If I post this way too long thing, it will force me to change the oil & filter on my dad's Micra K12 1.2 petrol, 2008 MY.
So it had a Bosch oil filter at 60k miles and the odometer will read 80k in the next week or so. I will post the photos of the old filter and if I can spare the cash, get a used oil analysis.
Finally, working at my own French car garage for decades and nearly always without an assistant, here's how I bleed brakes/change the fluid/fit new braking components:
1. Remove the reservoir cap and place a sheet of clingfilm between cap & reservoir.
The clingfilm seals the reservoir, preventing fluid loss.
2. Imagine we are replacing a long rear steel brake pipe on a BMW E36. ABS brakes are not an issue with this method BTW.
3. Unscrew the union closest to the caliper and marvel at how there is no dripping fluid!
4. Remove the entire pipe. Fit new pipe in place without connecting the pipe at the caliper end.
5. Loosen the fluid cap allowing fluid to fill the pipe and then reseal the reservoir with the clingfilm.
6. Often not required, gently retract the piston(s) to their limit and press the brake pedal until the pedal is firm.
If it has air, repeat this a few times, leaving 30 seconds for the bubbles to rise.
7. Work methodically and one can often eliminate the need for any further action to get a firm pedal.
8. *No need for broken bleed nipples, master cylinder seal damage - they often give up the ghost or on occasion the seal can reverse?
I don't know as I never bleed
Honestly works on every French, German, English or Japanese I've tried it on. With proficiency, one can start with a completely dry system and with a few gentle retraction of the caliper's pistons, you get an air-free system.
The pedal is always remarkably firm and using one's brainpower, you can get rid of All of the air & old fluid.
And all without spending $$s on a pressurised gadget or even more cash when a master cylinder fails after an attempt at bleeding your brakes.
I'm sure some more modern stuff might not like this method and you obviously try at your own risk.
But as you were gonna bleed them anyway, why not give it a go?
Finally:
Make certain you remove the Clingfilm before driving off.
* No need for broken nipples...
Spellcheck changed to "No need for Broken, Bleeding Cripples"
Which I'm just about allowed to types as I am one. Have a great day or night folk.
So it had a Bosch oil filter at 60k miles and the odometer will read 80k in the next week or so. I will post the photos of the old filter and if I can spare the cash, get a used oil analysis.
Finally, working at my own French car garage for decades and nearly always without an assistant, here's how I bleed brakes/change the fluid/fit new braking components:
1. Remove the reservoir cap and place a sheet of clingfilm between cap & reservoir.
The clingfilm seals the reservoir, preventing fluid loss.
2. Imagine we are replacing a long rear steel brake pipe on a BMW E36. ABS brakes are not an issue with this method BTW.
3. Unscrew the union closest to the caliper and marvel at how there is no dripping fluid!
4. Remove the entire pipe. Fit new pipe in place without connecting the pipe at the caliper end.
5. Loosen the fluid cap allowing fluid to fill the pipe and then reseal the reservoir with the clingfilm.
6. Often not required, gently retract the piston(s) to their limit and press the brake pedal until the pedal is firm.
If it has air, repeat this a few times, leaving 30 seconds for the bubbles to rise.
7. Work methodically and one can often eliminate the need for any further action to get a firm pedal.
8. *No need for broken bleed nipples, master cylinder seal damage - they often give up the ghost or on occasion the seal can reverse?
I don't know as I never bleed
Honestly works on every French, German, English or Japanese I've tried it on. With proficiency, one can start with a completely dry system and with a few gentle retraction of the caliper's pistons, you get an air-free system.
The pedal is always remarkably firm and using one's brainpower, you can get rid of All of the air & old fluid.
And all without spending $$s on a pressurised gadget or even more cash when a master cylinder fails after an attempt at bleeding your brakes.
I'm sure some more modern stuff might not like this method and you obviously try at your own risk.
But as you were gonna bleed them anyway, why not give it a go?
Finally:
Make certain you remove the Clingfilm before driving off.
* No need for broken nipples...
Spellcheck changed to "No need for Broken, Bleeding Cripples"
Which I'm just about allowed to types as I am one. Have a great day or night folk.
Last edited by a moderator:
