'06 4Runner diffs and trans - suggestions?

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I just bought a 2006 4Runner V8 with 20k miles that is still running on the factory-fill in the diffs and auto transmission.

What are the best fluids to use in this rig? The manual says GL-5 for the diffs and Toyota WS ATF for the trans.

I was thinking of Redline 70W90 for the diffs (NS or not?) and D4ATF for the 5spd auto trans --- unless there are better options
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Thanks
 
Amsoil 75W90 for the differentials and WS from Toyota for the transmission.

The transmission uses a fill plug for filling and an overflow tube for fluid level check. The unit must be in the correct temperature range for the level check to be accurate. NO scantool is needed. You can find instructions on AllData.
 
Redline D6, Amsoil ATF, and Toyota WS are your transmission options.

For the diffs, any full synthetic 90wt gear oil would be great. If the rear has an LSD, don't forget to grab some LSD additive.

Redline 75w90 is an excellent choice. Don't get the NS.
Amsoil severe gear 75w90 is another.
 
I just changed the dif last weekend at 50k for the second time , again with Red Line 75w-90. I use Red Line D4 in the transmission, but I don't have the one that requires the new Toyota only fluid, I've got the dipstick.
 
I have a similiar vehicle in the GX 470, I put in Mobil 1 75w-90 for about a year and let it rinse out the factory oil. The front, rear differentials and xfer case looked really bad with just 15 k (factory) miles on them. I just replaced it with Amsoil SVG at (25k)and the front differential oil took a beating with the Mobil 1 in it.
The transmission accepts only WS fluid which is oem or Redline D6. I don't believe Amsoil atf meet the spec yet.
If you drain and fill the transmission can you detail on how you did it and which fluid was used. The drain is only 1.4 quarts at a time.
 
Great info guys
thumbsup.gif
Does anyone know if both of the diffs and the transfer case all take the same fluid, i.e. Redline 75W90? No idea how I determine if the rear diff is LSD
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you can use fluid with friction modifier in non-LS differentials. If you want to find out, block the front wheels and jack up the rear axle. Put it in neutral, release the Park brake, and spin one of the rear tires. If both tires go the same direction its lsd, if they go different directions, its open.
 
You can use the redline 75w90 all over, you will need a 24 mm socket and a 10 mm hex key for the front differential. You should grease the fitting while you are doing the front diffy.
 
I can't speak for your 2006, but the fluid specs for my 2007 FJ are a bit odd:

Front Diff:

Full Time 4WD: GL-5, above -18 C SAE 90, below -18 C SAE 80W90. Capacity 1.4 litres

Part Time 4WD: GL-5, SAE 75W-90. Capacity 1 litre

Transfer Case:

Full Time 4WD: GL-5, SAE 75W-90. Capacity 1.4 litre

Part Time 4WD: GL-3, SAE 75W-90. Capacity 1 litre

Rear Axle:

GL-5, above -18 C SAE 90, below -18 C SAE 80W-90. Capacity without rear diff lock, 3 litres, with diff lock, 2.9 litres

I have a 5 speed auto trans in my FJ. The drain and fill is listed as 3 litres, which contradicts the shop manual of around 1.4 litres drain/fill. Toyota WS auto fluid.

Even the dealer isn't sure if "GL-3" is a typo or if Toyota is serious about using a pretty obsolete gear oil spec for the transfer case.

I've seen straight SAE 90 gear oils in Aus, India, and Quatar. I bet that would work very well in our -40 winters - yes I'm being sarcastic

I personally used Mobil Delvac Synthetic 75W-90, which is intended for commercial HD applications. I did the initial drain and refill at 1,000 km, the front axle and transfer case looked ok

The rear axle was black, and the magnet on the drain plug was loaded with fuzz. No actual pieces of gear, just heavy metal fuzz. I did a short run with cheap 80W-90, then refilled with the Delvac.

I did the axles and transfer case again at around 10,000 km. Front axle and transfer case oil looked new, the magnet on the front axle was absolutely spotless. The rear axle was almost black, but there was only minor fuzz on the magnet.

Based on my initial observations, it would probably be safe to go at least 2 years on the front axle and the transfer case. Rear axle at least yearly. I've observed a consistent 2 MPG improvement since using the Delvac SGO

Be forewarned the recessed hex plugs on the front axle are quite hard to get off. You must use the proper tool or you could bugger the recessed head. They use what appears to be a copper crush washer to prevent leaks

I would bet your rear axle is either open - if it's full time 4WD - or a mechanical locker in which you have to engage low range and push a button. An electric actuator locks the axle.

The auto trans is a bit of a challenge. I don't know how to attach pdf's in this forum, I would appreciate if somebody could give me a few tips. I could attach the pdf of my FJ shop manual, the spiel of getting the fluid level correct is quite an adventure.

Quote:


Great info guys
thumbsup.gif
Does anyone know if both of the diffs and the transfer case all take the same fluid, i.e. Redline 75W90? No idea how I determine if the rear diff is LSD
confused.gif



 
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