What ever you say man.But then again,people that have no jealousy dont ramble on defending their decision.
Last edited:
'05 with 148k on factory fill trans fluid. Change?
- Thread starter BKirk
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Eddie
If the fluid is nice in color and does not smelled burnt then I would not change it. If discolored and or burnt smelling then maybe a pan drain and refill but, no power flush.
There is no such thing as a "power flush". At that mileage it should be changed. If one is worried about new ATF starting to clean things up, install a Magnefine for $20 to catch the loosened crud.
If the fluid is nice in color and does not smelled burnt then I would not change it. If discolored and or burnt smelling then maybe a pan drain and refill but, no power flush.
There is no such thing as a "power flush". At that mileage it should be changed. If one is worried about new ATF starting to clean things up, install a Magnefine for $20 to catch the loosened crud.
I have been wondering the same thing about my '02 Corolla and whether I should change the Transmission fluid. Recently I went on a 500 mile round-trip and there were a few moments where my trans sounded like it wouldn't switch and, to me, sounded like the gears may have been grinding. I believe it's the 3 speed automatic. My fluid looks clear more than it is red.
If I do need to change my fluid should I follow the same recommended steps along with maybe using a magnifine filter. I had thought about additives such as ARX to improve my trans performance along with prolong its life as I can not afford a trans rebuild unless I were to get some help and do it myself.
~J
If I do need to change my fluid should I follow the same recommended steps along with maybe using a magnifine filter. I had thought about additives such as ARX to improve my trans performance along with prolong its life as I can not afford a trans rebuild unless I were to get some help and do it myself.
~J
Would the cooler return line method be considered "power flushing" the transmission? That way you can get all the fluid changed in one shot rather than dragging it out over 4 or 5 OCIs.
I would think the cooler return line method would do the exact same thing as a 5 time drain and fill but in 1/5 the time.
I would think the cooler return line method would do the exact same thing as a 5 time drain and fill but in 1/5 the time.
I would drop the pan, change the filter, clean the bottom of the pan, refill, then do a cooler line pseudo-power flush.
Castrol's Import Multi-Vehicle ATF is working well in our Hondas and likely would work well in Toyotas too.
Castrol's Import Multi-Vehicle ATF is working well in our Hondas and likely would work well in Toyotas too.
Thanks for the advice ...I have taken a picture so you can see the color of my transmission fluid ...I think for toyotas they use another color instead of red so I'm thinking my car has had its transmission fluid changed since new ...I bought it with 120+k miles.
Originally Posted By: Juhsga
Thanks for the advice ...I have taken a picture so you can see the color of my transmission fluid ...I think for toyotas they use another color instead of red so I'm thinking my car has had its transmission fluid changed since new ...I bought it with 120+k miles.
Doesnt look bad,but I would still do it. Best way to see the color condition,is on a whit paper towel.
Thanks for the advice ...I have taken a picture so you can see the color of my transmission fluid ...I think for toyotas they use another color instead of red so I'm thinking my car has had its transmission fluid changed since new ...I bought it with 120+k miles.
Doesnt look bad,but I would still do it. Best way to see the color condition,is on a whit paper towel.
Originally Posted By: Juhsga
I have been wondering the same thing about my '02 Corolla and whether I should change the Transmission fluid. Recently I went on a 500 mile round-trip and there were a few moments where my trans sounded like it wouldn't switch and, to me, sounded like the gears may have been grinding. I believe it's the 3 speed automatic. My fluid looks clear more than it is red.
If I do need to change my fluid should I follow the same recommended steps along with maybe using a magnifine filter. I had thought about additives such as ARX to improve my trans performance along with prolong its life as I can not afford a trans rebuild unless I were to get some help and do it myself.
~J
Looking at your dipstick it takes DexIII. So you can cooler line flush that thing with some less expensive DexIII run it 5000 then cooler line flush it again and put in some Mobil1 MVATF and you should be fine.
I have been wondering the same thing about my '02 Corolla and whether I should change the Transmission fluid. Recently I went on a 500 mile round-trip and there were a few moments where my trans sounded like it wouldn't switch and, to me, sounded like the gears may have been grinding. I believe it's the 3 speed automatic. My fluid looks clear more than it is red.
If I do need to change my fluid should I follow the same recommended steps along with maybe using a magnifine filter. I had thought about additives such as ARX to improve my trans performance along with prolong its life as I can not afford a trans rebuild unless I were to get some help and do it myself.
~J
Looking at your dipstick it takes DexIII. So you can cooler line flush that thing with some less expensive DexIII run it 5000 then cooler line flush it again and put in some Mobil1 MVATF and you should be fine.
