1995 Taurus running thread

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I probably shouldn't jump in here, but it sounds a LOT like a head gasket (or even possibly a cracked block) situation-since you've already replaced the radiator, I would wire the coolant fan to run continuously whenever the engine is running, (& I'll catch grief for this) pull the thermostat temporarily to INCREASE coolant flow until you can replace the water pump & diagnose what else is causing the overheating. This might even be enough to help with your transmission problem, at least until you get your S-10 straightened out.
 
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
"Red and Green" are the colors for Christmas and unexpected gifts - happy you made it home. Let the ole gal rest for a while.


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I am beginning to suspect that she needs new fluid.

You recommend proper siphoning over a pan drop and filter change? Or should I leave this mix in for longer, and monitor ALL systems??

And Fleetmon is right, water pump gotta go.
 
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And btw.. What IS the shop book labor time/rate to do the water pump on this 1995 Ford Taurus, 3.0 Vulcan?

I think Fleetmon is right.. The trans is probably fine, but the iffy heating, cooling, and pressurization due to weeping/dead water pump is probably making EVERY system act haywire. Especially since it acts up the most when full HOT.
 
Buy a box of matches and 2 gallons of diesel fuel and make sure to park the s10 close to the taurus VERY CLOSE!! Strike match throw it at the car throw 5 or 6 or 20 to make sure the jobs done correctly and the walk away......then save some money for a good little car. This ford sounds like a nightmare that you need to wake up from.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Buy a box of matches and 2 gallons of diesel fuel and make sure to park the s10 close to the taurus VERY CLOSE!! Strike match throw it at the car throw 5 or 6 or 20 to make sure the jobs done correctly and the walk away......then save some money for a good little car. This ford sounds like a nightmare that you need to wake up from.


I am in process of making Craigslist ad. Ill post the link. Please tell me how I did.
 
I don't know what book time is, but in practice you need to consider that rust is going to get in the way, you can expect that it should take around to 1.6 to 1.8 unless you use air tools. Book time assumes no rust.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
I don't know what book time is, but in practice you need to consider that rust is going to get in the way, you can expect that it should take around to 1.6 to 1.8 unless you use air tools. Book time assumes no rust.


I'm thinking they will want about $125 to do the water pump? .

I once had another older GM car, the guy said he would do the water pump for $75. This being an indy/shadetree deal, I paid him, and he began taking off the water pump. Halfway through, he commented, "I didn't know doing the water pump would be like this. I should have charged more." He then went on another job, and left the job 3/4 done. Had to call a friend to finish it.

And how did I do on my ad?
 
Your ad was too verbose. I'd get rid of the part about breaking legs. Makes you look crazy.
 
IF it sells.. Should I next get this?

1014552_516570988409452_1911770100_o.jpg


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QQ Historic plates, $1800.

The lot behind him has a 1995 or later S10 pickup with a whale tail on top of a covered bed, all black, for sale (unsure the price) and he still has an old Impala or Grand National with dark tints and a big huge hood scoop. But I like this one.
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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I made it home fine. Smoke show appears to have been freak. Shifts super well now.

Matbe I blew out all the carbon.
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Oh well. Im inside, so its sitting for hours now.


Wow.... I just went out to it, just now, and the intake (top of engine) was STILL warm!
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


Maybe the drop in oil pressure made the engine RPM drop (it did,) and then coolant belched radiator cap.


How in the heck do you figure removing the oil fill cap drop oil pressure???
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You're really on a roll now!

Watch for what engine lies in that malaise era car, could be a 301 or maybe a 260. Both make 100 hp at best.

And for cripe's sakes, take your next car on a test drive and get it good and hot.

Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
IF it sells.. Should I next get this?

1014552_516570988409452_1911770100_o.jpg


smile.gif


QQ Historic plates, $1800.

The lot behind him has a 1995 or later S10 pickup with a whale tail on top of a covered bed, all black, for sale (unsure the price) and he still has an old Impala or Grand National with dark tints and a big huge hood scoop. But I like this one.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
IF it sells.. Should I next get this?


I can see it now: It runs great warm, but the choke doesn't work. In an attempt to fix this you'll pay someone $50 to rebuild the carburetor but they lose some of the peices so you'll be here asking how to fix it.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
You're really on a roll now!

Watch for what engine lies in that malaise era car, could be a 301 or maybe a 260. Both make 100 hp at best.

And for cripe's sakes, take your next car on a test drive and get it good and hot.

Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
IF it sells.. Should I next get this?

1014552_516570988409452_1911770100_o.jpg


smile.gif


QQ Historic plates, $1800.

The lot behind him has a 1995 or later S10 pickup with a whale tail on top of a covered bed, all black, for sale (unsure the price) and he still has an old Impala or Grand National with dark tints and a big huge hood scoop. But I like this one.
smile.gif



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eljefino, IF I can get this Taurus sold, (IF!) - then I will seriously look at it.

Hard times have befallen this S-10 install. I video documented, but it is still sitting there.

And I kinda like that custom El Camino adapted Olds??? Never quite seen that before. Have you?

(And why wouldit it have the 307 "Rocket" 5.0L that most Delta 88s had? That looks like an 88, MY maybe 1982-1989.)
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


Maybe the drop in oil pressure made the engine RPM drop (it did,) and then coolant belched radiator cap.


How in the heck do you figure removing the oil fill cap drop oil pressure???
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I thought the cap needed to stay on, and when it is off, you put your hand over and you are supposed to feel it pull air not push.. ?

I have had a LOT of cars run or idle worse when oil cap is removed??

Could this suggest a gasket issue, or plugged PCV, or?? Why am I not making sense? (That was an honest question, not a quip. I really want to know. Please educate me?)
 
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