1989 Econoline 350 RV

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5,622
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Ohio
I would not flush the engine but do a couple more frequent changes. A chemical flush may make that oil leak worse. Looks like the pan, try tweeking the bolts and valve cover bolts. On your C6, when you drop the pan, change that old vacuum modulator, it's only really bad if fluid leaks out the vacuum nipple but I wouldn't want that old diaphram in it to blow out in the sticks somewhere.. It's very easy when the fluid has drained and make sure to put the rod back on the new modulator. There's one "intermediate" band to adjust on a C6. Good time to do it. It's easy and you need a torque wrench and shouldn't take long. Check out those brakes and flush out the old fluid.
 
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scurvy

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2,406
Location
Chicago IL USA
Six coolant system changes later it ran clean and clear, refilled with conventional green, new 180F thermostat and gasket. First drain [Linked Image] Last drain [Linked Image] Also topped up the PS & ATF with some Mercon, got all the grease zerks until the boots puffed up.
 
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2,244
Location
california
You said Map sensor, which likely means engine computer and fuel injection...Throttle body ? IDK If the ECM is expecting a 195f thermostat and you used a 180, its going to run rich and get even worse fuel economy. Mine went from 16.5 mpg highway to 14.5 when I went from a 195 to 185 then back to 16.5 hwy once I returned a 195f. But if your radiator is partially occluded, it might not make any difference as both t stats will be wide open, one will just be wide open a bit sooner.
 

scurvy

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2,406
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Chicago IL USA
Originally Posted by wrcsixeight
If the ECM is expecting a 195f thermostat and you used a 180, its going to run rich and get even worse fuel economy.
I understand that, at this point I am attempting to improve the cooling. This thermostat is easy to change so if fuel economy gets worse (worse than 7 mpg? hahahaha) I can always swap it out.
 
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5,135
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Southeast
I hate to say it, but it won't improve cooling capacity, it just begins cooling sooner. If the engine is dumping out 100k btu at full tile, there's 100k btu to cool. If the radiator, fan, and plumbing support 90k btu, whether the engine is at 180 or 195, the cooling systems capacity stays the same. (Numbers provided are just an example) M
 

scurvy

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2,406
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Chicago IL USA
Originally Posted by meep
I hate to say it, but it won't improve cooling capacity, it just begins cooling sooner. If the engine is dumping out 100k btu at full tile, there's 100k btu to cool. If the radiator, fan, and plumbing support 90k btu, whether the engine is at 180 or 195, the cooling systems capacity stays the same.
I understand that and completely agree. Cooling system capacity isn't changed by installing a lower temp thermostat. However I still think the maintenance (flushes, new thermostat, etc...) may help it stay cooler now. We'll see! Worse case scenario, I need to start saving for a four-row radiator.
 
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3,387
Location
Kansas, USA
If your adventurous about throwing some Hyper lube coolant additive in? When I bypassed the TB on the our RV last weekend I put a whole bottle in. Haven't drove it yet but idling in the driveway it already looks like it runs at least 5 degree cooler, just going by the gauge didn't plug in the odb2 reader. But that's not a good test so we'll see next weekend.
 

scurvy

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2,406
Location
Chicago IL USA
If your adventurous about throwing some Hyper lube coolant additive in? When I bypassed the TB on the our RV last weekend I put a whole bottle in. Haven't drove it yet but idling in the driveway it already looks like it runs at least 5 degree cooler, just going by the gauge didn't plug in the odb2 reader. But that's not a good test so we'll see next weekend.
Any real world update? I'm pre-OBD2 so unless I get ambitious and put temperature gauges on the coolant (and transmission) I've got no idea.
 
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4,819
Location
Massachusetts
I just saw this thread. Good looking camper!

Your rear axle is a Dana 80,

I've done a good amount of work on Dana axles. The rear axle in this camper is a Dana 70 (70U). It is verified using the picture of your axle tag : 605412-1 There is also a big "70" cast in the top of the pumpkin.
605412 FORD 70 Rear 1989 E-350 Chassis - DRW - 70U - This is right from Spicer's BOM list.

Just letting you know in case you need internal repairs.
 
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1,542
Location
USA
Does it have a pan style catalytic converter. I thought by 89 some motor homes had them. They have pellets in the cat that wear out.
 
Messages
3,387
Location
Kansas, USA
Any real world update? I'm pre-OBD2 so unless I get ambitious and put temperature gauges on the coolant (and transmission) I've got no idea.

I need to take a few more trips to get a better idea of the temp difference. It still heats up but seems to drop quicker once the load decreases. I wouldn't say it was a waste of money. Also in it's defense I did bypass the TB coolant hoses and may of been giving the onions a bit more, the 6.0L really seem to like bypassing the TB.
 

scurvy

Thread starter
Messages
2,406
Location
Chicago IL USA
I just saw this thread. Good looking camper!



I've done a good amount of work on Dana axles. The rear axle in this camper is a Dana 70 (70U). It is verified using the picture of your axle tag : 605412-1 There is also a big "70" cast in the top of the pumpkin.
605412 FORD 70 Rear 1989 E-350 Chassis - DRW - 70U - This is right from Spicer's BOM list.

Just letting you know in case you need internal repairs.
Thanks! Appreciate the clarification. Aside from the gallon of 75w-140 Synpower gear oil I have ready to go in the rear end I hope it doesn't need anything else.

Does it have a pan style catalytic converter. I thought by 89 some motor homes had them. They have pellets in the cat that wear out.
It may not have a catalyst at all.
It does not have a catalyst at all.

Looks like a fun project. Any chance we can get pics of the living area?
Eventually, we're redoing the back bedroom right now but it's looking MUCH better and actually weather-tight now.
 
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