I think now I really will need to flush my trans after I read a blog that explained the cold and hot, before I read that, I thought that having it full was ok for my trans. It looks like my trans is over-filled because this morning I checked my transmission fluid when it was cold and it looked exactly the same as the photo. The fluid level was in the hot range. I don't like the idea that my fluid is over-filled I wish I knew this when I initially bought the car.
What do you guys think about using ARX or Seafoam in addition to transmission fluid for my next fill???
A couple of issues with my car right now may be due to my trans but I am not sure.
First, sometimes my RPMs go way below what I believe the RPMs should be. For instance I'll be going 40 mph and it will drop below 1k RPM all of a sudden. It's not because I let off the gas, it just does it sometimes.
Secondly, I can step on the gas and it will rev to 6k RPM easily and the car feels like it doesn't go anywhere.
Since I have owned this vehicle I have driven it real easy keeping it below 3k rpm mostly to conserve on gas. But because I never had to step on it I believe I missed any evidence that my trans may have a problem.
What do you guys think? Am I over thinking this. Could it just be my ignition system, intake, vacuum, etc? A couple months ago I cleaned out my throttle body with lintless paper and denatured alcohol. That helped with my cars sluggishness a little bit but I always chalked up the sluggishness to the fact that it is a Corolla.
Also, I have read it's a better idea to use the Toyota brand transmission fluid ...for this method of changing it a few OCIs over time will it be safe just to use a cheap dex-III? Mobil 1 sounds good, but the Valvoline MaxLife ATF shouldn't be bad either, right?
~J
What do you guys think about using ARX or Seafoam in addition to transmission fluid for my next fill???
A couple of issues with my car right now may be due to my trans but I am not sure.
First, sometimes my RPMs go way below what I believe the RPMs should be. For instance I'll be going 40 mph and it will drop below 1k RPM all of a sudden. It's not because I let off the gas, it just does it sometimes.
Secondly, I can step on the gas and it will rev to 6k RPM easily and the car feels like it doesn't go anywhere.
Since I have owned this vehicle I have driven it real easy keeping it below 3k rpm mostly to conserve on gas. But because I never had to step on it I believe I missed any evidence that my trans may have a problem.
What do you guys think? Am I over thinking this. Could it just be my ignition system, intake, vacuum, etc? A couple months ago I cleaned out my throttle body with lintless paper and denatured alcohol. That helped with my cars sluggishness a little bit but I always chalked up the sluggishness to the fact that it is a Corolla.
Also, I have read it's a better idea to use the Toyota brand transmission fluid ...for this method of changing it a few OCIs over time will it be safe just to use a cheap dex-III? Mobil 1 sounds good, but the Valvoline MaxLife ATF shouldn't be bad either, right?
~J
Last edited:
Pull the pan and clean it, change the filter.
drain, fill repeat
drain, fill repeat
No need to spend big bucks on toyota fluid, when Dex III is Dex III. Brand doesn't really matter, unless you want a top quality synthetic.
I've used Valvoline Dex III in all my older toyota's without an issue. And, i had shifting performance improvements on EVERY drain and fill.
I've used Valvoline Dex III in all my older toyota's without an issue. And, i had shifting performance improvements on EVERY drain and fill.
Hey wg,
I went ahead and got a trans filter kit for my Corolla and purchased 4 QTs of Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Now about the cooler return line. My cooler out/in lines both go down into my trans. So would it be best to drain the fluid from the hose connected to the cooler rather than the trans. This way would be easiest for me. I have a photo I can share of my cooler lines.
So do I drain from the cooler hose from the cooler itself or from my trans? And if from my trans, will I need to get a siphoning hose to do this?
~J
I went ahead and got a trans filter kit for my Corolla and purchased 4 QTs of Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Now about the cooler return line. My cooler out/in lines both go down into my trans. So would it be best to drain the fluid from the hose connected to the cooler rather than the trans. This way would be easiest for me. I have a photo I can share of my cooler lines.
So do I drain from the cooler hose from the cooler itself or from my trans? And if from my trans, will I need to get a siphoning hose to do this?
~J
Disconnect the line at the radiator.
On the two Toyotas I have flushed, the lines are held on by spring clamps. If you disconnect the lower line, the fluid will flow out of the radiator-- so be sure to attach a clear 5/8" (?) tube to the radiator outlet.
On the two Toyotas I have flushed, the lines are held on by spring clamps. If you disconnect the lower line, the fluid will flow out of the radiator-- so be sure to attach a clear 5/8" (?) tube to the radiator outlet.
