1965 Volvo 122S coolant

[Cornbread]

I`m getting ready to replace the radiator on the 122. This car has cast iron block and head. Replacement radiator will be metal. I think the original radiator is copper. I might have this radiator repaired/rebuilt for later use. The coolant system is not sealed.

I gotta admit I`m confused about which coolant to use where. Any ideas on the old Volvo?

 

[XS650]

Those are nice old cars.

 

[Cornbread]

Stuart: What is RMI-25? Is it in the solution already or does one use it as an additive?

I`ve got the twin SU HS6. I just had mine re-built and the throttle shafts re-bushed.

I want to post some pics as sure as my 16 yr old son some helps me do so!

By the way I went with Schaeffer`s #267 in the diff. Would like to put it in the transmission, but seems a lot of folks on the board don`t like moly in gear lube.

 

[Ray H]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Stuart Hughes:
If you want something newer/more "exotic", one of the real G-05 formulas. Available at Ford dealers, & I've seen the Peak version at Pep Boys.

---

So, which G-05 formulas are "unreal"?

 

[UncleS2]

RMI-25: is a coolant additive, some folks in extra-hot climates with problem vehicles wind up running straight water with RMI-25. You can add it anytime, so there's no need to wait on it before changing out your coolant. I'll find a link for you later. For the size of the old Volvo cooling system, ~4 ounces will be about right, I think.(approx 8 qts, yes?) I bought a quart, looks like it's gonna be a near-lifetime supply!

OK: Link to site where I bought mine 2-3 years ago(at the time they had free shipping & lowest overall price- they also sell QMI stuff, which looks like snake oil. but RMI is from another company, & RMI is *not* snake oil): http://www.qmimo.com/rmi-25.htm

For over 20 of the 21 + yrs I owned my Volvo, I used Mystik gear oil in its transmission, & it worked beautifully. Pretty red see-through stuff, it looked like strawberry snow-cone syrup. Shifted nice & smooth(you're not gonna do any speed-shifting with that old transmission, right?

), & there was always a minimum of ferrous crud on the factory magnetic drain plug. If you can find Mystik in your area, I highly recommend it.

Carbs rebuilt & throttle shaft re- bushed?

This is serious!

Congrats! BTW: my old owner's manual recommended motor oil, same as used in crankcase, for the little reservoirs on those SU carbs. That's *WRONG*! At least that's what the shop foreman of the OKC Volvo dealership told me back in 1975-76. He strongly recommended ATF, on the thin side- back then that was Type A or maybe early Dexron. These days I'd take that to mean Dexron III or similar.

I'd love to see some pix of that old Volvo- sounds like it's probably a lot nicer than mine was.

 

[UncleS2]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ray H:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Stuart Hughes:
If you want something newer/more "exotic", one of the real G-05 formulas. Available at Ford dealers, & I've seen the Peak version at Pep Boys.

---

So, which G-05 formulas are "unreal"?

---

I'm just referring the fact that there seems to ba a lot of confusion about it, some seem to assume that antifreezes that are *not* G-05 are(Ex: WalMart Universal is not G-05 antifreeze, but try totell that to some people.

), & it sure seemed to be rare in my area a few months ago. The only place I know for sure to get it semi-locally, other than dealerships, is to drive all the way to Tyler or Shreveport(over 60 miles) for the gold-jug Peak at Pep Boys.

 

[Ray H]

If that wink and a smile emoticon was directed at me, I've pointedly identified SuperTech Universal as an OAT/ethylene glycol dexclone from the getgo. (nor do I recall anyone else posting here identifying SuperTech as a G-05, either) If WalMart employees are stating otherwise, they're misinformed or liars.

 

[UncleS2]

Lighten up, Ray. You're the one guy here at BITOG who's done all the antifreeze homework for the rest of us, & I've found your research very helpful.

I hunted hard for G-05 several months ago, & had 4 different employees at 3 different WalMarts swear to me that Walmart Universal was G-05.

Several employees at several different auto parts stores swore up & down that whatever they were pushing was G-05.

The funny part always came when I asked them to show me the G-05 on the label.

After all that, I decided that it was just gonna be too hard to come by here in the sticks and went with traditional blue-jug Peak.

The only two local places where I got correct information: Jim's Auto Parts right here in my tiny hometown, and ABC Auto Parts a few miles away. Both told me straight out they didn't stock it, but could order it for me. The Ford place wanted over $15/gal for theirs.

Too much hassle, too much $$, thanks but no thanks.

 

[UncleS2]

CB, if it was mine(& I owned one for over 20 years

) I'd make one of two choices.

1. Traditional formula "green" antifreeze, Peak still makes an excellent version. Use that at 50% concentration, with maybe a little RMI-25 in it, & change it every 2 yrs without the RMI-25, 3-4 yrs with it.

2. If you want something newer/more "exotic", one of the real G-05 formulas. Available at Ford dealers, & I've seen the Peak version at Pep Boys.

Personally I'd choose the traditional antifreeze with RMI-25 & be done with it. The RMI will continuously clean all coolant passages & surfaces, safely for all metals, & if you have an overflow tank(my volvo didn't) will begin to leave a layer of fine-grained sediment in the bottom of it. Just clean that sediment out every year or two, & remember it's better there than in the block, radiator, or heater core!

When you drain the coolant: remember that unlike most modern cars, the heater valve on the old Volvo actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Be sure that valve is in the open/heat position.

Does your car have the single or dual carburetor setup?

 

[carock]

Congradulations on the Volvo 122, certainly one of, if not THE most durable car ever sold. The Toyota Land Cruiser was a close second if you lived in Africa. For a classic car like yours it would be best to convert to Evans 100% propylne glycol.The problem with Evans is that it requires a larger radiator than stock, and the radiator tubes need to be wider than your original radiator. It is likely that your 122 radiator is already plenty large to run Evans. Volvos never overheated when new and have quite a bit of "overkill" designed into the system. It is also very likely that your new radiator has wider tubes. Next you need to drain all the water/coolant out of the car, which involves removing the heater core. For all this hassle and expense, your Evans cooling system will never corrode any part and your cooling system will be like new forever. The biggest hassle is getting all the water out before you add the Evans.If you don't want the hassle of converting to Evans, I would strongly recommend the Amsoil coolant. The Amsoil coolant works extremely well in classic cars that sit around a lot and IMHO is worth the extra bucks just to KNOW that works well in older cars.We have been using Amsoil in older cars for at least 12 years and NEVER had a problem. Whether its worth the extra cost I don't know, but I know it works.I have always flushed all of the original coolant out of a classic car before adding new coolant as there are so many compatability issues.