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The dealer won't do anything. They'll brush it off as not a big deal and tell you just change the oil more frequently and have them do it since they use the "good" oil.

It doesn't work.

What year truck? Old trucks often have a belt driven fan. If so, replace it with an electric thermostatic fan

I'm running conventional 10w-40 in my 2.0 Impreza. Yeah it lost a little pep but it's quiet now.

He needs to call all the local news outlets to get a story pumping. If it was me I'd be screaming at the dealer so loud they would fix it just to shut me up.

Run 5w-30. The Subaru will prefer it

Wd40 would be far less likely to wash oil from the cylinder walls. I'd personally use fogging oil but wd40 isn't a bad choice.

Run marine 2 stroke, TCW3. It burns with lower ash than normal 2 stroke.

Studied exercise physiology in college - most people have no clue how significant ergonomics are on everything in life. It's like a placebo effect on steroids

That, I did. However I stand by my point.

You all are looking past a super simple solution. Take the Motorcraft oil, store it somewhere cool and dry. Run Dexos oil thru the warranty period. Switch to Motorcraft when warranty is up. Really we need to stop making things hard on ourselves. This is trivial.

Personally I'd use an HDEO 10w-30 conventional. There's a guy on YouTube, Mr. Subaru, who owns one of these. He has plenty of videos on maintaining it. If you ask him he'll probably answer on his oil choice.

Whatever the door jam sticker says for tire pressure, go 5 psi over that. No, you will not hurt the tires. The day I got my Subaru I inflated the tires to 40 psi (door sticker says 32) and at 60k miles the tires still had even wear.

If the customer has cash flow issues, they picked the wrong vehicle.

His titles are often silly clickbait but his content is actually decent.

I cease to believe the boil-off theory for GDI engines. Anyone have any concrete research? The cars in Europe are super different than here. They are still making manual transmissions. Speed limits are generally lower, Autobahn aside. The goal is lower fuel consumption not zero-tailpipe...

Varnish, probably not. Accumulated ick, potentially. If you're super duper sludged or varnished you need something stronger. Kreen, BG44K, Valvoline Premium Blue Restore, something potent like that. But a few short oil changes can get the superficial crap out and get you back on track in some cases.

I'm not talking UOA came back questionable. I'm talking, you ran too thin an oil for your application and have a strong indication it did damage.

Option 3.5. Tell them they can buy it back and save themselves a ton of hassle or you'll lemon law it and force their hand. Call corporate and complain if they don't take you seriously. Dealers hate when they get informed of a complaint to corporate.

Oil burning is not acceptable. Period. Anything more than a trivial trace amount is unacceptable.