17 Subaru Outback Struts All Around!

[BISCUT]

I'm at about 130k on the Ol'Gal. Time for struts on all 4 corners. The consensus on Sub forums seems to be Bilstein B4 or B6 for a much stiffer ride. Also a lot of KYB recommendations. Both are quality to me as I've used them many times in the past with a preference for Bilstein. This is my DD beater and grocery getter so B4 would be the route for this application.

Complicating matters is I'd like to purchase strut/spring assembly as it is sooo much easier for me! Of course, that convenience comes with a $$ hit. I'm seeing in the area of $1200 for 4 corners for the Bilstein. Questions become....KYB offering for the Outback offer any drawbacks compared to OEM? An additional add to the mix is my friend willing to allow me to use his CarQuest discount on their brand. Carquest premium offer similar performance to OEM? I've never used their suspension products.

Wide open to suggestions as I won't be getting dirty on this project until likely March.

 

[gman2304]

I'm at about 130k on the Ol'Gal. Time for struts on all 4 corners

After only 130,000 miles ?

 

[supton]

After only 130,000 miles ?

Don't know about the OP but I'm guessing it depends on what forum you go to. Back when I had a 2004 VW Jetta, word was, struts were toast, on average, after 40k. For decades most Toyonda drivers "routinely" expect 200k+ from their struts, but their drivers aren't really the ones to notice that the ride is a bit, erm, lacking.

130k over pot holes, frost heaves and who knows (99% sure the OP is in the state of NY) and I could buy them being done. Especially if he is perceptive to ride quality changes as the years goes by. [Not a knock, as a typical Toyota driver I sure am not.]

OP, to play devil's advocate, if this is just a beater, why not the cheaper options? Not Ebay junk that would only last 10k or whatever, but Monroe or the like. If they last 4 years, then time for a new set, might this line up with the time you plan to trade out of the car? Will you get "all" the expected life out of this new set of struts, or, is the goal to make it better because the ride and handling is more important than the cost per mile?

 

[IndyIan]

I've always found KYB to be pretty good, slightly stiffer than OEM, and the mounts for the front struts on my Focus were much better than OEM. I've never actually worn one out, as they always are put on at high(ish) mileage and last to the end of the car.

 

[BAJA_05]

You will thank yourself once you have them put on. I put KYB quick struts on my vehicles and am pleased with them. Ordered off Rock Auto -- the 5% off pays for most of the shipping.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

How 'bout the front LCA rear vertical pivot rubber bushing(s) - that's the first thing to go.

That car is jacked up , Don't get it too stiff or you be looping the thing.

 

[Elroy the Brave]

Throw some Monroe quickstruts on that beast.

 

[edyvw]

Not fan of quickstruts. Just go regular way.
For daily B4 is good and general consensus is that it is 10% stiffer than OE.
Comfort wise consider KONI Special Active if they have for your application.

 

[gathermewool]

Don't know about the OP but I'm guessing it depends on what forum you go to. Back when I had a 2004 VW Jetta, word was, struts were toast, on average, after 40k. For decades most Toyonda drivers "routinely" expect 200k+ from their struts, but their drivers aren't really the ones to notice that the ride is a bit, erm, lacking.

130k over pot holes, frost heaves and who knows (99% sure the OP is in the state of NY) and I could buy them being done. Especially if he is perceptive to ride quality changes as the years goes by. [Not a knock, as a typical Toyota driver I sure am not.]

OP, to play devil's advocate, if this is just a beater, why not the cheaper options? Not Ebay junk that would only last 10k or whatever, but Monroe or the like. If they last 4 years, then time for a new set, might this line up with the time you plan to trade out of the car? Will you get "all" the expected life out of this new set of struts, or, is the goal to make it better because the ride and handling is more important than the cost per mile?

Good points. I like to think that I’m pretty tuned into how my cars are doing, but who knows. The suspension on the Forester XT (FXT) is a bit more aggressive/stiffer than the regular Forester. To me, at over 100k miles it feels as if there has not been any degradation at all. It‘s a bit harder to tell with the Legacy, because it’s softer and I don’t drive it as aggressively as I do the Forester.

With all of that said, our roads are pretty good. There is one location we go to a dozen or so times/year, usually in the FXT, and while the location is in ROUGH shape, the holes are rounded and I take it very slowly. It’s more of a jostling than a jarring ride.

 

[gathermewool]

Are there no used take-offs from other Outbacks with much fewer miles? I got a spare set of take-offs for my previous Subaru from one of the forums for super cheap. With that said, modifying the suspension on Outbacks may not be as prolific as it is with STIs. There might be a chance still, because I do see lifted Outbacks every so often; however, they could simply be using spacers.

