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Is it safe for my NGV's to double the mileage for oil change from 3K miles to 6K miles using dino oil or it is better to change it as usual (3K miles) due dino oil loosing it's lubricating additives?

Thanks for all the great suggestions OCI's once a year will only cost me only $45 (DIY cost of M1+filter)and the workshop have been charging me $73 X twice a year--I get to save $100 a year. Wow, if I can drag that for 2 years I get to save $247 and that work shop have been billing $247 for...

Since car can’t be driven at more than 3,000 rpm within the city and the oil is changed every six month (less that 1 K), I guess it won't make much difference if there is a bit less oil in the engine:) The original bmw manual didn’t state how much is needed for each oil change—just mention...

I manage to find the original manual stating that between the low and full mark on the dip-stick is 1 liter, OK I believe that the dip-stick show 10% less than full due to the new oil filter taking up some of it. Hey guys! Thanks for all the suggestions

I will have to pay double buying 2 pack or pay 25% extra just to buy another 1 liter. Hummmm... People are strange including myself but this 5 liters thing have been bothering me for years but then I didn’t have "BOBISTHEOILGUY" …. after this posting, I believe I can at least get on with life...

My 1990 turbo 520i bmw using synthetic 10/50w since new and have clocked 300,000 KM the car is now being used for short slow daily drive and does less than 2,000 miles per year with oil change twice a year. Engine oil are sold in 4 liters pack where I live, I was thinking that perhaps it is OK...

Which comes to no more than 5K miles per year. It would take 20 years to get to the 100K mark!> My 1990 520i BMW torbo with oil air-cooler clocked 300,000 KM based on above conditions, used M1 5/50wt day one after 10,000 KM run-in, engine/electrical zero problem till date. The amazing thing...

Thanks Jim Good suggestion.

1. I have a 1990 turbo BMW 520i with oil cooler, no oil losses and using synthetic when new after 10,000 KM run-in 2. 5 liters oil and oil filter change alternate between M1 5/50w and Shell 15/50w every 6 months irregardless of mileage 3. Have clocked 300,000 KM and is currently being used for...

The oil bath filter oil in my old 1500 stock vw bug remains clear and clean even after a year and thousands of miles of driving. I am using 20/50w multigrade oil in the oil bath and the oil bath temperature after warm-up is 140/160 F Could the oil stay clean because… 1. The air is cleaner...

I look analyze all the aspect of every suggestions, thanks guys!

Good suggestions ediamiam thanks!

Yes, looking to increase fuel economy plus a couple more HP bonus UOA over here? Man-O-man, don't forget I am still in the second world but definitely not third...LOL "Currently I am using Castro dino 20/50..." Isn't he dead yet Sorry, I am having a real problem getting that oil brand...

True in your case but where I live we don't get "what you call that"--wind chill factor therefore even when the car sit overnight the engine stay warm.

How do you explain this: "...when I was using dino straight 40wt HD oil on my 40 year old bug engine it took 45 seconds for it idle steadily (without using the choke), 25 seconds when I switch to 20/50 wt..." Anyway straight weight HDEO available in my country is for diesel engines and nothing...

What will happen if I make a switch from 20/50wt engine oil to 10/30wt for my 40 year oil street drive 1500 air cool bug? Currently I am using Castro dino 20/50 wt daily drive to work 25 KM (one way, 50% highway) with 180 F oil temperature (when outside air 80 F) and 195 F (outside air 92 F)...

You are right, there is no reason to use straight weight but Rm60 ($16.20) for 4 liters 15w40 is way to expensive, I could buy them directly from the dealer; $6.70 for 4 liters Castro dino 15/40wt or 20/50wt but I usually buy them for $3.20 per 4 liters from my friendly office next door mechanic...

We only get quality premium 92 RON unleaded gas here for $1.50 per gal and $1.66 for Shell V-power. That’s right, it is for the transmission, anyway the manual recommended 90wt but it was written 40 years ago; I don’t use it for the engine oil

How important is multi-grade oil to cars owners in hot and humid tropical countries (85F day/78F night)? When it won't even takes 10 minutes for the oil to reach 180 F operating temperature – seems to be that the oil companies are taking everyone for a ride where I live. Currently, we have M1...

Since they have gone to such great trouble to prove something, they should have first open the engine and certify the piston/ring and any other parts that is within certain tolerance AND THEN after the no oil drive, strip open the engine again and measure the same parts for wear… that’s the only...