0W40 vs 10W30 Mobil 1

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Hello. My car is a 1995 Buick Park Avenue with the normally aspirated 3800 Series II engine. I purchased new in March 1995. Dino oil used with 3,000 oci until 20,000 miles, then 10W30 Mobil 1 with 5,000 oci. Now has 260,655 miles on odometer. Never burned a drop of oil. One-hundred percent highway miles (first brake job at 180,000 and still running on that one). Heated garage and used only on weekends. I am intrigued by the 0W40 Mobil 1 that I am now seeing. Please advise if I can safely change-over to this viscosity, or should I stick with the 10W30. Thank you.
 
My personal opinion is that the 0w40 would work very well in this engine and is a better choice over the 10w30.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
My personal opinion is that the 0w40 would work very well in this engine and is a better choice over the 10w30.

I think you are correct. I've been wanting to try a thin 40wt. in this engine, but haven't done it yet, because I get the M1 10W-30 in 5 qt. jugs cheap. The 0W-40 only comes in qts. here at a much higher price.

This engine might like GC too, but I can't get it.

Syntec 10W-40 also looks promising.

Mine has always run fine on Syntec and M1 10W-30 though. Only the uoa's will tell the tale, but can't argue with KRISI success so far.
 
Hello and
welcome.gif
My gut tells me that since your car has done so well on the 10w30 and uses no oil, why change? You don't really need a 0W oil since you have a heated garage and the engine was probably designed to use 10w30. At any rate it sounds like you have done an outstanding job in maintaining the car.
 
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'd leave it be until it started burning oil, then I'd jump over to a thicker grade.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'll hopefully get more info (via replies) and see if I change to 0W40. My
garage opens right at an entrance ramp to a highway. Every Sat and Sun my son and I go from our home in Queens, NY to Rhode Island for breakfast. Round trip is 292 miles. We see one red light each way. Only time brakes are touched is to get off highway, make the turn-around in RI and to pay tolls and get gas. Previous car was a 1978 Riviera (bought new) and this car got 172,000 on original brakes. Thanks fellas.
 
Interesting, must be a good breakfast.
wink.gif


292
x 2days a week
x 52 weeks a year
x 9 years
=273312 miles.

-T

[ March 10, 2004, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: T-Keith ]
 
I vote for the "if something works, don't change it."

No reason to change from the 10w30, but the 0w and 5w-40s can be used. Its a coin toss decision. 5k highway only heated garage 'oil change interval' shouldn't stress any oil.

BTW, breakfast in RI is best!
 
It would not hurt anything to try the 0W40 but it looks like there is no need to. You could always try it and see how you like it.
 
I agree, if it is not broke or consuming oil, don't change. But, like all of us, I am always experimenting. Need something to keep me busy...
Pedro
 
I run 15W40,20W50,5W50 in mine depending on temps and it loves it! I do not see why 0W40 would be any different!
 
The only thing I would be afraid of is using a diesel oil and having it start cleaning your engine out.
mobil 1 0w40 would be fine... and if you did oil analysis once you could probably run it for a quite high mileage interval...

Rand
 
Personally not a fan of Mobil 0W40 ... notas stout as Mobil could have made it.

M1 10W30 is quite stout on the other hand and has clearly demonstrated its resilience up to 10k (application UOA specific that is)

3800 Series II tend to "burn" M1 5W & 10W30 fast however.

I have no experiance with German Castrol/SLX 0W30 to comment on how this engine likes it.

M1 does make the 3800 lifter noise more noticeble.

I disgree with the engine cleaning....the 3800 can easily digest a diesel 15W40 with no problem.

Just make sure your 1st oil change of diesel or synthetic is 3,000k. Reason being the oil will quickly become jet black the 1st and second change.

I say stay with the same weight but use AMSOIL ASL 10W30 over the Mobil. Not all engines work best with M1.

I would even say you may see better wear numbers running Chevron Supreme 10W30 versus a synthetic in this engine
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What about the new 5W-40 Mobil 1 truck and suv oil? How would this work in this application? Any advantages / disadvantages when compared to 10W-30 or 0W-40 M1?
 
If you not having any problems with cold startup or low oil pressure I'd stick with it. What do you use your car for that you have that much all-highway? How'd do you go 180,000 without a brake job?

-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rand:
The only thing I would be afraid of is using a diesel oil and having it start cleaning your engine out.
mobil 1 0w40 would be fine... and if you did oil analysis once you could probably run it for a quite high mileage interval...

Rand


If he has around 230,000 miles on Mobil 1 there is nothing for the diesel oil to clean out. M1 is extreemly clean oil.
 
M1 use may not be as clean as people think.

After using it for some 80k miles then doing 2 Auto-RX treatments?

My mpg has went up alot and the oil came out black after the 1st 1k wash.

Case in point...the rings must have had some level of contamination which the Auto_RX helped remove.

The engine may not be varnished but contamination surely happened.
 
After that many miles any engine will have crap around it somewhere. I dont care what oil.

""Personally not a fan of Mobil 0W40 ... notas stout as Mobil could have made it.""

What makes 0w40 less stout than 10w30???


Rand
 
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