If you're trying to decide between the 4600 and 5100's make sure and contact Bilstein first. In a lot of cases, if you're not doing any height adjustment the 4600's are valved the same as the 5100 and will save you some $$.
Well....
I bought some closeout air filters and cabin air filters for the Honda Cousins..... I don't think I'm getting them any time soon.
For reference, I'm near Athens, GA.
This x10000
The '1/2 Ton' market is littered with 'trucks' that aren't anything more than a 4 door sedans with an open trunk. You have to shop very carefully if you actually want one that is capable of doing 'truck stuff' (IE Hauling and towing). The market is littered with trucks with...
I'm not sure where Honda lost the plot with the TL's. Pretty much 100% of the dashboards crack. My 2003 Accord, same basic platform, different dash design, you'd assume made of similar materials.....no cracks pretty much ever.
I've got the one Rockauto sells. I THINK it was the 'sedona suede' in black...its been a few years though. Does a decent enough job for me. I've seen other people use the coverlay one that is a bit more plastic/close fitting.
With rotors this cheap I would throw those right in the trash and replace them and give the whole system a once over, front to back. Lube the pins, flush the fluid.
I've used the guys over at
https://www.tpms.com/2015-Ford-F350-Super-Duty-TPMS-s/6660.htm
They actually beat most other vendors when I was looking for a set for my Ranger a few years back. I did the same thing as you and spent all kinds of time looking into what I could use and then just...
Never would have thought about that.
Looks like I'll be trying a project on my CC in the near future. It steers fine, but the roller wheel bearings have my interest.
Don't forget to back up important things before you mess with it.
That way it will work 100% of the time.
If you don't take a backup, it will fail.
Least...that's how it would work if I were doing it. Murphy loves me.
If that's all you have, then have at it.
No need to go out and get anything special for just that, unless you have a higher power tool handy. A die grinder would make short work of it.
Could always put hands on a piece of square tubing that the main shaft will fit inside of and make a sleeve. Cut the shaft in half, drill some holes, use bolts or pins to make it completely removeable.
Won't matter if base stocks can't get here in a timely fashion and that is tied to more than just the price per barrel. Pearl GTL is still many months out from being fixed.
FWW Valvoline Restore and Protect is still at the same price on their direct site. Granted, the 5qt was always higher there.
$39.99 without the platinum discount. Still showing all grades in stock, even in the 20qt boxes.
Yeeep, stupid dumb simple. This is supposed to be a parts list:
I'd run whatever I had laying around in the garage. Maybe avoid heavier gear oils since all that will do is cause increased drag on the motor and more fuel consumption.....but, oil, use some kind of oil.
Shouldn't be much in there other than an eccentric shaft and a couple of roller bearings (or flat bushings). As long as there is oil in it, it probably doesn't matter a whole lot of what is in it. As long as it doesn't foam up and blow out the seal you'll be golden.