Search results

Why use a fast sampling voltmeter when I have a Midtronics charging system tester at the shop. I am, after all, a dealership mechanic. At last test, I was above 11 volts during cranking. I was honestly surprised by that, as it's the no-name battery that was in the car when I bought it, but...

The diodes are on the back, outside the case. The stator windings poke through the case to connect. Measurements are taken from there. Everything checks out when cold, can't really properly check in vehicle due to location (and the presence of a plastic cover which prevents everything shorting...

I absolutely get what you're saying and I would be right there with you if not for the fact that the stock alternator doesn't exhibit this issue with the current load and I haven't added what will eventually be my extra loads, so they can't be a contributing factor at this point. Certainly good...

Also of note, AC/ripple on the DC output is measuring between 40 and 90mV currently. According to service data, 300mV is allowable. I believe this rules out the diode stack. I also just looked up the wiring diagram for this vehicle (which I should have done from the start and saved myself a lot...

Thank you for the reply. In the meantime, I ruled this out, actually, and gathered some more useful information. I have a few spare GM 4 pin connectors, one of which happened to be keyed correctly. Using one of these connectors, I made a pigtail with a 194 bulb soldered inline and connected one...

What would cause an alternator to become a *load* on the electrical system at idle? Some backstory: When I bought my Lumina at the end of 2019, I also purchased a 220A alternator for it. On a cold start, and at or above 1500 RPM it appears to work fine. Once everything warms up, at idle I see...

Sounds like there is money to be made there. If I had the garage space and funds for it, it'd probably be me.

More info on the company that now owns Kano Labs: https://www.lubesngreases.com/lubereport-americas/equity-firm-acquires-kano-labs/ Considering that Mechanix and K&N both still sell direct, I'd say their claim of leveraging insights gained from those companies is purest bull$#!+. Kano used to...

And that's the thing... technically they're not raising prices. The price they quoted me over the phone for a quart of Kreen is the price I paid when I bought it 3 years ago, they just won't sell to *me* for that price unless I buy 3 quarts to bring it up over $100, at which point a gallon is...

Yup, Kroil is the $#!+ for sure. Fortunately, that's still available from any number of distributors, including Amazon. I just hope these new investors don't ruin the company. It seems they're on the way to doing that.

Yeah, unfortunately parts are in short supply right now and a lot of common ones require that we have the vehicle present in the shop for diagnosis or a repair appointment scheduled in order to even be able to place an order. Don't be too hard on the dealership over it, it's an FCA Stellantis...

Well hell... I might make a bulk buy after all. I wonder how big of a bottle I can ship for cheap, legally...

Yes, I called them directly. They literally said "we do not sell to individuals" immediately followed with a $100 minimum order policy (and quoting me a price just over $110 for a gallon of Kreen), implying that they do, in fact, sell to individuals. However, for that price plus shipping, I can...

Thanks, TheLawnRanger, I did check them out and with tax and shipping it's well over $50 for 1qt. If I'm gonna do that, Kano will sell me a gallon for about double that, but I'm trying not to spend an arm and a leg when I only really need 8oz of the stuff. At that pricing, though, I can just...

Recently tried to order a quart of Kreen and it seems Kano Labs had been bought by investors and they seem to now only sell to distributors and cannot point me to a distributor who actually orders Kreen from them. I even called several of the local distributors (all of those who sell to the...

Yeah, if anything were able to make THAT much contact with that part, I don't think thre'd be much engine left. At least, if there was, the issue would be obvious without even dropping the oil pan.

Never saw more of your reply than: *** You are ignoring this user *** Toggle the display of this post Thread unfollowed.

Originally Posted by MolaKule I am simply asking some valid questions as to how you arrive at your declarations. You ask how I came to a conclusion, quoting where I explicitly state that I've not come to any conclusions (that's what inconclusive means). When called out on it, you trim the quote...

Originally Posted by MolaKule Just curious as to how you determined Mobil 1 "bowed-out": after three months of service? BTW, I am no particular fan of Mobil 1. 3k mile UOA. Just happened to coincide with the 3mo mark as well. Originally Posted by MolaKule Another question: If the oil degrades...

No, I'm fine with that and thank you for chiming in. What I take issue with is the SAME person posting the SAME opinion REPEATEDLY throughout the thread. Or people who just go into every additive thread to post negativity because they don't like additives in general. Notice how I welcomed...