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Per a recent PM on brake fluid, I'd look for these two: If you must have DOT 3 or DOT 4 based on the military tests (ACDelco has both flavors): ACDelco GMW Brake and Clutch Fluid for $4.98/quart: https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?mfr=ACDELCO&parttype=11389 What I use now for...

Glad you folks have found it useful. There are differences in that fluid that we likely take for granted.

@The Critic , thanks for that contribution. Finally shot a video on the fluid flush process with a pressure bleeder. This is the 2nd flush after doing the EV 3 years ago with the Bosch 5.1:

Perhaps more importantly is planning for two EV's vs one :) My point was that you need to consider your use case before spending a pile running new circuits. No one will ever complain though if you have more capacity than required!

How many amps you need for a charger has everything to do with your expected commute distance and winter weather. Let's assume you will charge at night when time of use in most areas means cheaper power. 20 amps at 220V will add about 12 miles (about 20km) range per hour of charging. Winter...

Mike Sanders Grease is a similar product requiring heating to 80C (very hot) to spray it and once cool (literally seconds) it is done…there is no drying time. It does last a long time under heavy wash conditions…like years. It also does creep a bit under summer hot sun conditions even a few...

C CRC is basically wax, with a few solvents. It's flammable during application and as far as I can tell, has zero actual corrosion inhibitors...it's a water displacer. Pretty much the same as Cosmoline. Noxudol 300/700 are wax based, are not flammable (no VOC) and do actually contain additives...

I think you just made a case for a CPC treatment that actively reacts with rust :-) That said, if you take a car from here (salt/sand/snow central), and take it to Arizona, the rate of corrosion would likely slow, or stop, in the absence of moisture, salt, etc. Usually the opposite is...

You did see my post above with pics after 3 years, yes? Your comments on wash off are 100% spot on...exactly what I see here. Also agree 100% on application as at least the hidden bits will have product in them. That said, nothing can withstand the sand blasting we see behind the wheels (it is...

@mattd , for sure post up some pics!

@doitmyself , finding a shop that takes the time to do it right is indeed half the battle as the franchise places honestly are crap. That was me doing the work in the LEAF thread, and ya..I did a few other projects with the car on the hoist :) Noxudol actually suggests treating any seam areas...

Both Krown and Rust Check wash off literally in 1-2 hours of driving in rain..at least from exposed areas of chassis. They are very thin, so do likely creep nicely in seams. That said, I don't use either of these vendors any more after numerous and repeated issues with application carelessness...

That sounds about right...but you'd want to make sure of a once yearly check for small touch ups on the chassis. Also a good idea to avoid rain if you can for 4-5 days. It takes me 6-8 hours on a car to do it properly. Material costs about $200.

In my CPC research, I was only interested in actual long term tests, and an analysis of the chemical composition. If it washes off easily, and/or is just thickened lanolin, not so interested. The litmus test was then actual use on vehicles, in salt and sand conditions along with demonstrated...

100%. I stopped using FF, Rust Check, Krown, etc. as they wash off far too easily. It would take 2 or more applications of these products yearly or more to provide protection. Rust Check is pretty much gone from any exposed surface after an hour driving in the rain. The reasons I use the Noxudol...

This is one of their long term tests I was able to find: http://www.mercasol.ru/uploaded/image/Pressa/Other/Rusttest%20Noxudol%20700%20Classic%20Monthly%20UK.pdf but again, Toyota and a number of other OEMS use this product in their recall campaigns.

We get -35 C, a lot of sand and salt. Nothing survives the sand/salt blasting in high wear areas, so yearly touch ups are essential. On washing, at least one fellow (who bolted coupons in his fenders coated with woolwax) actually had worse rust in the "test" fender as he washed the woolwax off...

The Noxudol 300 and 700 products do contain a few extra additives that are there specifically to control corrosion. This and the fact that they are waterborne (so low/no VOC) are likely why Toyota and a few other OEMs have used this product in their recalls related to corrosion...

They don't, but they should! Noxudol 300 is the black/heavier bodied partner to 700. I use those two exclusively now on our vehicles as the 300 is the only product that survives our salt/sand winters without washing off. I normally use about 200-300 ml of the 300 each fall for touch ups on...

There's also a question of efficiency at 120V. Most EVs will take 300 watts (and more if BMS calls for cooling the pack) or so to power the car's electronics while charging...so that's overhead regardless of 120V or 220V. If you charge for fewer hours, then you also incur less of that overhead...