10k with high miles?

[LeakySeals]

I've been against it but.. Its clean, runs a full syn, has a high efficiency extended interval filter. Consumes 1qt every 2500-3k. Current OCI is 7k-7500. Took me 15k to get rid of the sludge and varnish so I've been reluctant to go any farther. That and the high mileage. Should I go to a 10k interval on the Camry, or is that one experiment I should pass on? I'm kind of itching to start driving the GP daily but I dont want to kill the Camry, its been good to me.

 

[skyship]

Lots of folks do 10K mile OCI's on older cars, BUT it is a good idea to get a used oil analysis (With TBN) done at your present OCI figure to confirm extending it is OK. If you are doing mostly highway miles there is a very good chance it will be OK.

 

[The_Jake]

Not on a 2AZ-FE. I would run 5000 and that is it on any Toyota.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: The_Jake
Not on a 2AZ-FE. I would run 5000 and that is it on any Toyota.


5K miles is the recommended OCI, but if you are doing mostly highway miles with an engine in good condition and use a good full synthetic there is no real reason why the OCI can't be extended, BUT only with a used oil analysis program to check the actual results.

 

[LeakySeals]

Its the city part of 50/50. Some of the most abusive miles there are. Especially the body and suspension. Downtown Boston. But I'm replenishing 3+qts of a 4qt sump over 10k. Does that account for anything?

 

[Azeem]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Its the city part of 50/50. Some of the most abusive miles there are. Especially the body and suspension. Downtown Boston. But I'm replenishing 3+qts of a 4qt sump over 10k. Does that account for anything?


I think 10k is absolutely doable if only 1 quart is there for the whole OCI and the rest are replenished,IMO.

I wouldnot lose sleep over it because it worked on my 95 F150 with 302 engine and the truck is still running with the current owner with 305k miles on itS original engine and transmission.

 

[zerosoma]

Originally Posted By: The_Jake
Not on a 2AZ-FE. I would run 5000 and that is it on any Toyota.


Seriously? You mean Toyotas can't handle longer than 5k OCI? Total ignorance! Delete this post!

 

[tig1]

I do 10K OCIs with Mobil 1 oils. With the two Fords I have now I never add oil to them. I don't do used oil analysis. 10K OCIs are a snap.

 

[afoulk]

Originally Posted By: The_Jake
Not on a 2AZ-FE. I would run 5000 and that is it on any Toyota.

What's wrong with a 10,000 mile oci on a 2AZ-FE, especially with synthetic?

 

[KitaCam]

It would be interesting and revealing to do an oil analysis checking the oil's viability
after 8k miles and
after the 3rd quart of replenishment is added and run for a few hundred miles to mix thoroughly...

That would answer whether you could go another 2k miles.

 

[fisher83]

I say it depends on what you hope to gain. Is it possible to do it without harming your engine? Almost certainly. Is it going to save you a ton of money? Probably not. If you drive the vehicle for another 100,000 miles you will only save yourself about 4 or so oil changes so I don't see any real benefit to changing what you are currently doing.

 

[steve20]

with an engine that burns a quart every 3K I'd use SuperTech conventional and be done with it. A worn engine is, a worn engine -- no use putting syn in it

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Its the city part of 50/50. Some of the most abusive miles there are. Especially the body and suspension. Downtown Boston. But I'm replenishing 3+qts of a 4qt sump over 10k. Does that account for anything?


Topping the oil up will keep the additives working, so a low TBN figure is less likely to be a limiting factor, BUT because your oil consumption is rather high it might be worth using a major brand High Mileage oil rather than a full synthetic. Conventional oils can still do 10K miles, but because you are extending the OCI beyond the recommended figure the decision should be based on the UOA figures at your present 7.5K OCI. If those figures are good at 7.5K then 10K should be fine, but because of the 50% in traffic figures the fuel contamination and wear metals might be of interest.

 

[LeakySeals]

The Full Synthetic I'm using is a High Mileage oil. The oil consumption issue is the valve seals.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: steve20
with an engine that burns a quart every 3K I'd use SuperTech conventional and be done with it. A worn engine is, a worn engine -- no use putting syn in it

I could never do that. Paying a little extra for oil at Walmart is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the car or engine teardown. I buy sludge bombs cheap that don't run so good as commuter cars. Clean them up with additives, nurse them back to life on quality fluids and go another 200k. Thats who I bought this car from at 137k. Somebody that was pouring in the cheap stuff. Engine could not maintain idle. Paid $2k cash and towed it away. Just a fouled engine that burns a little oil. Sludge bomb.

 

[G35_TX]

All new toyota a have a 10k service cycle now. So they must think I can do that on synthetic.

 

[LeakySeals]

They still have the 5k severe service interval. See the ** in your manual. My dads 2012 has some of what they consider severe, so hes in the middle at 7500.

 

[lockguy]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: steve20
with an engine that burns a quart every 3K I'd use SuperTech conventional and be done with it. A worn engine is, a worn engine -- no use putting syn in it

I could never do that. Paying a little extra for oil at Walmart is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the car or engine teardown. I buy sludge bombs cheap that don't run so good as commuter cars. Clean them up with additives, nurse them back to life on quality fluids and go another 200k. Thats who I bought this car from at 137k. Somebody that was pouring in the cheap stuff. Engine could not maintain idle. Paid $2k cash and towed it away. Just a fouled engine that burns a little oil. Sludge bomb.


Im pretty sure you don't get a prematurely worn engine from cheap oil, you get it from not changing the oil when you need to. I use the cheapest gf-5 oil i can find and my engine is fine.

 

[JohnnyZ52]

Originally Posted By: lockguy
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: steve20
with an engine that burns a quart every 3K I'd use SuperTech conventional and be done with it. A worn engine is, a worn engine -- no use putting syn in it

I could never do that. Paying a little extra for oil at Walmart is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the car or engine teardown. I buy sludge bombs cheap that don't run so good as commuter cars. Clean them up with additives, nurse them back to life on quality fluids and go another 200k. Thats who I bought this car from at 137k. Somebody that was pouring in the cheap stuff. Engine could not maintain idle. Paid $2k cash and towed it away. Just a fouled engine that burns a little oil. Sludge bomb.


Im pretty sure you don't get a prematurely worn engine from cheap oil, you get it from not changing the oil when you need to. I use the cheapest gf-5 oil i can find and my engine is fine.


Some engines are more prone to lubrication related issues than others. Also, should you have to extend your OCI for whatever reason, you'd be safe with some of the better lubricants vs the cheaper stuff. Modern cheaper oils aren't like days of old, but I'd be concerned the used oil analysis might say something different.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: lockguy
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: steve20
with an engine that burns a quart every 3K I'd use SuperTech conventional and be done with it. A worn engine is, a worn engine -- no use putting syn in it

I could never do that. Paying a little extra for oil at Walmart is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the car or engine teardown. I buy sludge bombs cheap that don't run so good as commuter cars. Clean them up with additives, nurse them back to life on quality fluids and go another 200k. Thats who I bought this car from at 137k. Somebody that was pouring in the cheap stuff. Engine could not maintain idle. Paid $2k cash and towed it away. Just a fouled engine that burns a little oil. Sludge bomb.


Im pretty sure you don't get a prematurely worn engine from cheap oil, you get it from not changing the oil when you need to. I use the cheapest gf-5 oil i can find and my engine is fine.

Agreed. I was referring to poor maintenance/cheap stuff combined.