06 Corolla Sludge :: MMO Experiment

[mongo161]

There are some honest Jiffy Lubes and E-Z Lubes that people place their trust in and get quality work done by honest people. There are some Good Fram Filters out there also and it is not good to say that all Fram Oil Filters are OCOD. The tough guard and extended guard are very good filters for the money. Not all Mobil 1 oil is loaded with Iron and causes breakdown prematurely. It is unfair to say that Mobil 1 has degenerated into a bottom tier oil and it is just a rip off based on name and prior reputation since we don't have all the facts.

IMO...All situations should be taken on a case by case basis. All cases should not be automatically lumped into the bad category since some products at certain times work flawlessly.

 

[Kuato]

I'm thinking the car has blown up, or it's going for a 15k OCI, since the original poster hasn't been back since January.

I'd sure like to see the "after" pictures.

 

[panthermike]

Originally Posted By: fredjacksonsan
I'm thinking the car has blown up, or it's going for a 15k OCI, since the original poster hasn't been back since January.

I'd sure like to see the "after" pictures.


I spoke to him via PM recently; there will be no updates

This car belongs to his gf's friend, and he's no longer w/ that gf.

He did say that after two changes, the sludge was over 50% removed.

 

[Spyder7]

Good to hear (about the sludge removal that is). Without having to look through the entire thread to see what oil he used (assuming its posted in it), any idea what it was?

-Spyder

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: fredjacksonsan
I'm thinking the car has blown up, or it's going for a 15k OCI, since the original poster hasn't been back since January.

I'd sure like to see the "after" pictures.


I spoke to him via PM recently; there will be no updates

This car belongs to his gf's friend, and he's no longer w/ that gf.



Did he say if it was him leaving her or her leaving him? If he ditched her, he should have been a true BITOG member and put up with whatever he had to to see this experiment through.

 

[Summerwind]

I am sure that the break-up was the Guys fault though....

 

[panthermike]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Good to hear (about the sludge removal that is). Without having to look through the entire thread to see what oil he used (assuming its posted in it), any idea what it was?

-Spyder


I believe he was using MC5000.

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: fredjacksonsan
I'm thinking the car has blown up, or it's going for a 15k OCI, since the original poster hasn't been back since January.

I'd sure like to see the "after" pictures.


I spoke to him via PM recently; there will be no updates

This car belongs to his gf's friend, and he's no longer w/ that gf.

He did say that after two changes, the sludge was over 50% removed.


Just to recap.. How did he do that?

And it is better to have Loved and Lost..

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: fredjacksonsan
I'm thinking the car has blown up, or it's going for a 15k OCI, since the original poster hasn't been back since January.

I'd sure like to see the "after" pictures.


I spoke to him via PM recently; there will be no updates

This car belongs to his gf's friend, and he's no longer w/ that gf.



Did he say if it was him leaving her or her leaving him? If he ditched her, he should have been a true BITOG member and put up with whatever he had to to see this experiment through.

Screw that, I wanna know if the Sludge removal was the result of the MMO being in whatever Oil he wanted!

He put Women ahead of Oil. He must wear the Stone of Shame!

If he comes back... We can attach the Stone of Triumph!

 

[Summerwind]

And it is better to have Loved and Lost..

Not always my friend....said respectfully

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Good to hear (about the sludge removal that is). Without having to look through the entire thread to see what oil he used (assuming its posted in it), any idea what it was?

-Spyder


I believe he was using MC5000.


I'm sure we have this in Canada somewhere, just likely under another name. Mobil is the only one who does this - invent new names for their products sold north of the border.

At any rate the PP I have on hand should work just as well (and thankfully SOPUS is consistent with their North American product naming).

Maybe if I were dead set on nothing but Mobil, the naming thing wouldn't irk as much. But to me its just another oil (in that like the rest it has its strengths and weaknesses, and mileage will vary from person to person), and everything else is sold by the same name here and there so I know exactly what people are referring to when they mention something here.

But Mobil...

-Spyder

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I'm sure we have this in Canada somewhere, just likely under another name. Mobil is the only one who does this - invent new names for their products sold north of the border.


Yes, it's irksome. The Mobil 1000 and 2000 (I think that's what they're called up here) are usually not terribly cheap, either.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I'm sure we have this in Canada somewhere, just likely under another name. Mobil is the only one who does this - invent new names for their products sold north of the border.


Yes, it's irksome. The Mobil 1000 and 2000 (I think that's what they're called up here) are usually not terribly cheap, either.


2000 is apparently their HM oil here. All I can glean from looking at 1000 is that its their standard dino - so I cant tell just by looking at the bottle whether its the MC5K sold in the US, or something else entirely. The other Mobil products I have seen here are Mobil syn and Mobil syn EP.

I think the Mobil syn is Group III hydro-cracked, the same as Syntec, PP, etc; while EP is either Group IV PAO or Group V Ester. Not sure on those either. Their Syn is priced much higher than PP and Syntec. EP is around the same price as Edge, but both are out of my reach, which is why I am not too familiar with it - too expensive to use, so no incentive to research it at all.

Mobil 1000 is also over-priced compared to PYB, GTX, and Supertech (one of my new favourite dinos based on price and scores on the PQI website).

