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So since the fluid is sucked first through the transmissions internal filter then passed through the cover, which is where a remote filter would be mounted. What's the point of it? Seems the fluid would be filtered before it gets filtered I may or may not look into installing one. Want to see...

Anyone ran with the edge 0w30 euro formula and been able to compare it to the od syntec 0w30? How do the two compare?

Trying to get a feeler here. Had my oil pan and timing cover off, replaced oil pump while I was in there. New gaskets, new metal parts. I realize this will vary a bit from vehicle to vehicle, but what's a good waiting period for silicon, break in wear metals, etc to sort themselves out?

Been using a mos2 additive regularly for the last 40k miles on account of some better UOAs and, well, I'm the guy that splits hairs like that. Dropped my pan down to do some maintenance and I found this rather thick sludgy stuff at the bottom of the pan. Not a lot, maybe a couple teaspoons...

So, I've always gone by the book as far as which oil grade to use. At least hot. I'll tweak a 5 to a 0 and use 0w20. But that's about it. The only exception to that being A. If there's a compelling reason to change as a result of objective tests, or B. The manufacturer backspecced oil like Ford...

I read from a couple forums and videos that too high of oil pressure causes bearing erosion in the engine. Something akin to a high pressure water jet cutter My first though is that it was a load of bunk. Main bearings operate in the 4000psi range. I can't see even 250-300 psi causing any harm...

So, there are a pretty wide variety of coolant formulations out there. With different pros/cons of each, and a different availability due to the level of tech and research available at the time a vehicle was manufactured I'm just going to start a list, I figure we can pull the hivemind...

I have a bottle of 1.5 micron MoS2 laying around. I use it as a dry lubricant for firearms and door hinges. Just curious if this is fine enough to add to motor oil? And if so, how would I go about dosing it? I use LM's mixture right now, but I figure if I could save a few bucks than why not.

Without regard to power or drag, which would give the greatest service life of a differential? I've been running through it in my head and can think of a bunch of pros and cons. But I figured I'd ask the oil nerds 2005 Chevy Tahoe, G80 rear diff. Factory suggests an 75w90. But these things...

It would be nice to have likes on posts. Something that allows us to draw attention to, or acknowledge good information without necessarily clogging up the thread by quoting

Just thinking. Vehicles spec'd for Xw30 are a result of bearing tolerances, no? Newer vehicles can use Xw20 due to tighter internal tolerances Race and higher performance vehicles use a higher flow oil pump on account of larger bearing tolerances. So, would it not then serve to reason that...

We've all heard the 'conventional' wisdom that most of your wear occurs on startup. But is it really that bad? We've been running hybrids for over a decade now and I've not seen any higher rate of engine failures in hybrid vehicles that consistently start/stop

Looks attractive at first glance for my application, being that my car sits for a while between starts. I'm a little apprehensive, however, of almost anything that claims it leaves a coating for fear of it building up over time. Had anyone used this long term? Are these concerns valid or is it...

Have an '05 Tahoe that sits for a while and gets one [censored] of a dry start if I con't crank it for a few seconds before starting it. Been trying to find an electric prelube kit for it but all I find are the cheesy canister units which IMO are tremendously overpriced for what you get anyway...

Stumbled across a select fire switch for glock "airsoft" pistols on amazon. Just a reminder not to buy the thing cause it sure ain't for airsoft. http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/09/14/want-to-make-your-glock-full-auto/

I'm trying to evaluate if it would be practical or even feasible to convert my rig to flex fuel (2005 Tahoe w/ 5.3). I've tried searching and got answers ranging from different injectors (32lb vs 26lb) and the associated reflash to different fuel pumps, soft lines, gas caps, and fuel composition...

I have a question that's been on my mind for a while now. You have these additives that rely on suspended particles to reduce wear numbers. But what I don't understand, is how do these fine particles, particularly in ceratec (since ceramic is pretty hard), not act as a microabrasive against soft...

I normally use an amsoil EAO64 with my oil changes. Well they're getting harder to find since my local Napa is under new ownership and no longer works with Amsoil as a distributor. I ended up getting another filter - one of the K&N wrench off things. I'm pretty disappointed with the performance...

I use mothballs to keep the critters out from under my hood and around the car. Just wondering if the material in it - naphthalene - would cause any harm to the plastic bits or wiring long term? I couldn't find anything one way or another