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Originally Posted By: hate2work It might be Warren Oil, have you looked on the back of the bottle? I'm not sure a 20 wt oil is the best for the climate in Texas, you might want to go with a 30 wt~ Nothing on the bottle indicated to me who the maker is. My Hemi doesn't have MDS, but 5w20 (in...

I'm putting some in my '04 Durango 5.7, and was wondering who makes it. I couldn't find much info on it, nor a UOA. Thanks!

You wouldn't if you put them on a Dodge or a GM. Talking specifically about the 02s, but generally about any of the engine sensors, use OEM!

It's tough to find someone that knows the 4L60E well enough to rebuild it. Having been in the Impala SS ('94-96) community for a long time, we've seen that for every shop that can build one right, there are hundreds that can't. These cars weigh almost as much as the Yukon, and we've got guys...

Generally speaking, manually shifting your auto won't hurt anything, if you're doing it at relatively sane RPMs. In other words, shifting yourself when the trans would have anyway. Holding gears to higher RPMs could accelerate wear on your internal and your gas card. Manually downshifting early...

The early 4.6s are known for their valve seals leaking in a very bad way. They can eat a BUNCH of oil!

Acceleration, cornering, and braking that is above the majority of the other cars on the road. I hate low-performance drivers more than low-performance cars, though!

P.S. I've had the front and rear of the truck in my sig on the Rhino ramps. There's not many heavier pickup trucks out there, except for a diesel.

If you want to do it like a pro, you'll need to buy a lift!

Grey Rhinos (12k), as mentioned. I've seen even lowered cars that could drive on.

Does that one have platinum plugs, or Champion coppers? I worked at a Dodge dealership a couple of years ago. Most come with Champions, good for 30k miles give or take. I've seen them throw check engine lights at 35k for misfires due to plugs alone. I would go back with stocker Champions, if...

In a 5 mile radius, I can choose from 3 Autozones, an Advance Auto Parts, a NAPA, and an O'Reilly (note spelling ) Auto Parts. I usually choose the O'R, as they generally have better staff, and they'll price match if someone has it cheaper across the street.

I used clear 5-minute epoxy on the inside of a headlight lens that was busted (it was a glass lens with a small rock hole). It sealed it well, but turned just a little yellow. It beat $180.00 for a new headlight bucket.

Agreed.

I won't! Any oil that the LSx based engine likes, yours will like. I would pick mine based on UOAs from others in a like climate to yours.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm The PSI numbers in the links I gave are specific to those engines being tested. You can get the numbers for YOUR engine in a Chilton or Haynes manual for your car. You probably won't need them, though, as with a big problem like yours, they...

It's very easy, cheap, and you'll own the tool when you're done. 1. Buy a compression tester. Maybe $25-30 at any auto parts store. 2. (Preferably on a warm engine) Pull all the spark plugs out. 3. Disable the fuel and the spark, usually by pulling the fuel pump relay, and unplugging an ignition...

I saw an AZ commercial here, but it was in Spanish.

Are both radiator hoses that run from the engine into the firewall hot? If they're both hot, you have a control problem with the blend door under the dash. If, when the engine is at operating temp and the heat is on, one of the hoses is not very hot, then the heater core is plugged and you need...

I never turn rotors. Either they are in good enough shape to use as-is, or they get replaced. Modern rotors generally don't have enough metal, and will go under spec shortly after being turned anyway.