't subjected to a continuous dirty media like an air or fuel filter are...it is just filtering a fluid it just filtered a few minutes earlier, in a system more/less closed to outside contaminants. It should actually never really see much crud, period.
With a bypass, the main filter should be relatively clean...I would be more concerned with the filter media being able to withstand that many hours of heat and the heat up/cool down cycles...not that the filter actually plugged.
On the Benz the filter is just a paper element that goes into an aluminum housing so when you take it out you see the pleats in the paper. I check it once in a while and have never seen anything in the paper. The structural integrity looks just fine. The flow is still good because the housing heats up from the oil flow though it.
I am now going 10,000 between oil and TP changes. The oil no longer gets as black due to low sulfur fuel. I have also not had any noticeable reduction in oil flow through the TP filter. I installed a pressure gauge on the filter housing to check back pressure. I have not yet seen a change in pressure due to filter loading.
I filter my home brew biodiesl fuel though a Motor Guard filter also. I have un- rolled a used roll and was quite surprised to see how the dirt works it's way into the paper. Intuitively I figured there was not much real depth to the TP filter but have found that the finer particles make it about an inch into the top of the roll. I cannot see the particles of course , but can see the change in paper color due to the dirt.
I am now going 10,000 between oil and TP changes. The oil no longer gets as black due to low sulfur fuel. I have also not had any noticeable reduction in oil flow through the TP filter. I installed a pressure gauge on the filter housing to check back pressure. I have not yet seen a change in pressure due to filter loading.
I filter my home brew biodiesl fuel though a Motor Guard filter also. I have un- rolled a used roll and was quite surprised to see how the dirt works it's way into the paper. Intuitively I figured there was not much real depth to the TP filter but have found that the finer particles make it about an inch into the top of the roll. I cannot see the particles of course , but can see the change in paper color due to the dirt.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
I'm not going to say change it - we're in uncharted territory here and I just don't know what to tell you... I say pull a UOA and make sure you get a TBN done. It will spark an interesting thread, as Gary said.
Also, get a particle count just for the fun of it.
Received the report from Blackstone today. TBN is 3.3. Overall, I am satisfied with the numbers on the UOA. If someone can walk me through the process, I would post the report, which is in PDF.
I'm not going to say change it - we're in uncharted territory here and I just don't know what to tell you... I say pull a UOA and make sure you get a TBN done. It will spark an interesting thread, as Gary said.
Also, get a particle count just for the fun of it.
Received the report from Blackstone today. TBN is 3.3. Overall, I am satisfied with the numbers on the UOA. If someone can walk me through the process, I would post the report, which is in PDF.
I'd take a screenshot of the pdf, then save that screenshot to a file, then upload that file to an imagehosting site like Photobucket, then post the link here. Or just email the pdf to somebody who can do this for you. Surely there is such a bitoger amongst us?
Originally Posted By: 96 Cherokee
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
I'm not going to say change it - we're in uncharted territory here and I just don't know what to tell you... I say pull a UOA and make sure you get a TBN done. It will spark an interesting thread, as Gary said.
Also, get a particle count just for the fun of it.
Received the report from Blackstone today. TBN is 3.3. Overall, I am satisfied with the numbers on the UOA. If someone can walk me through the process, I would post the report, which is in PDF.
Uh, do like they do in the Used Oil Analysis Forum...type the info into the thread. Please do so ASAP as the suspense is killing me!! That way, it will always be here vs. potential loss from a bad link to the pic of the PDF.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
I'm not going to say change it - we're in uncharted territory here and I just don't know what to tell you... I say pull a UOA and make sure you get a TBN done. It will spark an interesting thread, as Gary said.
Also, get a particle count just for the fun of it.
Received the report from Blackstone today. TBN is 3.3. Overall, I am satisfied with the numbers on the UOA. If someone can walk me through the process, I would post the report, which is in PDF.
Uh, do like they do in the Used Oil Analysis Forum...type the info into the thread. Please do so ASAP as the suspense is killing me!! That way, it will always be here vs. potential loss from a bad link to the pic of the PDF.
Originally Posted By: 96 Cherokee
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
I'm not going to say change it - we're in uncharted territory here and I just don't know what to tell you... I say pull a UOA and make sure you get a TBN done. It will spark an interesting thread, as Gary said.
Also, get a particle count just for the fun of it.
Received the report from Blackstone today. TBN is 3.3. Overall, I am satisfied with the numbers on the UOA. If someone can walk me through the process, I would post the report, which is in PDF.
PM me and I'll give you my email. I'll then take a picture and and put it up here for all to see.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
I'm not going to say change it - we're in uncharted territory here and I just don't know what to tell you... I say pull a UOA and make sure you get a TBN done. It will spark an interesting thread, as Gary said.
Also, get a particle count just for the fun of it.
Received the report from Blackstone today. TBN is 3.3. Overall, I am satisfied with the numbers on the UOA. If someone can walk me through the process, I would post the report, which is in PDF.
PM me and I'll give you my email. I'll then take a picture and and put it up here for all to see.
any news on "the report"?
There it is!
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What! No Comments??????
Originally Posted By: 96 Cherokee
What! No Comments??????
We're speechless
Do you have any idea why TBN improved. I would have dumped the oil based on your first TBN, but obviously there was a lot of life left in it along with your small additions of oil with the TP changes.
What! No Comments??????
We're speechless
Do you have any idea why TBN improved. I would have dumped the oil based on your first TBN, but obviously there was a lot of life left in it along with your small additions of oil with the TP changes.
No idea. I was pleasenty surprised at the TBN also. The Motorguard bypass filter has only been on there for the last 2 UOAs. The 2 UOAs before that, I believe I had the Amsoil bypass on it. For the first 220,000 miles, I ran no bypass, just Amsoil and occationally Mobil 1 synthetic. and extended oil drains. Some of them were probably too long. Now it looks like maybe I'll never have to do another drain again. The copper went up as soon as I installed the Motor Guard. I am hoping the reason for the increase is the internal metal parts of the MG are made of copper. Also, after the the MG installation, I did a TP change at about 1400 miles, and after that at about 2000 mile intervals until the first UOA on it. Now I change the TP at 2500 mile intervals. The Jeep now has 296,000 miles(over 17,000 hours) on it. Oil consumption seems to have stabilized at about .5 qt per 2500 miles.
That's the most interesting UOA chart I have seen here. What does the oil look like? And do you plan to keep going on the same oil?
How does the head look with the valve cover off? Or if it hasn't been off how does it look through the fill hole?
How does the head look with the valve cover off? Or if it hasn't been off how does it look through the fill hole?
The oil is dark, but not black or sooty looking. I'm told that the additives in some oils turn dark from the heat and it does not mean anything. Yes, unless someone gives me a good reason not to, I plan to keep on going this way. The valve cover has never been off. I have never even tightened the valve cover bolts. Can't see much looking down into the fill hole, but feeling in there with my finger, there is no sludge.
Yes, this I why I do not change my oil at all. With a Centrifuge and a bypass filter and Pre-lube pump for cold starts why do anything but change the bypass filter at 10K intervals add a little make up oil and inspect the centrifuge at 60k and Full flow change at 10K. Mobil 1 15W-50
Someday I will do an oil analysis via Blackstone and post it. But why hurry?
2002 GMC Duramax Diesel 71k
Dale
Someday I will do an oil analysis via Blackstone and post it. But why hurry?
2002 GMC Duramax Diesel 71k
Dale
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"Someday I will do an oil analysis via Blackstone and post it. But why hurry?"
Fuel dilution, antifreeze contamination, silicon numbers, oxid and nitration numbers, TBN....just to name a few!
Fuel dilution, antifreeze contamination, silicon numbers, oxid and nitration numbers, TBN....just to name a few!
It looks like the additives are not being depleted since they are the same as the earlier samples. This of course is what Ralph has been telling everyone for a long time.
You are going 2434 miles on each quart of oil used. I think that's doing quite well.
You are going 2434 miles on each quart of oil used. I think that's doing quite well.
Originally Posted By: Jim
It looks like the additives are not being depleted since they are the same as the earlier samples. This of course is what Ralph has been telling everyone for a long time.
You are going 2434 miles on each quart of oil used. I think that's doing quite well.
Actually, the make up oil listed on on the UOA is not accurate due to the inconsistancies in my procedures. Right now I'm using about 1.5 quarts per 2500 miles, including the TP change, which takes about a quart. Still, thats not bad. And so far, I have not found Ralph to be wrong about anything.
It looks like the additives are not being depleted since they are the same as the earlier samples. This of course is what Ralph has been telling everyone for a long time.
You are going 2434 miles on each quart of oil used. I think that's doing quite well.
Actually, the make up oil listed on on the UOA is not accurate due to the inconsistancies in my procedures. Right now I'm using about 1.5 quarts per 2500 miles, including the TP change, which takes about a quart. Still, thats not bad. And so far, I have not found Ralph to be wrong about anything.
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Originally Posted By: Aquaworksllc
Yes, this I why I do not change my oil at all. With a Centrifuge and a bypass filter and Pre-lube pump for cold starts why do anything but change the bypass filter at 10K intervals add a little make up oil and inspect the centrifuge at 60k and Full flow change at 10K. Mobil 1 15W-50
Someday I will do an oil analysis via Blackstone and post it. But why hurry?
2002 GMC Duramax Diesel 71k
Dale
This sounds like the ideal setup. Obviously the oil pump on the Duramax has the extra capacity to handle both the centrifuge and the bypass.
How can we tell which engines have this kind of oil pump capacity and which don't??
(Some pics of your installation would be interesting if you have time? What brand of pre-luber do you use?)
Yes, this I why I do not change my oil at all. With a Centrifuge and a bypass filter and Pre-lube pump for cold starts why do anything but change the bypass filter at 10K intervals add a little make up oil and inspect the centrifuge at 60k and Full flow change at 10K. Mobil 1 15W-50
Someday I will do an oil analysis via Blackstone and post it. But why hurry?
2002 GMC Duramax Diesel 71k
Dale
This sounds like the ideal setup. Obviously the oil pump on the Duramax has the extra capacity to handle both the centrifuge and the bypass.
How can we tell which engines have this kind of oil pump capacity and which don't??
(Some pics of your installation would be interesting if you have time? What brand of pre-luber do you use?)
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I have been cutting full flow filters up lately. I punch a hole on a corner of the filter with a nail and puncture the ADBV real good through the holes.
This lets the oil drain out very well. Then clamp the filter in the vise and start cutting the filter with a hacksaw. I start cutting about a 1/4-3/8 inch under the filter seam. You will find out real quick when you are too high.......
I cut with the hacksaw while moving backwards with the cut. Seems to work better than going forward for some reason. When going forward with the hacksaw it tends to catch the metal and make things difficult. I stumbled onto the going backward thing lately by accident.
This lets the oil drain out very well. Then clamp the filter in the vise and start cutting the filter with a hacksaw. I start cutting about a 1/4-3/8 inch under the filter seam. You will find out real quick when you are too high.......
I cut with the hacksaw while moving backwards with the cut. Seems to work better than going forward for some reason. When going forward with the hacksaw it tends to catch the metal and make things difficult. I stumbled onto the going backward thing lately by accident.
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