1960 Corvair...first start up since 1974

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks for all the great advice guys. Unless he has some new gaskets, I don't think we'll be tearing the engine down at all tomorrow.
 
If it turns over freely, 3/4 of the battle is 'won' already.

Oil the heck out of the cylinders, re-build the carb, put fresh gas in it, new plugs, wires and oil and filter, and it should go, eventually!
 
Stay away from that stupid fan belt! Don't be standing over it trying to get it running! Especially one as old as that one is.

For those that have never seen a Corvair fan belt it makes some strange turns and flips finally ending up Horizontally on top of the engine.
 
It's the carbs that are going to be problematic.
The jeats and passages are almost certainly pl;ugged to some degree.
The float and needles and seats are also prone to sticking after storage.
 
Hey! I had a '63 Spyder back in 1975, sorry I sold it. I can't add much to the list, but I'd check the generator, blower (on top of the engine) and idler pulley to make sure they spin freely. You wouldn't want the belt to be dragging on any of them.

If you get it running, be sure to check all brake components. That puppy is before they had the split diagonal hydraulics. The brake hydraulics are a single system, a blow-out anywhere, and NO brakes. To that end, I'd also make sure the parking brake is fully functional before you take it out.

Also, a word on tire pressure. The fronts take a lot less pressure than the rear, there's almost no weight on the front. One of my old Corvair books shows 15 PSI front, 26 PSI rear. It's important for the handling. Also about handling, DON'T drive with too much "spirit". The Corvair will lull you into "I can take that curve at any speed", you can't. When the rear end on a Corvair breaks free, it comes around with a vengence (voice of experience). It's a rear-engine thing.

Maybe I got a bit ahead of things. Wishing you good luck on your project, keep us posted.
 
It does have brand new tires on it. I'll mention the tire pressures to him.

I'm not sure where this will be going tomorrow. It will be my first look and first attempt at a project like this.

Widman's rebuilt 1960 turned out very nice!

I'll take my camera.
 
It wouldn't be a bad idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case. Dried out carb gaskets and all that you know...
 
If it were me I'd buy 3-4 gallons of inexpensive oil and completely fill the engine, and then let it sit and soak for a couple days. Then drain the oil and fill to the proper level before trying to start it.


Originally Posted By: addyguy
Don't even bother trying - it will have seized solid. That thing hasn't been running longer than I've been alive, there is NO way it will not be rusted in place.

Even getting it apart to re-build will be hard without breaking something will be next to impossible - I'd tell your fired this is a lost cause!



I've started tractor engines that have been sitting that long that haven't been seized, and the original poster says that it turns over by hand. An engine that turns over by hand probably isn't "seized solid".
 
"If it were me I'd buy 3-4 gallons of inexpensive oil and completely fill the engine, and then let it sit and soak for a couple days. Then drain the oil and fill to the proper level before trying to start it."

I like this idea! Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Why hasn't this car ran for 37 years?? Probably because the engine was bad.


Don't know yet...maybe it didn't like unleaded gas?
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Why hasn't this car ran for 37 years?? Probably because the engine was bad.

Don't know yet...maybe it didn't like unleaded gas?

You never know until you try. It was a 14-year old worthless car when it was parked. Would it surprise you to find a 1997 Honda rusting under an oak tree somewhere? Not me. It sure wasn't a collectible when it was parked.

As for the probability of getting it started- I'd say 50/50. If it were a very conventional straight-6 or v8, I'd say closer to 80% but Corvair engines are quirky. If you can get someone knowledgeable about them on hand, the odds go way up. And I'd seriously check the cooling shrouds for rodent nests- it would suck to get it running and then seize a cylinder because a rat nest was blocking all its cooling air :-/
 
glad someone mentioned the fan belt. go out and buy a new one. the old one will shred in minutes with all its twists.

if your friend said 5 plugs, add 2 sets of safety goggles, and def a cpl of fire extinguishers. old carbs do not reliably control fuel. make sure they don't overun the bowls into the intake, cyls, mufflers, etc while sitting.

echo: stay clear of that belt. tie the mullet back... :-)

I came across one of these engines in a junkyard a few years ago. had never seen one in a van. but a battery on the starter and it cranked freely!

I bought a VW engine that had sat for over a decade. cleaned the carbon from the cylinders, swapped in another spark coil, fired the moment gas hit the carb.

you could get lucky!!
 
The filling the engine with oil idea is intriguing, however, on a flat six the backside of the pistons will be under oil. The oil could easily load into the combustion chamber area and maybe the intake / exhaust manifolds. If you try this, I'd be very careful about making sure all oil is removed from the combustion chambers or you could have hydraulic lock.
 
Just getting it running is one thing.
Getting things safe and right is a 3-12 month project , unless you are a pro.

Ralph Nader has a book to help you with your Corvair problems.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom