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Not to necrothread, but what about the Toyota transfer cases with center differentials(Sequoia, Lexus GX, Land Cruiser) that are full-time 4wd and cannot be put in 2wd. In other words, the center differential is working all of the time. Would 75W-90 still be ok in these? Normally I would just...

This is what i just put in. I had one from a while ago before I went to a 180F tstat And it solved the issue of getting to hot. I was hitting 229F on hills with the Motorad. I havent seen over 200F yet with the stant

They are still jack asses because they said they got one and even put the Motorcraft part number on the invoice. My biggest concern is what coolant they used and if its comparible with the Motorcraft yellow. For all I know its HOAT or some other stuff

So i had to have the ecoboost in my 2014 F150 replaced. They put in “Maxlife 50/50 Antifreeze” according to the invoice and some random thermostat. Well i noticed after getting the truck back that it was running hot so i called and they said they would replace the t-stat with a motorcraft...

You seem very invested in this subject. My original post was a playful jab but you took it extremely seriously. Get over it.

3 mpg isnt just from hauling though. That would be like continuous WOT for this engine.

T6 5W-40 for my Legacy GT I just put Delvac 1300 15W-40 in my 4Runner

Is my point wrong? The hemi has been around since the early 2000's and yet here we are. This isn't a thread about GM or Ford is it? I never claimed they were perfect but at least their current engines push the envelop and have an excuse for having issues.

PP Euro L still is SN. That’s actually what I ran last change. But i dont like thats SN. I abuse this truck. It sees sustained 240+F coolant temps routinely in the summer towing. Ive warped two sets of exhaust manifolds towing into 20+ mph headwinds on 95F+ days. Just want a stout oil.

So just an update. I had also bought two one quart containers which were in a separate shipment and just showed up 5 minutes ago, and guess what: API SP 😂

The issue is not that it has a turbo. its that its a mopar with a turbo. If they can't even get a port-injected pushrod iron block V8 to be ridiculously reliable than what chance do we have for a GTDI to work? :ROFLMAO:

That the chain is stretched and the chain tensioner is having trouble engaging the chain tight enough. It first starts as cold start rattle but eventually it gets to the point that the drivers side cams will throw codes because they cannot hit the timing that is desired since they are at the end...

There are a few 0W and 5W-40 Euro oils on Walmart's site showing API SP. PP Euro 0W and 5W-40 both do. And then allegedly this QS Euro is supposed to be.

I thought they had some additional testing around timing chain wear and LSPI in API SP, both of which are issue relevant to a 1st gen 3.5L Ecoboost like mine. Especially the timing chain wear. My F150 is about to hit 100k miles in the next week or so and I have absolutely zero signs of chain...

Looks like April 2021.

It has not been available locally at all. Its even been hit or miss on the Walmart website which kinda surprises me that it would be the old stock. If they are selling out of it then where are the old bottles coming from :ROFLMAO: But to you point, if the Euro certs are more stringent then is...

So I ordered QS Euro 5W-40 from Walmart for my F150 Ecoboost because of the API SP rating, however, what I got was the older QSUD Euro 5W-40 which is API SN Plus The UPC code is the same as the newer stuff. Does anyone know if the oil is the same? And if not, should I just run it anyways?

The pennzoil and Castrol will just about fill it. I may need 1/2 a quart of the mobil. I think the GX is 8.5 qts with filter

So they don't run Amsoil Signature?

I’ve got this fine selection of oils laying around that probably wont get used otherwise: The Supertech and Mobil are SP, Castrol is SN+, and PUP is SN. I can probably get rid of most of this oil in my Lexus GX460 next change but wanted to get the consensus about mixing.