10w40 ?

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I was just wondering if anyone here runs 10w40 conventional in a modern car or truck? I recently was talking to a guy that runs 10w40 PYB in summer and 5w30 in his 2010 V6 Toyota Tacoma.
 
I have often run semi-synthetic 10W-40 in Oz. They are very common here and all rated SN and A3/B4. Typical examples being DuraBlend, Magnatec and Shell Helix.

The mineral 40 weights are mostly 15w40 while the synthetics are mostly 0W or 5W-40 in Oz

I used a lot of Valvoline DuraBlend 10W-40 in my cars and had no problems with it.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
I have often run semi-synthetic 10W-40 in Oz. They are very common here and all rated SN and A3/B4. Typical examples being DuraBlend, Magnatec and Shell Helix.
The mineral 40 weights are mostly 15w40 while the synthetics are mostly 0W or 5W-40 in Oz
I used a lot of Valvoline DuraBlend 10W-40 in my cars and had no problems with it.


Sounds familiar with me here .
Honestly yet to see one mineral 10W40 physically.
 
I've used it quite a bit in my 1987 Toyota 4Runner, 60,000 miles worth of OCI's on a ton of different oils that I paid between 15-27 cents per quart for. Much of it was 20w50 and 10w40, with a UOA for almost every one of those OCI and an engine that now has 315,000+ miles I can tell you from my experience I saw no benefit at all over running a 5/10w30 . My recommendation would be to stick with the specified grade, if you have low oil pressure leading you to want to use the 40wt I could see that but it's more of a band aid on a bullet wound at that point than a cure.
 
Id run a 10w30 kn a tacoma. In fact in my 95 tacoma i ran 10w30 mobil 7500 with liquimoly mos2 and got 30 mpg with a modified air box and a new exhaust w a high flow muffler. I did have transmission and rear end drained and filled w valvoline gear oil .
 
It is changing but for many years, semi-synthetic 10W40 was the go-to oil grade in the UK. It's still very prominent on supermarket shelves. For reasons that I never quite understood, the Brits never took to (or more likely were never offered) 10W30 which you could argue is the more sensible and cheaper viscosity grade. You can get 10W30 if you look for it but it's usually advertised as racing oil for bikes. As with everywhere else, 5W30 Group III synthetics are gradually displacing 10W40 which itself is a bit odd considering we haven't needed 5W oils in the UK since the last Ice Age retreated!
 
In summer weather in most of the US there's little difference in running a 0w/5w/10w-40 oil assuming the add pack is similar. Since a lot of people do annual oil changes that run through a cold winter, they stay on the 0w/10w grades.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Right now I run 5W-40 in the Saab 2.3t. 10W-40 is so passe' ...
yup rt6 here in my 2.3. Supertech 5w30 in the v6.
 
I just re-read the original post and see that it pertained to 'conventional' 10W40, as in all Group I or Group II based oils.

In Europe you could never buy all Group I 10W40 as this would fall foul of the 13% max Noack spec. Typically you would need a minimum of 20% Group III just to get the Noack inside the limit. The same could be said for a lot of the early Group II base oils although some of the newer Group IIs, made using the latest generation of hydrogenation catalysts, can in theory yield an all Group II 10W40 (although the ACEA engine tests would still force you into semi-synthetic territory).

In the US, given the fact you use high SSI VII's, don't have the KO30 shear test or the Peugeot TU5 and have a more forgiving 15% max Noack spec, you can have all Group II 10W40. However IMO, it would be a horrible oil on account of it's high VII content and should be avoided.


Oh, and I had no idea that Lower Uncton existed until I Googled it and found out how famous it was!!!
 
Still using up the Valvoline NG ML 10W40 on the high mileage Cherokee in my sig-seems to like it & it's a little less noisy w/slightly higher hot oil pressure than the 5W30 ML full syn that I ran in it prior.
 
Hence, the relevance of picking an ACEA A3B4 10W40 over an API SN/M/L 10W40 ...
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Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
I have a bunch of Maxlife Nextgen 10W-40 which I'll be using up in my 05 F-350.

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I just scored 20 quarts of this at NAPA for 1.00 each. 7 are already in a friends Trailblazer with the Vortec I6.
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
Honestly yet to see one mineral 10W40 physically.

Here, it's the opposite. Finding a 10w-40 synthetic usually requires a niche market (i.e. Mobil 1's 10w-40 motorcycle oil) or a niche product altogether, like RP 10w-40. I don't think I've ever seen an A3/B4 10w-40 in the wild here.

As SonofJoe indicates, it's something I would avoid. General Motors was always beating the drum against that grade, too, for a lot of years. I don't think we even have any A3/B4 blends here, except perhaps some specifically imported. All our A3/B4 stuff pretty much 0w-30, 5w30, 0w-40, and 5w-40, marketed as synthetics. I'd probably consider a boutique 10w-40 to be "fairly close" to an A3/B4 and be a fairly suitable oil, but when the A3/B4 options from the majors are available at half the price, and a conventional 15w40 E7, E9 cheaper still, there's not a lot of incentive for me to grab a 10w-40.

As I hinted at above, Imperial Oil (our Exxon-Mobil) only has one 40 grade product outside of HDEOs, and that's the 10w-40 motorcycle oil. They don't even make a 10w-40 PCMO for this market. Shell has a couple examples. Castrol makes a 10w-40, but their rule in Canada is that if a grade is possible, they'll have it on the shelf somewhere.
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