Hey Critic,
Would you be able to tell me after I remove the pan to replace the strainer/filter what size the retaining bolts are and if I'll need deep sockets and/or extensions to remove them. I only have a really minimal set of metric sockets and one ratchet. What other tools do you recommend for this job before I begin?
~J
P.S. I came across this forum where it gives a little more info about "power flushing" with cooler line ...
Quote:
It is theoretically possible to do your own transmission flush of sorts by disconnecting a transmission oil cooler line, letting the car idle in gear and adding fluid through the dipstick tube as the old fluid is pumped out. But I'd be leery of trying this due to the dangers of running the transmission low on fluid or driving the car over my foot. It can happen!
Found here!
Is this what is meant by "power flushing" or do I just drain most the fluid out from the cooler that way more of the fresh fluid is exchanged? I really appreciate everyone's help and expertise.
Would you be able to tell me after I remove the pan to replace the strainer/filter what size the retaining bolts are and if I'll need deep sockets and/or extensions to remove them. I only have a really minimal set of metric sockets and one ratchet. What other tools do you recommend for this job before I begin?
~J
P.S. I came across this forum where it gives a little more info about "power flushing" with cooler line ...
Quote:
It is theoretically possible to do your own transmission flush of sorts by disconnecting a transmission oil cooler line, letting the car idle in gear and adding fluid through the dipstick tube as the old fluid is pumped out. But I'd be leery of trying this due to the dangers of running the transmission low on fluid or driving the car over my foot. It can happen!
Found here!
Is this what is meant by "power flushing" or do I just drain most the fluid out from the cooler that way more of the fresh fluid is exchanged? I really appreciate everyone's help and expertise.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BKirk
My brother has a 2005 Lexus RX with 148k on the factory fill transmission fluid. Would it be best to leave it alone or change it? He was told by someone at a Toyota dealer that at this point it's best not to change it. Thanks for any advice.
Why would he leave it in that long to begin with? The damage is done...changing the fluid at this point won't work any miracles if he is having trans issues. With that said, it wouldn't hurt anything to put a fresh filter and fluid in it if he isn't having problems.
My brother has a 2005 Lexus RX with 148k on the factory fill transmission fluid. Would it be best to leave it alone or change it? He was told by someone at a Toyota dealer that at this point it's best not to change it. Thanks for any advice.
Why would he leave it in that long to begin with? The damage is done...changing the fluid at this point won't work any miracles if he is having trans issues. With that said, it wouldn't hurt anything to put a fresh filter and fluid in it if he isn't having problems.
I have a automotive mechanic friend that said it would be best to leave my transmission alone also. But until recently I had no idea that my trans was overfilled, plus I heard using additives such as ARX could possibly improve performance of transmissions after doing a few drain and refills ...and dropping the pan to clean out any metal wear particles. I am still looking into ARX and reading more about it. I know there's some BITOG guys on here that have used ARX in their transmissions with good results. When I find the forum, I'll post it here.
~J
~J
Originally Posted By: Juhsga
Hey Critic,
Would you be able to tell me after I remove the pan to replace the strainer/filter what size the retaining bolts are and if I'll need deep sockets and/or extensions to remove them. I only have a really minimal set of metric sockets and one ratchet. What other tools do you recommend for this job before I begin?
~J
P.S. I came across this forum where it gives a little more info about "power flushing" with cooler line ...
Quote:
It is theoretically possible to do your own transmission flush of sorts by disconnecting a transmission oil cooler line, letting the car idle in gear and adding fluid through the dipstick tube as the old fluid is pumped out. But I'd be leery of trying this due to the dangers of running the transmission low on fluid or driving the car over my foot. It can happen!
Found here!
Is this what is meant by "power flushing" or do I just drain most the fluid out from the cooler that way more of the fresh fluid is exchanged? I really appreciate everyone's help and expertise.
I have never dropped the pan before, so I can't answer that question, sorry. In the past, I drained the pan, refilled with new fluid, then proceeded to disconnecting the cooler line for the flush. The drain plug for the pan is either requires normal sockets or an allen key socket.
Power Flushing, Fluid exchange, flush, etc-- different terms for the same thing. You will always get the most complete fluid exchange by draining the pan and refilling with new fluid prior to disconnecting the cooler line and starting the engine. On most Toyotas, you will be able to "pump" 2-3 quarts out of the cooler line before you will need to stop the engine and add more fluid. Forget about adding fluid while the old fluid is pumping out-- it's likely that you'll make a big mess if you don't have someone keeping an eye on the hoses. Plus on some cars, the old fluid pumps out too quickly for you to refill simultaneously.
