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Thanks! For what it's worth I saw much less oil consumption with the Castrol 0w40 vs Mobil 0w40 in past (M113 V8's not M156) so I lean towards Castrol between the two. Appreciate all the insight!

thank you @RDY4WAR and @kschachn for the informative answers, appreciate it. @edyvw I'm still curious if you would choose the Castrol 0w30 over the 0w40/5w40 for this application? And for anyone else, how does the Mobil 1 0w30 stack up with the Castrol 0w30?

If I'm starting the cars above 30f does the winter rating play any factor for start up protection with 5w40 vs 20w50?

So mixing in your opinion is ok? Do you recommend sticking to one Manufacturer when doing so? I've done it many times to try and lower the viscosity a bit, like 10w30 and 20w50 VR1 in my C36. But I have also heard it can cause issues with chemical imbalances depending on the formulas?? Would...

I know HPL is probably fantastic, I remember when it first showed up on here and I'd love to try it, but running as many cars as I do, I have to be cost efficient and the price is quite high on HPL's oils. Deservingly so from what I see but still, not justifiable for my usage.

ZDDP is still at 1400 for the VR1 20w50's both conv and syn and 1100 for the 10w30's

Gotcha, thank you for the explanation, and I promise I am not trying to jump hoops lol, just merely gain further understanding. I haven't found any oil worth being loyal to truly, so I only care about finding something good at a good price typically. This engine, obviously requires a bit more...

Another few oils for consideration... What about Mobil 1 5w50? Much better than the 0w40 or 5w40? And what about Mobil 1 15w50?

what lead you to that theory?

NEVER good? Like ever, even before they changed formulas?? There is a surplus of very good looking T6 UOA's on the innerwebs' dating years back to current and from pretty much anything and everything you can imagine not just Subaru's... And again, a good buddy of mine and well known builder of...

so at what point does the HTHS rating become negligible? and which of the 0w40 and 5w40 have the highest HTHS? I wasn't aware of the bad wrap Rotella had gotten around here, too much of a good thing turned bad I guess. The VR1 options are really my only interest outside of just buying...

Thanks for the feedback guys, when I owned an M156 previously I used Rotella T6 5w40 or Redline 5w40. I just spoke with a friend who has been running T6 even with track use and he said his UOA's have been perfect on it. I'll likely go that route as it's always available on the shelf nearby. I...

I have not interest in confirmation bias, just sharing what I can find related to the scenario or have actually experienced in my own cars etc. I know it's not magic, and in reality I think a lot of the failures have to do with a poorly thought out or designed obsolescence 10k miles oil service...

I'm not looking to run this for more than 3k miles or 1 year which realistically because I share driving amongst different vehicles I only hit about 1500 miles annually.. I don't think oxidization would play much of a factor and I've seen inside the motors I have been using it in to know...

For reference, The VR1 20w50 has an HTHS of 4.8 according to @Cujet in this post here Attached is the VR1 20w50 conventional and synthetic data from Valvoline for comparison.

The HTHS of VR1 10w30 conventional according to a post on this forum by @joegreen "The High Temp/High Shear for the Valvoline SAE 10w30 VR-1 Racing Oil is 3.17." I haven't yet found the HTHS for The VR1 10w30 synthetic. Isn't oil with the cold/hot viscosities in a closer range less prone to...

Anyone out there that maybe be able to read these numbers with a finer eye then myself care to share if you think either of these VR1 10w30 offerings can match or exceed the performance of the 5w40 Euro? Asking with idea of use in Mercedes/AMG M156 engines, which I know most will just say...

I think the most valid point he made was that he, nor anyone else knows what will happen with it in the years to come. I would say for sure though, if it keeps dropping price, people will buy it back up in a swarm and restart the bull rush increasing it's value once again. How long this goes on...

If you grind and scrub down the rust then apply something like Rust Kutter, you can convert what you see. Then hit it with rust converting primer and white paint. Not gonna be perfect but will help. If you want to neutralize it for cheap for the time being you could use CRC marine corrosion...

I bought a 94' E420 last June for $2300 w/180k that had been sitting for the majority of two years prior... I have driven it as my main daily driver since with no fuss and minimal work. It doesn't even have 2nd gear (bought it that way knowing I would manual swap it) and it still doesn't care...