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Odyssey (made by Enersys, who bought out Northstar) are made in Missouri, right here in the USA!

Torque it till it strips, then back off exactly one-eighth turn

Have used the local one to re-surface my truck's and then the wife's Audi. No complaints

Aside from the StayHard batteries, Northstar/Odyssey seem to be very good. My last battery had a cool feature built in - it was auto shut off. For example,if I forgot and left my lights on, as soon as the battery went completely dead, the lights would shut off automatically.

If you read through the thread, you will find multiple examples of proof: More than one person noticed a delay in oil pressure building up after start, where there was none before. Someone tested by blowing air through the hole and notice leaking. Someone did a smoke test and saw leaking. People...

On another board, someone has tested and discovered that the Wix filters being made now have a leaky ADBV, not the valve itself but the swaged metal disc that connects the mounting to the outer cannister https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/buick-oil-filters.381367/#post-3352618

Ok. So help me out. I've done some reading but there's a lot to absorb and it gets confusing. After break-in, what would be a good oil for my particular application? TIA

Side clearances were around .020"

Here is the car which is not finished. And the engine from last go round. Here is my YouTube with some videos of the pulls and initial start up: https://youtube.com/@scottmoody7413

I don't know for sure that base stock was at issue. But I do want to have the best chance for a positive outcome. So I am open to suggestions on the best path forward wrt oil

All other bearings looked fine.

What weight oil? We have the issue with these motors that hot oil is a two-fold problem. First, not only does the oil thin and viscosity go way down, but secondly the aluminum oil pump housing expands and increases the pump internal clearances. These engines will never survive at those oil...

Yes, back-grooved cam bearings are in per TA instructions. The block is a 76 and all oil mods were done (I wrote the article on George N's website about oil mods to the timing cover and filter adapter). I realized clearances were too much but decided to proceed as I didn't want any more delays.

Pulls were from 3500 to 6000 at 400 rpm per second. So looks like about 6 secs plus a few seconds at the start to stabilize. We would usually wait about 15 to 25 minutes between pulls to look at the data and make changes. But on the ones with super hot oil, there were only a couple minutes...

Does anyone have an info on Driven's synthetic oils with mPAO?

Yes, pre lubed with a drill motor and it read about 45 psi, kept it going for about 30 to 40 seconds. When it first fired up, pressure came right up

I did not realize it until just now reviewing the data, but the worst case oil temp was 230 deg F and oil pressure just made it to 50 psi.

There were a few pulls where pressure was below 60, and that was when the oil was hot. There were quite a few where it was 70

At 0.050" it's 236/244 deg., on 113 LSA, total lift is .617/.610"

I'm trying to keep it as stock looking as possible. With an accumulator I would have to run an external pump and all the hoses. I don't think I can hide that. The heads are TA Performance Stage 1 Street heads. They flow 325 cfm. The numbers are from an engine dyno and are at the flywheel numbers