Anyway, worth a check.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

What kind of condition is the rest of the car in? Is it rusty? Do you rustproof it?

The Bilstein B4 isn't worth buying, and they may not even be real Bilstein shocks

So, you're better off with the B6, if you're willing to spend the money and the car is otherwise in good shape. Otherwise, just get KYB. Either way, pair them with OEM strut mounts (yes, they do go bad).

KYB makes quick struts for the rear, but not the front. Unfortunately, the only quick struts available for your Outback are cheap FCS.

How 'bout the front LCA rear vertical pivot rubber bushing(s) - that's the first thing to go.

That car is jacked up , Don't get it too stiff or you be looping the thing.

View attachment 135823

With the press you need to replace it, you're better off just getting a complete control arm.

Each control arm is $2-300 from Subaru, or less if you go aftermarket.

 

[ChiTDI]

I put KYB quick struts on my ‘14, all four corners, and have gone about 15k miles.
Ride was stiff for about the the first 5k, now it is like it should be. The handling seems like original at any speed.
I’d put these on my Outback in a heartbeat.
Good luck whatever you decide on Biscut.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

With the press you need to replace it, you're better off just getting a complete control arm.

Each control arm is $2-300 from Subaru, or less if you go aftermarket.

My indie charged me $220 labor (4 hours) to R&R all 4 press control arm bushings and ball joints and the rear LCA bushings on my ‘05 Outback. Considering I didn’t have to cuss even just one time, it was worth every penny… I bought Whiteline bushings and ball joints and took the parts to him. Then to the Subaru dealer for a $150 4-wheel alignment. Easy peasy.

 

[BISCUT]

After only 130,000 miles ?

Yes, sir! And I do little stop-and-go but we do have a lot of hills and windy roads and plenty of potholes. I am a buy new and keep 200k+ kida guy. My experience is usually around 150k before they are needed. Here is my take on the why.

2017 Outback limited has been a great vehicle with tech similar to BMW in areas like the adaptive cruise and the EyeSite. I have to say without any qualms the tech has worked and worked reliability since new. To have all the tech to compete with the higher end vehicles something has to give. Mine is a limited and I find that certain areas were clearly sourced out to lower bidder offering a for sure lower degree of quality. Trim on limited is not anything on the level of what a limited model should have. Windshields are far to thin and many Gen 5 Subaru's suffer multiple cracks throughout ownership (I am on 3). "Leather" seats crack at low mileage they are so cheaply constructed.

As usual, correlation is not causation BUT it sure does seem the OEM struts are not quite up to the quality level of what you'd (or I should say I) would expect for the driving I do. So far I cannot complain about reliability and won't but the little things Subaru cheapened to meet a price point matter.

That's my take.

 

[BISCUT]

Don't know about the OP but I'm guessing it depends on what forum you go to. Back when I had a 2004 VW Jetta, word was, struts were toast, on average, after 40k. For decades most Toyonda drivers "routinely" expect 200k+ from their struts, but their drivers aren't really the ones to notice that the ride is a bit, erm, lacking.

130k over pot holes, frost heaves and who knows (99% sure the OP is in the state of NY) and I could buy them being done. Especially if he is perceptive to ride quality changes as the years goes by. [Not a knock, as a typical Toyota driver I sure am not.]

OP, to play devil's advocate, if this is just a beater, why not the cheaper options? Not Ebay junk that would only last 10k or whatever, but Monroe or the like. If they last 4 years, then time for a new set, might this line up with the time you plan to trade out of the car? Will you get "all" the expected life out of this new set of struts, or, is the goal to make it better because the ride and handling is more important than the cost per mile?

Yes, I'm in NY. Most of the frost heaves I come across are the dandys!! in the area of Bradford VT through NH 25C Piermont up Sawyer Highway to NH 112 into Franconia, onward to Crawford Notch and Pinkham Notch. Those require respect or you'll bottom out for sure. Typical NY windy, hilly backroads with lots of potholes.

Supton you offer sound advice. I'm choosing to go a little higher quality for a few reasons. Since retirement, I am a much more relaxed driver but I'm still on the aggressive side and not a fan of soft or weak rides. The OEM is bad enough I'm also thinking (if the mechanical quality remains intact) I'll keep it past the 200k as a family spare and use it for well, groceries! Wide open world to my next new vehicle awaiting to see how the EV/ICE world sifts out in 3 years. I just might end up with a higher end lux vehicle that would be a lease and I'd use the Outback to fill in some of the mileage I'd otherwise be over on the lease limit.

IMO pays for a better than meh set but not so sold on what would be about $1500 installed for Bilstein B4. From what I've read B6 might be too stiff. Reading B4 is about 10% stiffer and B6 more like 20% stiffer than OEM. But maybe that is subjective too.