1st coolant change on an Asian vehicle

I'm curious, where are you finding OEM brand Asian AF these days? Or, have you had it stashed for a while,? It is full strength, right?

The Asian PHoat AFs have a long service interval. Three years ago I did a simple radiator d&f on FF Honda Type2, you can see how it and the radiator looked HERE .

As for topic question, like others I'd use the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation as a guide.
Yes....I have full strength OEM blue coolant and Pentosin A2 full strength (from the AZ 'clearance') stashed.

As far as those who say "Follow the owners manual"...I say...I know these long life coolants can go many years but manufacturers are selling lower maintenance costs when they say 10K oil changes etc...Like others have insinuated...a gallon of coolant is cheaper than hours of labor to change a water pump etc...I'd never go 10 years on any coolant just as I wouldn't go 10K on any oil.
 
Yes....I have full strength OEM blue coolant and Pentosin A2 full strength (from the AZ 'clearance') stashed.

As far as those who say "Follow the owners manual"...I say...I know these long life coolants can go many years but manufacturers are selling lower maintenance costs when they say 10K oil changes etc...Like others have insinuated...a gallon of coolant is cheaper than hours of labor to change a water pump etc...I'd never go 10 years on any coolant just as I wouldn't go 10K on any oil.
That explains the use of OEM Asian AF. Haven't seen it readily available and decently priced since Pep Boys decimated by Carl Icahn.

Just to note, I said use the OM "as a guide". For Honda it's something like ~10years or ~100k miles, and about half that on subsequent service. 'In my experience' including the Honda anecdote I previously linked, seems a reasonable interval. Personally, 'I' wouldn't analogize an Asian PHoat AF service interval to motor oil.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Yes....I have full strength OEM blue coolant and Pentosin A2 full strength (from the AZ 'clearance') stashed.

As far as those who say "Follow the owners manual"...I say...I know these long life coolants can go many years but manufacturers are selling lower maintenance costs when they say 10K oil changes etc...Like others have insinuated...a gallon of coolant is cheaper than hours of labor to change a water pump etc...I'd never go 10 years on any coolant just as I wouldn't go 10K on any oil.

most cars will rust before having any coolant problems :sneaky:
 
After reading the thoughts of some BITOGers whose opinions I respect a lot I'll probably go a bit further on the OE coolant...probably 4 years...maybe 5...which should work out to 75 to 90K. That's why I made this OP...to learn.

Also, like many others on here...I believe the manufacturers recommend subsequent coolant change intervals be cut in half because they can't be sure that a full change is done or that the correct water is used etc...Since I do a few distilled water flushes and then refill with 1/2 the system capacity of coolant concentrate (making it a 50/50 mix)...I'd go 4 or 5 years before changing again. Thanks guys.
 
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My current Asian cars say to change at 100K miles and every 50K thereafter. The car in my signature I did at 90K, 140K, and 185K. I guess I'm almost due again. My 2012 I did at 100K and 150K, it's going to be due again in ~1.5 years.
 
I’d do it every 3 years or so if doing a complete flush. Or drain and fills every year because why not.. with dealership sourced coolant aswell
 
100k or age. I went with age at 64k on the odo drained/refilled 3x Supertech Asian Red, also proactively replaced the radiator, hoses and waterpump. Overkill but thats how I roll.
I like it. I prefer to remove as many variables as possible and I'm a bit OCD with proactive service and maintenance. Whether it saves me money in the long term or not I doubt I'll ever know, but I don't like mechanical surprises on the side of the highway.
 
Whatever OEM manual says. On my recent cars that's 150k/10 year initially then 100k/5 year on drain and refill. I'd just do that with OEM coolant instead of aftermarket just in case they weren't tested to that far. Labor is expensive and fluid is cheap.
 
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