'08 Ram CTD rear wheel bearing questions

[D60]

I'm looking at maybe needing to replace a rear wheel seal on an '08 (ok it's technically '07.5 with 6.7) Ram 2500 4wd.

I'm not certain of the exact model of the rear but assume it's the largest available (maybe AAM 11.5?)

Last time I did this I didn't get warm fuzzies about the spindle nut and keeper because the nut essentially has "nylon" for the keeper to press into. Theoretically if you're not replacing bearings you'd want the nut to wind up back in the same place, meaning the keeper presses into the same grooves which can make it seemingly loose.

I guess questions are:
1) is it SOP to just use a new spindle nut every time, or is reuse ok, even if the keeper is going back into the same nylon grooves?

2) is it even possible for the keeper to walk out enough to fall out? If it were intelligently designed it would hit the backside of the axle flange before it could come out.

3) anyone have the reco'd wheel bearing torque procedure for seating and then properly preloading the (used) bearings? I'm sure I could find this elsewhere online with a web search so not a critical question here.

 

[clinebarger]

It's the Dana differentials that used the nylon lock nuts, The AAM uses a circlip & a keyway.

*Install hub bearing nut with Socket 8954 (1) and tighten with torque wrench (2) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) while rotating the hub.
*Back off nut about 30° and align next hub nut key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking key.
*Endplay should be .001" to .010"

Service information doesn't clarify if this is new bearing or used bearing procedure, I usually just measure endplay before disassembly & set it back the same for used bearings.

 

[D60]

It's the Dana differentials that used the nylon lock nuts, The AAM uses a circlip & a keyway.

*Install hub bearing nut with Socket 8954 (1) and tighten with torque wrench (2) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) while rotating the hub.
*Back off nut about 30° and align next hub nut key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking key.
*Endplay should be .001" to .010"

Service information doesn't clarify if this is new bearing or used bearing procedure, I usually just measure endplay before disassembly & set it back the same for used bearings.

Thank you. Do you reuse the nylon lock nuts if so equipped?

 

[clinebarger]

I replace them....Same nut fits Dodge-Dana 60, 70, & 80.

 

[D60]

I replace them....Same nut fits Dodge-Dana 60, 70, & 80.

Thank you again! OEM or Dorman? (I'm really not trying to torture you, I swear)

 

[clinebarger]

I try to avoid Dorman!

Spicer # 47163 which is OE without the Mopar markup.
Mopar # 52069306.

Alternatively.....If you wanted to get away from the nylon lock nut altogether.....

Spicer # 33732, Hub Nut, Need 2 per hub.
Spicer # 33733, Nut retainer, Need 1 per hub.

 

[D60]

{snip}
Alternatively.....If you wanted to get away from the nylon lock nut altogether.....

Spicer # 33732, Hub Nut, Need 2 per hub.
Spicer # 33733, Nut retainer, Need 1 per hub.

Revisiting this, I'm trying to recall how they anchor these round nuts? The 33732 is round but I'm accustomed to bending the washer tabs over a hex?

edit: I guess maybe the hooked tabs fall into the 6 grooves?

 

[clinebarger]

Screw the inner spanner nut onto the end of the spindle. Torque the inner nut to 50 ft.lbs while rotating the hub. Then back it off 1 /8 of a turn.
Install the star shaped lock washer with the outer tabs pointing outward. Align the tab on the inside of the washer with the slot in the spindle. Put a coat of grease on the back of the outer spanner nut. Screw the outer spanner nut on the spindle and tighten to 70 ft-lbs. Then bend at least one of the tabs over the front of the outer nut into one of the six points on the nut. The hub should spin freely with no pre-load on the bearings, but not have more than .001” of end play.

OTC socket number 7090A Or equivalent.

 

[D60]

Well after all that the truck now has the "14 bolt" (so yeah, AAM) method of key and circlip.

The first time I worked on this it had the nylon nut, but the rear end caught fire in Kansas and he had the entire thing replaced. The replacement rear uses the AAM setup, which I like because the key is long enough that it DOES appear to me would hit the shaft flange before it could fall out even if the circlip went AWOL