-Spyder

 

[lipadj46]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7

I think the Mobil syn is Group III hydro-cracked, the same as Syntec, PP, etc; while EP is either Group IV PAO or Group V Ester. Not sure on those either. Their Syn is priced much higher than PP and Syntec. EP is around the same price as Edge, but both are out of my reach, which is why I am not too familiar with it - too expensive to use, so no incentive to research it at all.


You been here a month and have it all figured out huh, M1 EP an ester oil? In the US Mobil 1 and MC5000 are some of the cheaper oils you can buy in their categories.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I think the Mobil syn is Group III hydro-cracked, the same as Syntec, PP, etc; while EP is either Group IV PAO or Group V Ester. Not sure on those either. Their Syn is priced much higher than PP and Syntec. EP is around the same price as Edge, but both are out of my reach, which is why I am not too familiar with it - too expensive to use, so no incentive to research it at all.


As to what is Group III, IV, or V, I would suggest it's more complex than that. At least in some cases, it probably depends upon grade and specifications met as much as it does upon the product line. Besides, I can't think of any oil that is pure Group IV or V with only an additive pack, and no carrier oil.

As for pricing, not right now. M1 is substantially cheaper than all other synthetics at my Walmarts, at least. They all got rolled back over $3 per litre. It's a good $3 a litre cheaper than Syntec or PP right now. TDT was not part of the rollback.

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Mobil 1000 is also over-priced compared to PYB, GTX, and Supertech (one of my new favourite dinos based on price and scores on the PQI website).


That's true. At each store I've been to in the past few days (Walmart, CT, and Superstore), the Mobil 1000 was about fifty cents more per litre than the others you mentioned.

With respect to Mobil 2000, I personally don't like it, and I'm a Mobil fan. At least it wasn't as effective in my application when I needed quieting and reduction of leaks. Valvoline Max Life and Delvac 1300 were both far more effective at that. Maybe the Mobil 2000 does a better job when something is actually burning the oil. I don't know.

 

[OLAFF]

Sorry fellas, no updates on this, I really really wanted to see the results after the few oil changes and evaluate what kind of percentage of sludge was gone. Sadly I tried to contact the owner of the car, hence the GFs friend, but she is being a [censored] and wont really answer. Makes you not wanna care about her car I guess.

As for those of you curious about the GF, it was a mutual thing, we had different ideas about the near future, and nothing matched.

As far as my personal car, I reached 215k miles and had an interesting issue with it.

One day the car was low on oil and instead of picking up a quart to add, I saw the engine restore, and rememberd how a friend of mine used it on his car and he swore by it, he said it reduced oil consumption and he liked the results... so I grab a can 6cyl formula.

Poured it in the engine, drove home but that same night I went out to pick up a friend and while on the highway things appeared to be ok, but as soon as I got off the freeway and stopped at a light my oil pressure gauge bottomed out and practically all engine lights came on...

Slight throttle blip would bring it up but it would bottom out again.. I pulled off the road checked the oil, had enough in it.
Dropped the oil and the oil pan a few days after, and what I found inside was scary, inside the oil pan was what looked like copper or brass shavings quite large, you can see them with your bare eyes. Scarry, and then I looked online and noticed a lot of people having the same issues.
Now I can link this to the EngineRestore product, and perhaps the good quality WIX filter which must have got plugged up. It was rated at 15 microns filtration, and these particles were 20-30 in size.

New oil and new filter, oil issue was still there... so next solution was 200ml of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and issue went away completely.

I'm on the second oil change now with no additives and haven't seen the issue at all.

So moral of the story, doesn't matter how old your car is, don't bother with additives like that, in some cases they hurt more then they help.

On the bright side there was absolutely no sludge or dirt inside the engine.

CHEERS Fellas.

 

[ltslimjim]

Hello, and thanks for the update.

It is a shame your experience, but maybe your engine made it out alive without extreme damage. Some lessons are learned the hard way and next time just ask here about any additive before just using it based on a friend's experience.

Glad it's still running, at least.

I would not put Restore's additive in an engine unless an engine was near the graveyard anyway.

 

[shpankey]

If the tech didn't change the oil filter at all, that could explain the FRAM. Just b/c it's a FRAM doesn't necessarily mean she didn't take it to a particular shop. I worked at a quick lube shop as a teen & we had this 1 guy who would do that sometimes, rationalizing it to himself that the filters could go much further than 3k. It's also pretty easy to profile customers. He knew not to do this on older customers, frugal ones, especially males. But a business woman nicely dressed in a hurry who says things like "whatever just hurry" on a cell phone, add to that the shop being swamped & a manager constantly pushing speed, I can promise you some individuals (not companies) do sometimes cut corners.

I worked at a mechanic shop once that the owner would take our word & completely misconstrue it to the customer just to get bigger sales. Often replacing any and all related parts with new ones despite it only needing some minor repair. I didn't last long there b/c one of the customers I told the truth to confronted him. He was an old WW2 vet who wasn't afraid to confront him.

The thing is, individuals can do these things. Be it a tech, a manager or even an owner. So I'd be cautious labeling everyone or a whole company responsible b/c it is usually the very, very few. My advice is to find a reliable mechanic you can trust & build a report w/ them.

99 out of 100 people in the industry are good, honest, hard working people. Probably more. But a company like Jiffy Lube does NOT condone such behavior & would fire them most likely. But there are some techs who will try to get away w/ shortcuts or not replacing/checking something they're supposed to when they are in a rush & nobody is looking.