1998 Honda CRV 2.4 - fluid/mtce recommendations

Number_35

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Messages
2,025
Location
Winnipeg MB CA
Did a bit more work on the CR-V earlier today.

- Changed a very overdue cabin filter (Post #27):
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/cabin-filters-nsfb-not-safe-for-bitog.339077/page-2

- Took off the driver's door panel, in preparation for replacing the PW ass'y.

- Was able to reinstall, without replacing, a front stabilizer-bar end-link which had come half-off. The top stud had come right out of the mounting point after losing its nut, and the nut on the bottom stud (which is attached to the stabilizer bar) had worked half off. Measured the stud diameter and thread pitch (10 x 1.25) and had an appropriate shouldered nut in my collection, so the top was easy. Can't say for sure it was the AeroKroil, but I was amazed that on the bottom I was able to hold the stud with a 5 mm hex key in the end of the stud, and retighten the nut to secure the bottom stud to the stabilizer bar. I was almost certain I'd have to cut the stud off and replace the entire unit.

- Now need to source a driver's-side PW motor and regulator assembly. Here are some choices from RA. Please advise! Aisin?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...erior,window+regulator+&+motor+assembly,15596
 
Messages
11,558
Location
USA
Did a bit more work on the CR-V earlier today.

- Changed a very overdue cabin filter (Post #27):
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/cabin-filters-nsfb-not-safe-for-bitog.339077/page-2

- Took off the driver's door panel, in preparation for replacing the PW ass'y.

- Was able to reinstall, without replacing, a front stabilizer-bar end-link which had come half-off. The top stud had come right out of the mounting point after losing its nut, and the nut on the bottom stud (which is attached to the stabilizer bar) had worked half off. Measured the stud diameter and thread pitch (10 x 1.25) and had an appropriate shouldered nut in my collection, so the top was easy. Can't say for sure it was the AeroKroil, but I was amazed that on the bottom I was able to hold the stud with a 5 mm hex key in the end of the stud, and retighten the nut to secure the bottom stud to the stabilizer bar. I was almost certain I'd have to cut the stud off and replace the entire unit.

- Now need to source a driver's-side PW motor and regulator assembly. Here are some choices from RA. Please advise! Aisin?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...erior,window+regulator+&+motor+assembly,15596

For the regulator, yeah, get Aisin :)
 

Number_35

Thread starter
Messages
2,025
Location
Winnipeg MB CA
Back to it yesterday - installed the Aisin window regulator and motor assembly. Owner was delighted to have an operable window back.

Stepped owner through changing the plugs - they were not fouled, but were quite worn, with gaps around 0.55". The original plugs were basic NGKs, perhaps G-Power, and new NGK Iridium plugs went in.

Changed the very grungy cap and rotor too. Could have been original at 346K km. Pleased that the screws were not rusted into the distributor. Learned that the rotor was secured to the distributor shaft with a screw. Had not seen such a thing before.

Changed a PCV valve that did seem to function OK as one-way valve, but didn't rattle when shaken.

Syringed out the PS reservoir, and refilled it with genuine Honda PSF. That took one 350 ml bottle. Will do that once again next time. The old fluid was very dirty. Original? Who knows ...

**************

Remaining work -

- Drain & refill radiator with Honda-compatible coolant. (To be done twice.)

- Bleed brakes all around.

- Tighten accessory belts to get rid of squeal on start-up.

- Drain & refill ATF.

- Drain & refill rear diff.
 
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