'02-LS1 T/A -1st oil anal/results, I'd like opinions (Patman, your opinion too!)

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Weezz

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Jan 29, 2003
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Location
South Alabama
The car:
2002 T/A - Collectors Edition; Build #2312 of #2390 produced.
GM Build Date: March 28, 2002; ASC Conversion Date: April 10, 2002
Purchased May 17, 2002 in San Antonio: #822 of only 839 Manual/T-Top C. E.
!Cags, Lou's short stick, BMR STB, Throttle Body Coolant Bypass, SLP TCS Logic Module, SLP Lid (1/25/03), Locking Fuel Cap (3/12/03), Mac Differential cover (4/19/03), Omex Sequential Shift light (5/10/03).
Area of operation is Corpus Christi (by the gulf), sandy/desert type area and HOT.

REPORT (Blackstone Labs)
MOBIL 1 10W-30 oil (no top off oil was added tho I did change oil filter @ 8000 mile mark )

MI/HR on Oil 4,900
MI/HR on Unit 9,900
Sample Date 7/24/2003
TBN 3.4

ALUMINUM 4
CHROMIUM 1
IRON 31
COPPER 106
LEAD 9
TIN 4
MOLYBDENUM 83
NICKEL 0
MANGANESE 2
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 128
SILICON 16
SODIUM 10
CALCIUM 3004
MAGNESIUM 22
PHOSPHORUS 891
ZINC 959
BARIUM 0

Tested Values
SUS Viscosity @210 F 59.9

Flashpoint 380

FUEL %
Antifreeze % 0

Water % 0

Insolubles % 0.4


Comments please?
 
I think its a good report. Insolubles are a little on the high side. Iron could be better but it's a new engine. Copper is normal for this engine. Why did you change filters?? Is the oil still in there. If so its good for a coupole of more K miles-for sure.

As usual the 10W-30 didn't shear down one iotta.
 
>Why did you change filters?? - I was going to run this oil for 6K miles and I thought it would be best to change the oil filter after 3K (1/2 of the way). I did this for two reasons.
1. the first filter was a long FRAM (I know they are bad, already had it and used it and will buy no more). At 8 k I changed it for a long Supertech (walmart brand).
2. I had to go on a 2200 mile trip and did not want to worry about changing the oil at the 6 grand mark (during the trip) so I changed it/took sample at 9900.
Put in Mobil 1 10W-30 and used a PF 59 filter and took my trip. Blackstone said I ran this oil too far and said next time to run it no more than 3500 miles. I will probably do that but after I'm sure the engine is completely broken in, I will probably return to the 6K interval with the oil filter change at 3 k.


QUOTE]Originally posted by Al:
I think its a good report. Insolubles are a little on the high side. Iron could be better but it's a new engine. Copper is normal for this engine. Why did you change filters?? Is the oil still in there. If so its good for a coupole of more K miles-for sure.

As usual the 10W-30 didn't shear down one iotta. [/QUOTE]
 
The report is not too bad for a relatively new engine, copper isn't as high as in some cases.

Iron is a bit higher than it should be, but lead isn't super bad. It should get better with the next interval.

I still stand by my belief that you'll see lower wear in the LS1 with a slightly thicker 10w30 though, like Amsoil or Redline for instance, both of which are almost 40wt oils.
 
Looks good. Condidering the engine is breaking in, it did a good job. You can't go wrong with M1 10w-30, by far there best oil IMO. All Mobil would have to do is thicken up there 0w,5w-30's a bit to about 11cSt's and they would meet the A3 Ht/Hs spec and be great choices for LS1 or any larger V8 with large clearances.

[ August 15, 2003, 09:08 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by buster:
Looks good. Condidering the engine is breaking in, it did a good job. You can't go wrong with M1 10w-30, by far there best oil IMO. All Mobil would have to do is thicken up there 0w,5w-30's a bit to about 11cSt's and they would meet the A3 Ht/Hs spec and be great choices for LS1 or any larger V8 with large clearances.
Click to expand...
Yep, I like this oil also for my 2k3 Max VQ engine. I also add about 3 ounces of #132 each oil change for the reasons you mention and feel I am getting all I want or need from an oil. I probably don't even need the #132 in this engine but like what Molakule and others have said about it.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:

I still stand by my belief that you'll see lower wear in the LS1 with a slightly thicker 10w30 though, like Amsoil or Redline for instance, both of which are almost 40wt oils.
Click to expand...
How about if I add one quart of Mobil-1 15W-50 to five quarts of the 10W-30?
 
quote:
How about if I add one quart of Mobil-1 15W-50 to five quarts of the 10W-30?
Click to expand...
Perfectly fine. The good thing about M1 is that you can mix them bc they all use the same chemistry.
 
Next oil change I will add at least one qt of the 15W-50 and do an analysis when I change it.
Right now I'm just running the 10W-30. I plan on getting this batch analyzed also.
As far as here, it may get below 50 for 2 days out of the year, lately here, considering the heat index, it hovers around 110 degrees. (usually its 90 by 6-7 AM)

Thanks Pat.
-Weez

quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
Adding one quart of 15w50, or even 2 quarts, might just do the trick. Since you're in Texas, cold weather performance shouldn't be a problem with this mix, but I wouldn't recommend doing it in other areas of the country once they get below 50 degrees. The oil will be a lot thicker when you first start it up in the morning even with just those 2 quarts of the thicker oil.

I'd really love to see you do a UOA to compare this one to one with a mix of the 15w50!
Click to expand...
 
Adding one quart of 15w50, or even 2 quarts, might just do the trick. Since you're in Texas, cold weather performance shouldn't be a problem with this mix, but I wouldn't recommend doing it in other areas of the country once they get below 50 degrees. The oil will be a lot thicker when you first start it up in the morning even with just those 2 quarts of the thicker oil.

I'd really love to see you do a UOA to compare this one to one with a mix of the 15w50!
 
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