'12 Cruze Eco

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
11
Location
UNITED STATES. Kansas
My Eco has 12000 mi and last oil change (3000 mi ago ) my engine is noisy at cold start up, not bad but noisier than when I ran GM 5w30 Syn/Blend as OM recommends, Also no Fuel mileage increase. I really don't care about a 1 or 2 mpg mileage increase, I want superior protection for all engine components for the long haul. This car is a keeper.Thinking of switching back to GM's Syn/Blend. And recommendation for ultimate engine/turbo protection.
 
What is in it now?

Ultimate protection somewhat depends on short trips vs long trips. Lots of short trips would suggest the lightest 0w20, more miles at regular temps would suggest Xw30.

Either way you'd be looking at a full synthetic to provide more protection.

Since you mention 5w30, and you seem to do plenty of highway driving, then a 0w30 that is Dexos approved would be your target I think.
 
Most of the engine couldn't give a [censored] less what oil you use. The turbo? Yeah, that thing probably cares.

I'd run any good synthetic 0w30 or 5w30.

Actually, I personally would probably use Mobil 1 0w-40, but don't do that because you'll enrage 90% of this board.
 
Use the Delco syn blend, but change it at 5000 miles maximum, even if the OLM is still indicating 50% life left. The turbo rips that oil to shreds by 5000 miles.

For maximum protection while staying in warranty, a full synthetic dexos1 5w30 would be ideal. I've run Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 with okay results changed at 7000 miles and sorta-bad results changed at 9000 miles. Right now I'm running Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 to see if the stouter additive package will have positive effects on wear when changed at 7000 miles. I've got 37k miles on my Eco, and it's only seen full synthetic oils.

If you're sticking with a full synthetic, change it at 7500-8000 miles at the latest, even though the OLM says it can go longer. With the 1.4T, mileage is the biggest determining factor on when to change the oil, not the OLM. Don't go past 8000 miles on a full synthetic, and sleep well at night.

In a nutshell: Use full synthetic 5w30 and change it between 7000 and 8000 miles. Rinse and repeat.
 
Any oil that meets both GM Dexos1 spec and Acura HT-06 ( for the turbo ) should together have enough requirements between them to only give you candidates that will be excellent for your engine.
 
A few of us Cruze owners with the 1.4T engine posted used oil analysis of various Full Synthetics after about 7000-7500 miles, and all were fairly similar for wear. Pick a flavor of Full Synthetic and change based on mileage was the consensus.
 
Ah the old Mobil 1 is noisier claim... OK. If you say so. Cant say Ive ever noticed it.

Can you do much better than Mobil 1 5w30? Maybe, maybe not. Is Pennzoil Ultra carrying the Dexos 1 approval? If so, Id consider running it.

I doubt you can do much better or that protection will be noticably different with PU, the GM oil, etc. The key thing is to maintain warranty. All of those oils will be quite good.

Are there any 0w30 dexos 1 oils?
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
I wonder if a 0w30 is dexos approved..


The manual does state that you can use it if the outside temperatures were cold enough - just can't remember what that temperature was off the top of my head.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
For maximum protection while staying in warranty, a full synthetic dexos1 5w30 would be ideal. I've run Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 with okay results changed at 7000 miles and sorta-bad results changed at 9000 miles. Right now I'm running Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 to see if the stouter additive package will have positive effects on wear when changed at 7000 miles.


I think this is the best advice as it seems that OLM is optimistic. A bit scary that even a full synthetic doesn't seem to go the distance.

In which case, the Mobil 1 Extended Performance seems to be they way to go as it claims it can go to 15k and is Dexos approved. Compared to regular M1, you're looking at 50% longer claimed life. Alternatively you're looking at something like Amsoil.
 
Originally Posted By: MarkStock
What is in it now?

Ultimate protection somewhat depends on short trips vs long trips. Lots of short trips would suggest the lightest 0w20, more miles at regular temps would suggest Xw30.

Either way you'd be looking at a full synthetic to provide more protection.

Since you mention 5w30, and you seem to do plenty of highway driving, then a 0w30 that is Dexos approved would be your target I think.


Need to remember a 12 Cruze is still under warranty and therefore the OP should stick to the correct weight of 5w30. 0w-20 is not the correct type of oil for this engine.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
.....Is Pennzoil Ultra carrying the Dexos 1 approval? If so, Id consider running it.


I what is the wonderful world of "dexos politics" and GM and the mighty (or not so mighty) dollar, PU is not certified. Makes no sense. Both Quaker State Ultimate Durability and Pennzoil Platinum (both excellent) are certified and PU (excellent X2) isn't. I can't help but think that GM would have a hard time voiding warranty with a history of PU usage, but as you said, it's about warranty on a new vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: fauxchemist
mobil 1 0w-40 is too thick for your application,turbo or no turbo.


It's not. A brave soul put Rotella T6 5w-40 into their Cruze's engine and reported it ran fine. There's not that much difference between a 30 and 40 weight at operating temperature.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Originally Posted By: fauxchemist
mobil 1 0w-40 is too thick for your application,turbo or no turbo.


It's not. A brave soul put Rotella T6 5w-40 into their Cruze's engine and reported it ran fine. There's not that much difference between a 30 and 40 weight at operating temperature.

0w-40 is a "lighter" 40 weight with its high VI and would do just fine in the cruze, especially with a turbo(does it have DI?). Its a PCMO and not a HDEO 40 weight.

Actually there is quite a bit of difference in the weight. Especially when at cold tempratures. 40 weight oils have different criteria. The range for a 40 weight is 12.5-16.3 and a 30 weight range is 9.3-12.5, that is a huge difference at operating temprature. If you get a very thick 40 and a light 30 there could be a difference of 7! (extreme but none the less)

Examples:
T6 5w-40
Cold - 87
Hot - 14.2

Mobil 1 0w-40
Cold - 75
Hot - 13.5

Maxlife 10w30 (for comparison of a 10w30 since itll be thicker than a 5w30 at cold temps usually)

Cold - 75
Hot - 11.5

You also have to concider the HTHS and VI of the oils. A 40w HTHS is almost always higher than a 30 weight hths due to the limits and this means it will usually be thicker than an oil with a lower hths.
 
Originally Posted By: bourne
Any oil that meets both GM Dexos1 spec and Acura HT-06 ( for the turbo ) should together have enough requirements between them to only give you candidates that will be excellent for your engine.

That's the best advice.
Mobil 1 5w30 does meet both those spec's, but if you don't subjectively like it try something else.
There isn't a dexos 1 approved 0w30 for winter use but Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 which is, is actually lighter than even Mobil 1 0w30 at all but extremely cold temp's, so you could try that.
If you're not going to have a used oil analysis done to optimize your OCI I'd keep them short at about 5,000 miles.
 
sciphi said:
Use the Delco syn blend, but change it at 5000 miles maximum, even if the OLM is still indicating 50% life left. The turbo rips that oil to shreds by 5000 miles.

For maximum protection while staying in warranty, a full synthetic dexos1 5w30 would be ideal. I've run Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 with okay results changed at 7000 miles and sorta-bad results changed at 9000 miles.

If you're sticking with a full synthetic, change it at 7500-8000 miles at the latest, even though the OLM says it can go longer. With the 1.4T, mileage is the biggest determining factor on when to change the oil, not the OLM. Don't go past 8000 miles on a full synthetic, and sleep well at night.


Check to see if you have the DI engine. GM has had some problems with their 3.6 DI engines (Timming Chain replacement)
due to fuel dilution. They had to reset the OLM on these engines. 8000 miles may be too long.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom