1995 Taurus running thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Can you take a picture of the car and yourself along side of it. The guys on here and myself like pictures since they say a thousand words. Thank you!
 
When your new used car has three showstopping failures before you even get it home you can safely assume that you've bought a pile of junk. There are other major failures ready to jump out at you. Don't try to fix the car up and drive it; try to figure out how to minimise your loss as you get rid of it.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
I'm betting that "TechnoLoGs"

is either

A) Carnoobie

OR

B)GearHeadTool


crackmeup2.gif


No kidding, Columbo. What else are you working on, of a string of brutal murders of 'working girls' in Whitechapel... you and the boys down at the crime lab maybe got a lead on who kidnapped the Lindbergh baby?
 
Starter, radiator, and battery are minor things in themselves. Those parts don't last forever.
Since the battery was bad, how did you conclude the starter was also bad? Attempted to jump start it?

The bad radiator is concerning, because somebody might have allowed the car to overheat, which causes real problems, especially if you have aluminum heads.
 
And I have a visible leak "that appears to be coming from where the pulleys are."

Car runs good and has nor overheated since new radiator. Fans come on and work well. No tailpipe smokes of any kind nor color, no smoke at all.

Water pump?
 
Originally Posted By: armos
Starter, radiator, and battery are minor things in themselves. Those parts don't last forever.
Since the battery was bad, how did you conclude the starter was also bad? Attempted to jump start it?

The bad radiator is concerning, because somebody might have allowed the car to overheat, which causes real problems, especially if you have aluminum heads.


When I got stuck and iverheated/stalled out at 12:30AM by Ramapo Forest in Ringwood NJ, putch black, I turned key and heard nothing. Only interior lights worked. In my panic, I had to call owner. Based on my descriptionhe said "crawl under car and bang on starter, hard. Ill tell you where it is." I took my flashlight, and did so. (I wish NJ would let me have a shotgun for bears. Anyone in PA selling? Cash? Anyways.) I did so, went in, and it limpes to a start. I then drove out of forwst, and slept in car at gas station.

It then started on first key turn in A.M., but banging was required to get it to start a final time, from McDonalds lot 1/32 of a mile to shop (right next door.) Ill show the receipts.

$677.89 (Ringwood NJ) plus $110.60 (Rt 440 in Jersey City, NJ, by Communipaw) = fixed the car.
smile.gif
Probably needs a water pump now.

And I dodged a bullet with overheat. The lack of amount of coolant made steam/heated air, which blew raiator.. Not head, block, or gasket. My S10 blew all three, and $2/0 of sealers were not 100% succesaful. Yes, ~$200 of sealers.

Wouldnt it be amazing if the parts guy that took my special order for range switch in Jersey City reafs BITOG? crazyoildude, you aint Jersey City Ford Parts Department, are you?
smile.gif


Im.in Norristown PA where W Main St meets Markley. Probably going to take 476 to Philly, I watered up the car since it has coolant leak.
 
Is it irrational to think that changing a WP may expose a head gasket issue? Not that I think there is one, but. ?? (More pressure?)
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Is it irrational to think that changing a WP may expose a head gasket issue? Not that I think there is one, but. ?? (More pressure?)


Yes, that's irrational. Doesn't make any sense at all. A new water pump will not make a head gasket go bad.
 
Actually it is important to note that the WP contributes negligible pressure to the cooling system.

The radiator cap controls that issue... if all else is well.
 
Last edited:
If there is any doubt where the leak is coming from, undress the engine at the leak area and introduce shop air at 20 psi to the cooling system. This should uncover the leak source. I've used this technique successfully a couple times.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Actually it is important to note that the WP contributes negligible pressure to the cooling system.

The radiator cap controls that issue... if all else is well.


I first notice the issue yesterday when I got my oil filter changed. The guy commented on my coolant leak came out with towels as if to take off a pressurized radiator cap... but even after being turned off and driven he opened it and there was no pressure spew.

I think the pressure went out the externally connect the water pump maybe weeping, as to why there is no pressure get there is no overheat as well.

It also appears to pull water in from reservoir, the coolant is a color that I cannsee.
and who the [censored] is Cardinal be, Ding Dong, One Hung Lo, Admiral Snackbat, Bigballz, sounds like the sillyness to me. Able to leap tall builds in a single bound. Sounds like sillyness to me. stay focused, people. I have a car to fix or fix and sell. Moving on, changel oil filter to Motorcraft FL-400S.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
If there is any doubt where the leak is coming from, undress the engine at the leak area and introduce shop air at 20 psi to the cooling system. This should uncover the leak source. I've used this technique successfully a couple times.


I might try that. The drip appears to be above a shield, so I can only suspect.
 
95 Ford Taurus GL
181,000 miles
new Range Sensor
approx. 1qt. Overfull, some new ATF introduced.

Will report back how it goes!
 
The head gasket puts up with 175 lbs of cylinder pressure so 20 from water is no big deal.

If you think you're doing your HG a favor by cutting pressure, fix your water pump and leave your rad cap loose.

But don't do it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top