Hey Critic,
Would you be able to tell me after I remove the pan to replace the strainer/filter what size the retaining bolts are and if I'll need deep sockets and/or extensions to remove them. I only have a really minimal set of metric sockets and one ratchet. What other tools do you recommend for this job before I begin?
~J
P.S. I came across this forum where it gives a little more info about "power flushing" with cooler line ...
Quote:
It is theoretically possible to do your own transmission flush of sorts by disconnecting a transmission oil cooler line, letting the car idle in gear and adding fluid through the dipstick tube as the old fluid is pumped out. But I'd be leery of trying this due to the dangers of running the transmission low on fluid or driving the car over my foot. It can happen!
Found here!
Is this what is meant by "power flushing" or do I just drain most the fluid out from the cooler that way more of the fresh fluid is exchanged? I really appreciate everyone's help and expertise.
I have never dropped the pan before, so I can't answer that question, sorry. In the past, I drained the pan, refilled with new fluid, then proceeded to disconnecting the cooler line for the flush. The drain plug for the pan is either requires normal sockets or an allen key socket.
Power Flushing, Fluid exchange, flush, etc-- different terms for the same thing. You will always get the most complete fluid exchange by draining the pan and refilling with new fluid prior to disconnecting the cooler line and starting the engine. On most Toyotas, you will be able to "pump" 2-3 quarts out of the cooler line before you will need to stop the engine and add more fluid. Forget about adding fluid while the old fluid is pumping out-- it's likely that you'll make a big mess if you don't have someone keeping an eye on the hoses. Plus on some cars, the old fluid pumps out too quickly for you to refill simultaneously.
Quote:
I have never dropped the pan before, so I can't answer that question, sorry. In the past, I drained the pan, refilled with new fluid, then proceeded to disconnecting the cooler line for the flush. The drain plug for the pan is either requires normal sockets or an allen key socket.
Power Flushing, Fluid exchange, flush, etc-- different terms for the same thing. You will always get the most complete fluid exchange by draining the pan and refilling with new fluid prior to disconnecting the cooler line and starting the engine. On most Toyotas, you will be able to "pump" 2-3 quarts out of the cooler line before you will need to stop the engine and add more fluid. Forget about adding fluid while the old fluid is pumping out-- it's likely that you'll make a big mess if you don't have someone keeping an eye on the hoses. Plus on some cars, the old fluid pumps out too quickly for you to refill simultaneously.
Thx Critic,
I was thinking the same thing about that would make a lot of mess to flush and fill simultaneously. I'll give the method described a try. Good thing I am getting a good deal on the ATF. And I hope that the retaining bolts that hold the strainer are not allen key. I think I may a few sizes of allens but not that much. There's a youtube video that shows a guy having to use a 10mm socket ...I'm hoping that's all I need. I'll see if I can look through a Haynes or Chilton manual for my car and see if it specifies what size will be needed.
~J
I have never dropped the pan before, so I can't answer that question, sorry. In the past, I drained the pan, refilled with new fluid, then proceeded to disconnecting the cooler line for the flush. The drain plug for the pan is either requires normal sockets or an allen key socket.
Power Flushing, Fluid exchange, flush, etc-- different terms for the same thing. You will always get the most complete fluid exchange by draining the pan and refilling with new fluid prior to disconnecting the cooler line and starting the engine. On most Toyotas, you will be able to "pump" 2-3 quarts out of the cooler line before you will need to stop the engine and add more fluid. Forget about adding fluid while the old fluid is pumping out-- it's likely that you'll make a big mess if you don't have someone keeping an eye on the hoses. Plus on some cars, the old fluid pumps out too quickly for you to refill simultaneously.
Thx Critic,
I was thinking the same thing about that would make a lot of mess to flush and fill simultaneously. I'll give the method described a try. Good thing I am getting a good deal on the ATF. And I hope that the retaining bolts that hold the strainer are not allen key. I think I may a few sizes of allens but not that much. There's a youtube video that shows a guy having to use a 10mm socket ...I'm hoping that's all I need. I'll see if I can look through a Haynes or Chilton manual for my car and see if it specifies what size will be needed.
~J
Originally Posted By: PT1
Sounds like you are a bit jealous of your neighbors Lexus.
+2
Same sort of guy who tries to convince everyone his Shadow is a better value than a Road King.
Sounds like you are a bit jealous of your neighbors Lexus.
+2
Same sort of guy who tries to convince everyone his Shadow is a better value than a Road King.
- Status
Similar threads
