0W-20 in a Snow King?

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I have a Troy-Bilt snow blower with a Tecumseh Snow King engine. I'm not sure of the size, I think it's a 5.5hp model as it has a 24" path. I've been running 5W-30 in it since new and I've had it since 2005. Oil has only been changed twice with a little bit of top-off added each year. Engine is spec'd for xW-30.

I have a bunch of NAPA Synthetic 0W-20 on the shelf to use up. Is that a bad idea for this engine? I've heard Snow Kings can shear oil pretty badly, and I'm also concerned about fuel dilution, oil consumption, and condensation. The better flow when cold is appealing though.

I also have M1 OW-40, M1 TDT 5W-40, and VV ML 10W-30 on hand.

0W-20 in winter OPE: good idea or bad idea?
 
I doubt it will hurt it. It's up to you. Oil temps in these engines probably stays pretty low. Based on oil temps in our riding mower, I'd be surprised if they hit 160 most times.
 
In very cold tempatures I don't see why 0w-20 would be an issue.

Regular changes is the key to these small engines.
Fuel dilution can cause shear. Condensation is from the engine not getting hot enough.

The 0w20 woulden't solve these, but regular changes would.

The only thing that the 0w20 would help out with is cold starts on very very cold days.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
In very cold tempatures I don't see why 0w-20 would be an issue.

Regular changes is the key to these small engines.
Fuel dilution can cause shear. Condensation is from the engine not getting hot enough.

The 0w20 woulden't solve these, but regular changes would.

The only thing that the 0w20 would help out with is cold starts on very very cold days.


Coldest it will probably be run is 10*F. Colder than that, I'm staying inside to drink coffee.

Anyone have viscosity numbers for a typical 0W-20 at 10*F versus a typical 5W-30 or 10W-30?
 
that would depend totally on the exact brand and oil.

A low vi 0w20 like castrol syntec/edge titanium
(the gold bottle one)

might not be much different than a 5w20 or 5w30


while a high vi oil like toyota, eneos, idemitsu etc might be abit better.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rand
that would depend totally on the exact brand and oil.

A low vi 0w20 like castrol syntec/edge titanium
(the gold bottle one)

might not be much different than a 5w20 or 5w30


while a high vi oil like toyota, eneos, idemitsu etc might be abit better.


Let's consider: NAPA Full Synth 0W-20 and PYB 5W-30
 
Since the Tecumseh is speced for a XW30, why not try a 0W30?

Quote:
Superdave: Regular changes is the key to these small engines.

Fuel dilution can cause shear. Condensation is from the engine not getting hot enough.


For sure!
 
A lot of the older Snow Kings recommended a 20 weight.

I don't think 0w20 would be bad for it, but monitor the oil level VERY carefully. When the oil level gets low on Tecumseh engines they throw rods. Keep the oil full, make sure it doesn't over rev, and that engine will last a long time.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Since the Tecumseh is speced for a XW30, why not try a 0W30?


I may end up doing that if I decide to buy something rather than use what's on the shelf.
 
At the oil temps that thing is likely to achieve, the 0W-20 will be more viscous than my Florida generator using 15W-50 M1, while heating water on a hot day.

Would be nice to know the actual oil temps.

I say it's not likely to be problem.
 
Two oil changes in eight years would indicate that either the machine is somewhat neglected or, more likely, very lightly used.

If it's the former, you need to change the oil more frequently.

If it's the latter, I'd buy a quart of something like 10W40 and blend it with the 0W20 you already have. You should be good for another eight years using half a quart or less of the 10W40 every four years.
 
I through a rod in my Snow King when I ran PP 5w30 in it. Not saying it's because of the oil. But after replacing the rod I went back to conventional 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Two oil changes in eight years would indicate that either the machine is somewhat neglected or, more likely, very lightly used.

If it's the former, you need to change the oil more frequently.

If it's the latter, I'd buy a quart of something like 10W40 and blend it with the 0W20 you already have. You should be good for another eight years using half a quart or less of the 10W40 every four years.


We get maybe three serious snowfalls a year, with a bunch more lighter ones. If I had to guess, I'd say I put about 10 hours each year on it.
 
Originally Posted By: hemitom
My 1980 snow-king 10 H.P speced 5w20.


Yep, the 1979 B&S 7hp in my former Toro called for 5W-20. I'd assume that they meant mineral, since M1 was the only 5W-20 syn at that time.
 
For comparison purposes, consider the following:

Mobil 1 0W20 has a published viscosity of 8.7 cSt at 100 degrees C.

Mobil 1 5W30 has a published viscosity of 11.0 cSt at 100 degrees C

The 5W30 is a little over 25% thicker at operating temps.

Of course, I doubt the oil in a snowblower engine gets anywhere near 100C/212F mark but the range (and the viscosity difference) should be relatively constant throughout the temp range.

Yeti Blood, on the other hand, has a viscosity of around 10.3 at the same benchmark temp:

https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=77115&docFormat=PDF

This is what I will be running in my 2011 Ariens snowblower with a B&S Snow Series engine. I had been using leftover Pennzoil 10W40 High Mileage during break in. That's just about over now.

My guess is that the Tecumseh engine will survive fine with the 0W20, just watch for excess consumption.

However, I'd never go out and buy that weight of oil for that application.
 
"Of course, I doubt the oil in a snowblower engine gets anywhere near 100C/212F mark"

Use an infrared thermometer and take a reading of an air cooled engine, snow blower or otherwise at full operating temperature. 212F will be a number on it's way to temperatures much higher.
 
Oil temp getting over 212F in a snowblower?

I'd easily believe that in a tractor or lawnmower in August ... or a portable pump/generator fun for hours (even days) on end.

But a snowblower run in 10-30F weather for an hour or two?

Won't an infrared thermometer just give you temps of metal parts on the outside of the engine? I'm sure they'll be much higher than 212F, especially near the exhaust, but I don't know how you could get accurate oil temps without a proper sensor located in the sump.
 
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