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Yeah, another SuperTech thread. Picked up a jug of ST 5W30 Full Syn a few days ago for my next oil change. Just wondering if it's still, after all these years, the same decent additive package. If it's trash, I'll take it back and peel off the extra coin for some Mobil 1 or something.

I have a 2007 Ford Five Hundred/Mercury Montego, FWD and 6 speed Aisin. 147,000 on the clock. I am experiencing a issue where I feel a light hesitation only when in a certain RPM range (1,000-1,300) and the engine is under load. For reference, this is around where I'd be driving in the 30-40...

I've been feeding my 322,000 mile Dodge Durango a diet of 5W30 PYB conventional with a Wix filter for the past year in an attempt to clean as much sludge as I can. I noticed now that Wal-Mart doesn't stock it any longer, and after investigating, evidently it's being phased out. So what's the...

I bought a Durango with a 4.7 V8 engine, with 322,000 miles. It had a very light tap-tap-tap noise when I bought it, thought it to be a lifter as they're notorious for failing in these engines. A few weeks ago I pulled the valve covers and replaced ALL of the lifters with Melling brand ones. I...

So I went with my gut and returned the GTX for Pennzoil 10W30 HM. Same price, but I know the Pennzoil has a proven track record of cleaning. I'm really unsure just how much sludge/build up is in there, and I think gently removing it over time will be best. Dropping the oil pan is time consuming...

320K

Yes. It isn't heavy, but there's a bit under my valve covers, mostly building around bolt heads.

2003 Dodge Durango 4.7

I see that PYB is always mentioned when discussing cleaning sludge. What about Castrol GTX? Is it as good or comparable? Or should I go with PYB?

About to do a timing set service and have noticed some mixed reviews about the Cloyes brand of timing components. What was once the top dog company now seems to be succumbing to the lure of Chinese manufacturing. Is this true? I paid about $150 more for a Cloyes kit than what I could have bought...

2003 Dodge 4.7 V8, 320,700 miles. At 180-185 operating temperature, I'm seeing about 18-19 PSI idle. While driving normally (1700-1750 RPM) I'm seeing about 50 PSI. When the trans kicks out of OD to climb a hill or something, the oil pressure will come to to about 60 PSI as the RPM increases...

I'm replacing some AC system components on my 2003 4.7 Dodge Durango with rear Heat/AC controls. I have already replaced the expansion valve and drier. Now I am replacing the compressor. I am unsure of what is the proper amount of R134a to charge the system with. I am also unsure of what...

Tried that. With and without heat. Broke the EZ out off in the drilled hole.

Wrenching on my 2003 Durango 4.7L, and I'm replacing exhaust manifold gaskets. The driver's side manifold came off easy with ZERO bolts breaking off. I was able to replace the gasket on that side easily. The passenger side is a different story. It's being a royal pain in the butt. I've been...

Replacing upper control arms in my 2003 Durango. I understand that the bushings should be tightened with some weight on the suspension. As I have the wheel off - access is substantially easier. I have jackstands supporting the front side I'm working on, so could I theoretically just place a...

I will be replacing exhaust manifold gaskets soon and I'm unsure if this is something I should attempt myself, or leave it to a professional shop. I'm worried about breaking/stripping the hardware when removing everything. I've never done any exhaust work before, but I understand breaking...

I think right now I'm just going to run this "flush" oil change (no additives, cheap Rural King 10W 30) and see how the drain plug looks after a few miles. I cleaned it off spotless, so I'll be able to tell if anything is on there again. I have a can of Restore, but haven't used it yet. The...

After reading about Restore and AutoRX, I'm a little torn on what I should pour into my 320,000 mile Dodge 4.7. A few days ago I dumped an entire can of Seafoam into the crankcase and let it run for about a minute. Then I went for a couple mile drive. Drained the oil (it was BLACK!), refilled...

I have a suspicion that my 4.7 Dodge engine may have some gunk/sludge/debris/whatever in the oil pickup tube. It may not, but I'm taking no chances. The pan is a pain to remove, especially without a lift and working in the gravel driveway. So ideally I'd like to attack this with the pan ON...

Originally Posted by Rhymingmechanic Here's a kit to do what I'm talking about. Click on the customer image. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Derale/D13030.html Wow. That is cool! I think that's the route I'll go. No cutting, just adapt and install. Thanks so much for the idea!