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I’m trying to diagnose my 2008 ML320 variable displacement compressor. I think the control valve is likely shot. But Denso literature gave some interesting insights: This collectively implies that a long-sitting compressor could entrap enough liquid refrigerant inside that the compressor...

I don’t think I could ignore it terribly long because I like my AC!!

My 2008 ML320 diesel had a fine running ac system. I didn’t use it for a few months and now the AC isn’t coming on. In the past it had occasionally been sluggish to start, but then it would run perfect. The compressor has 206k miles. Static charge is perfect. I checked with gauges. This...

Interesting, I have used the rubber cleaning block I found in my shop. Maybe I’ll take a piece of hardwood and just press and sand to try to fracture. I’ve been avoiding pressure to let the grit do the work. But anymore it doesn’t work. Yeah I read that but it doesn’t really answer my...

It cut like crazy, almost too fast, until it didn’t. I don’t press down, I just try to get it to set down fast (can be hard to do on the leading edge). Do you finish with a criss-cross or just let it be straight lines?

Cool Gard II is great stuff and an improvement on most coolants. IIRC it is closer to G-05, which is also related to/comparable with G-48.

The tire didn’t mean to do it. Some human was the cause.

Maybe it is a waste but it worked, albeit slowly. And was much more forgiving than the ceramic. Was so easy to bite too much out of stuff that shouldn’t have been sanded. I have another 60/80/120 grit ceramic set. I don’t know what kind of ceramic it is. But it didn’t last. That’s the...

(Continued) As compared to another cylinder: Maybe it’s just too much to think about, or doesn’t really matter. So: 1) is that 0.011” going to be an issue given everything I’m showing? 2) is that erosion at the one cylinder manifold hole going to be an issue for sealing and/or future...

Hope I’m nearing the end on all this. Not sure if I am. First, the irregularity. Everything is better than 0.006” except this one spot which is more like 0.012”: What is good enough for a gasket like this: I could keep going after it on both sides and addressing the high points I get...

I’ve been dealing with a 6x48 belt sander that I got lightly used from FB marketplace. It came with some unknown 80 grit belt on it. I’d been using it to grind a cast iron exhaust manifold as discussed here...

To an extent it seems like use it or lose it applies. But an injury or underlying factor may affect that of course. My grandfather was changing oil into his 90s. It’s my hope to do the same. But you never know what hand you’re dealt.

I’m running oe plastic fan on some of my old turbodiesels. They reduce the load compared to the metal ones, and are easier on the fan clutch. Some stuff goes bad, some doesn’t. I wouldn’t be terribly concerned with quality plastic parts that aren’t wetted with coolant.

It’s not a hand held, it’s a 6x48 machine on a stand. Machine shops have bigger versions of what I have. Here’s an example: I kept working it, using Prussian blue on my surface plate. Surprisingly, it indicated that the high points were around the end cylinders, despite the warp putting...

FWIW the gasket looks like this:

@Trav hoping you can help me to know when to stop. I put the Empire Abrasives 120 grit on the sander. It cuts way, way more aggressively than whatever Chinese used 80 grit was on the machine when I got it. It would have been great to have this when I started working g on the surfaces. To...

Just another bigger thing to have. But it is the right way if you need it. I just refilled a few times.

Sell it to me, I’ll come get it immediately. I’ve lived the dream of removing turbo oil lines and getting leaks at those points after putting it together. Oil drain tubes are also notorious.